desperado

Question concrening the dash. Are you going to stay with a computer motor or go carbs and shit? Reason I ask is this. If you are going balls out race car, cut the harness out, and start unbolting shit till it's out. Then rewire the car for escentials. Lights, ignition, fuel pump, charging system (yes my alternator field is on a switch, its' work 10 HP at the wheels) cooling fans and the sort. It's a damn site easier to rewire like that, than it is to try to figure out what goes where in the factory harness and its worth a considerable weight savings.

Are you needing a smaller carb?? I have several 650's both Holley and Edelbrock (Weber design) that I would be willing to swap you if you are needing something smaller.

Iron Duke, wire throttle wide open, drain oil and water from motor and fire it up. After about 3 days it should develop a knock. Refill fuel tank. Running at max RPM for another 2 days should do it in.

that's fine

Last time to the top. I need this thing gone. call me or PM me or what ever.

check your vacuum lines coming in from the motor into the control, I bet it's broken or plugged

Century, unless you are going to be doing production work and want to spend a fortune for no reason, I would go with a Century. I have had mine for some time, and had a big pro MIG welder too. I sold the big one and kept the Century. They have built battery changers and other power supplys for a very long time and that is really all a welder is. The MIG gun they use is a Tweco, which is a very recognized name in the welding industry. If you want, stop by and take a look at mine. I Think you will be impressed.

I know what you mean. The camaro I have I traded all MY RC stuff for a few years back. 12 cars, everything from a MicroRS4 gas to a USA1 and a 70 MPH pan car. I know about the money these things eat. What sort of trade are you looking to make? Is there something that you are looking to get?

I know what you mean. The camaro I have I traded all MY RC stuff for a few years back. 12 cars, everything from a MicroRS4 gas to a USA1 and a 70 MPH pan car. I know about the money these things eat. What sort of trade are you looking to make? Is there something that you are looking to get?

I got a remote Helicopter if you are intersted in looking at it.

I got a remote Helicopter if you are intersted in looking at it.

Yes it would. And even if the circuit was wired correctly, with a resistor in the line before the diode, it would generate a ton of heat. The resistor would also need to be huge as far as wattage rating. It would need to be able to sink 5 amps at 145 volts 5X145=725 Watt resistor. If you could find such a thing it would be ridiclously expensive. I can't think of a voltage regulator that will allow you to have that sort of input to output ratio either. I would sugjest that you have a seperate power supply for the 5 volts. I will be MUCH easier to do that. If you are talking about your alternator welder, take some of the AC from the windings, before it's rectified and put a transformer on it and step it down. Then rectify it. Problem with that is that transformers are designed to work at 60 HZ. An alternator will vary frequency be the RPM it's spinning, so the output voltage will rise very fast, and the current draw may be rather high at higher frequencies as well.

I do. Bring it out

Yeah, it's a common misconception that more Octane equals more power, that is really not the case. It quite the opposite. Here's why. With the removal of TEL (tetraethel lead) from pump gas, the additives that raise the Octane rating of the fuel now are aromatic solvents, like touene, xylene, and acetone. These solvents have a very low boil point, low flash point and fast burn rate. The reason that we DON'T want this is simple, these additives burn fast, the more you compress them, the faster they burn. The motors we have, unless someone out there is running a F-1 motor in their car that turns 13 grand, have piston travel rates that are not fast enough to make a complete stroke before these additives are burnt off. At that point, the piston is not being pushed down by the expansion of the gases burning in the cylinder. So, in order for these very high octane fuels to work, they either need to burn slower, or there needs to be alot more of it burnt so it will burn longer. This of course means drastic reduction in MPG. Extreem example is nitromethane, while not an aromatic solvent it does show what I am talking about. Nitro in reality does not burn in a fuel car it litterally explodes, but there is SO much of it that the explosion is sustained for the entire downstroke of the piston and then some. If Nitro is looked at chemically it is 53% oxygen by content, this means that it WILL support it's own compustion it an oxygen free envrioment, that's why it was used as rocket fuel. Top fuel motors are run on the virge or hydrolock (hydrolocking is when a liquid, that is noncompressable fills the cylinder to the point that the piston can not reach top dead center because of the liquid. With running an 8 to 1 compression ratio or lower, that's a lot of Nitro,and it ruins the motor in short order. Now the aromatic solvents are not nitro, not even close, but it reqilres alot more of them to sustain a burn for the entire stroke, and with the newer engines, that are EFI and computer controlled, they will never run that rich, so power suffers. A motor will by design require a certain level of Octane to run at max power, and timing is directly proportional to power output at least to a point. But once that octane level is reached, maximum power and effency is reached, if higher octane fuel is introduced, it does MOTHING to the power at high RPM's and at low RPM torque suffers. ANd that is what we all want it torque, horsepower ratings are cool to brag about, but on the street, torque is king. All the horsepower at 7000 RPM you can imagine is going to do nothing for you from a standing start with street tires and a tight convertor, and 7000 RPM clutch dumps do nothing but make your street tires greasy and get you tickets. My .02 on this.

Like I said, I been doing computers for a long ass time. It don't take much to pull the plug, and now it's pulled. It's been alot of fun hangin with you all, and now it done. Out of everything that's been done, I have never disagreed with any of it. I felt tht there were good reasons for it all and I had no problem with what was done. This, shutting down the board, I don't agree with. I have never thought that there was an abuse of power here, not by Anthony, or any of the mods. But this is. Sorry Anthony, But I got to disagree with you on this one guy. There are better ways to deal with this. I do understand that it's getting out of hand, and hard to moderate. That I do understand, my suggestion is though, pull the plug, or do a strick 3 strikes and lifetime ban, it's gonna get worse from here out unless you start lifetime banning people for the shit that goes on, so just do it. Cuz its not gonna get better from here. With that, I am done. Everyone's got a choice to be here, I choose not to be. Take care all. Desperado [ 24. March 2004, 12:08 AM: Message edited by: Desperado ]

Thanks Vince

Damn dude! Just head for the TSC, they got what you need.

hey, need the cylinder numbering for a V-6 4.3 liter. Is it 1-2-3 down the drivers side, or 1-3-5 down the drivers side on the motor??

One of the reasons that you should at least consider replacing battery. Lead /Acid car batteries are not designed to be deep cycled. Meaning that it be discharged then recharged, which is what you have basically done. It is hard on them. I have been told that a car battery will loose 20% of its current capacity every time it's allowed to be run dead. Now I don't know for sure if this is true, but I have used car batteries as power supplies and run them dead and then recharged them and after abotu 20 times, they will not charge. So there may be something to it. A car battery is designed to release very high amperage, for a short amount of time, when starting the car. Were a deep cycle marine battery is designed differently internally. ANd it is designed to be run dead, or a good portion of the way down, then charged back up. I have made the mistake of trying to run a deep cycle battery in a car and killed it in about a month. SO in your case, break down and get a battery. Best place to go if you are strapped is either AutoZone, or Interstate battery i Westerville and get a rebuilt battery. They are as good as new, and cost a bit less.

Ther is a guy on Beecher Rd. In pataskala. Franks Radiator I believe.

Not to worry, it may help it sell. What sort of money do you want for the headers?

Someone called me the other night about this. PM me and let me know what you found out.

After 3 on Friday is cool. Just give me a call and we will set something up.

Did some looking into this and wanted to pass this along. First there are 2 different Octane rating numbers RON and MON. These are Research Octane Number and Motor Octane Number. THe RON is typically higher, but the importnat one for racing and performance is of course MON. That is all that (R+M)/2 which is the minimum octane rating for the fuel. Second, max possible octane rating is 120.6 for ANY gasoline. With the rating system, only straight toluene, with alot of TEL (Tetraethyl Lead) added. Which is a very good octane booster but will kill catylists. It comes in at 124 but more on this as a fuel later. One consideration is the flame speed of the fuel, how fast it burns off. The reason this is important is if it all burns off in the first 25 or 30 degrees of crank rotation. Then the motor is just along for the ride. This is where other additives come in. Such as methanol, which is also a great octane booster. More over, it is an oxygenate, which just like it sounds provides O2 as it decomposes during combustion and provides additional oxidizer for that combustion. Of course 10% alcohol is in some gas already, but the Feds say that anything that has more than 2.7% oxygen content by weight is not considered pump gas. Pump gas, and many racing gases, because of restrictions on oxygenates are not high in oxygen content, but that is where the real power of fuel is at. Gasoline, has a very high heating value but requires alot of O2 to burn completely and have it's heat extracted and converted into mechanical energy. Some of the other things that needs to be considered when adding things to gasoline is the way that they react both with the gas and with the car. Toluene is a light aromatic (CH3C6H5) that is a common additive in pump gasoline, a boiling point of 231 degrees F. It is a common additive in unleaded gas that is not racing fuel. It's short coming is that although the higher octane number of toluene, it's burn speed, and low boiling point give it a tendency if used as a racing fuel to boil off ahead of the flame front during combustion. This can increase knock, and does not burn as well after being boiled off into a vapor. Xylene is also a light aromatic C6H4(CH3)2 with a boiling point of 270 degrees. Used in all racing gasoline at a level of up to 30% (giving you a (R+M)/2 of 104 and a specific MON of 100. The biggest consideration of all aromatics is the effects on the fuel system that they are being run through. All aromatics will have an adverse effect on rubber componets. And the increased burn rate of them. This directly relates to the RPM at which they are most effective of increasing power. When turning the motor at a low speed, the slower burning additives are better as they piston speed is slower and power is only created during the burn of the fuel. After the burn cycle has completed, gas expansion will soon cease. At a high RPM, with the piston moving at a high rate, the faster burn rate is ideal because the stroke time is much shorter. This is a major reason that we are burning gasoline and not toluene or some other aromatic solvent for car fuel. Methanol CH3OH has a combustion reaction of 2CH3OH + 3O2 -> 2CO2 + 4H2O. Methanol is converted down into MTBE which is a common additive in pump gas in small quanities, and is used as an octane increaser and oxygenate to decrease polution. (Gasohol) Methanol, because of it's high oxygen content is a great additive, both to increase octane and fuel power, but requires additional fuel to produce the same power level (decreasing MPG because you have to run a richer mixture) Has a slow burn speed that is idea in slow turning street motors and will also cool the intake charge considerably. But it has its down sides too. It is corrosive to most metals, and some plastics. It is toxic, can enter the body through the skin and in pure form will burn without a visible flame. Although I can't seem to find anything specific about Methanols specific Octane number I do know that it is compatible in motors of up to 23 to 1 compression ratio. (Remember that supercharging an engine is compairable to increasing the compression ratio and I will provide the chart later for what boost level equates to what compression ratio change.) So after all that here's the final skinny on this. With an 80/20 mix of aromatic solvet to pump gas here are the final numbers 20% toluene with pump gas will get you a (R+M)/2 of 104 20% xylene wit pump gas will get you a (R+M)/2 of 110 Methanol, although being better than either of the two, is quite unsafe, draws moisture readily from the atmosphere and should only be considered as a race only fuel. I am going to try to do some more research on the mixing of Methanol and Gasoline to see where it might lead. The performance aspect, for pure performance use is promising but with costs being a real factor for Methanol it's not something to work well as an additive due to its high ratio requirement and the need to increase the fuel mixture in order to see an increase in power. I am considering some testing with model airplane fuel that is 80% methanol and 20% nitromethane. But Nitro is VERY suseptiable to knock, and no current additive seems to change that. More over adding it to gasoline it has been found to severly decrease the octane rating of gasoline, even though it's about 53% oxygen content and releases this oxygen very readily which would make it a wonderful gas additive except for the fact it kills MON quickly. Possibly blending it in small quanities, with Methanol as I am planning to do, will result in a good performance fuel. Although taking it to the track will get you throw out and its smell does leave something to be desired. Somethng else that I am finding out. Octane does NOT make power. Higher Octane fuels than your motor actually require are not going to make more horsepower. So if you are getting into messing with fuels. Don't go overboard, becauser it's wasteful, and does nothing. The reason that fuels that are not high enough in octane don't make as much power is that power is reduced due to either spark knock, or the retarding of the timing to get rid of the spark knock. Also don't get it in your head that high enough octane will allow you to run some silly spark advance, like 50 degrees in a small block chevy (yes I know that ford guys can do this) the maximum timing for a motor has to do with the shape of the combustion chamber and the way that effects the flame front and the speed at which the fuel burns, Not the octane of the gasoline running in it. If you switch fuels, then timing can be adjusted accordingly. Methanol, it burns slower, so it requires more advance than gasoline. Nitromethane on the other hand, or any aromatic solvent if you were to try to run it as a primary fuel would require much less timing because or the burn rate being faster than gasoline. This is also why, and here comes the nay sayers, a lower octane fuel, due to it's SLOWER burn time will make more power than a high octane fuel because the octane additives make it burn FASTER. We do not deal with motors that spin at a sufficent RPM to require a fast burn fuel. If this was Columbus Formula1racing.com then the prior statement would no apply due to the fact our motors would idle at what most of us consider to be redline for the motors we have (around 5000 RPM) and not start making real power until 9000 RPM. If any of you are spinning your motor up like that (12000 to 14000) other than the bike guys, I would really love to see that. NOTE: This is the power of reading, some parts of this I knew, most I learned last night through reading and studying books on the subject. So you noobs take heed. There is a wealth of information both on the web and in books. You want to learn about things like this, read, don't guess, if you are looking to get books on a specific subject, if its car related, look for books by David Vizard first, if he puts in in one of his books, it fact, not speculation. [ 11. March 2004, 02:37 PM: Message edited by: Desperado ]

6-71 huh? is it a 6 or a 6V? Better way to ask, are the flanges on the center line of the lobes, or are they down on the output ov the blower. I would be VERY interested in seeing this blower. And if it's in reasonable shape. I would swap you. I don't suppose that you have a snout and manifold for a SBC to go with it? Call me and let me know.