craig71188

Just say "no". The usual story is "no increased taxes" on bond issues - until they have to pay back the bondholders, then there always seems to be a shortfall in funds and more taxes are needed. I'm still pissed over the last triennial property tax review, if you lived anywhere but NW Columbus, your taxes pretty much stayed the same or went down - the biggest increases were north of I-70 and west of I-71. As I said in the beginning, no, no and no! As a life long Columbus resident, I see the city government creeping towards driving all the producers out and working hard at becoming the next Detroit,

A great car guy has passed: http://autoweek.com/article/car-life/brock-yates-crosses-finish-line If you ever saw the movie Cannonball Run and thought they made up most of that stuff, go read his book Cannonball about the real "races" and you will find much of it was (in some cases) only minor exaggeration!

PM sent

Cleaning out the garage and I found I have 5 brand new BWD Premium ignition wire sets. Nothing racy, but if you need them for a street car/truck - they are good wires and they are FREE! Part numbers as follows: CH76129 - GM 3.8L V6 '95-'98 CH76135 - Chrysler Mini Vans '96-'00 CH76139 - GM 3.4L V6 '96-'99 CH76140 - GM 4.3L V6 '96-'01 The applications shown are just general buyer's guide information. If it sounds like they may fit, check you specific application here: http://ecatalog.smpcorp.com/bwd/#/vehicles

Raid #10 style steering wheel. This one is an oddball with the top cut out. Looks factory (or someone redid the leather VERY well). Never installed. 14" / 360mm. Pics here: http://columbus.craigslist.org/pts/5810798261.html $50

Cleaning out the garage - found two Holley R-1850-2 carbs (600 cfm / Vacuum secondaries). Good shape, just sitting for several years. CL pics and price here: http://columbus.craigslist.org/pts/5810749631.html

This has been for sale for a while (of course it's CL and may have been sold and never deleted): http://columbus.craigslist.org/cto/5728990451.html If you bend it, good parts are a little harder to find, but there are always "Z" projects that can be bought cheap Again, the best deal in your price range is the "good used" SCCA/NASA racer that has sat for a while. Get it with a pile of spares, prep it / make improvements over the winter - go fast next season!

Depends on how "purpose built" you want it to be... Is "street legal" important so you can drive it to the track? I prefer a trailered car as "if" the unthinkable happens - I can put it back on/in the trailer and drive home. After building a couple of purpose built cars I can tell you it's much easier / faster / cheaper to buy a built car and improve upon it. Then the choice becomes "real" race cars (sports racers / tube chassis / formula) or converted street cars (Showroom stock / Improved touring / American Sedan / etc). Formula cars are generally out as most track days don't allow "unfendered" cars. I can offer two choices: http://columbus.craigslist.org/cto/5694396084.html "Real race car" w/fenders that can run most track days. Much cheaper than other SR's and still faster than a lot of higher powered cars (I will deal on price) or: http://columbus.craigslist.org/cto/5694377464.html Converted street car (truck) w/spares for lots of fun. Either way, you won't have 2-10 more "me too" cars in the paddock with you. I am cleaning out so I can go Chump racing (I have a buy/build project in mind) - or if the truck is still here, it's almost done being prepped to race.

Having started in retail auto parts (Nationwise) a million years ago - I can imagine the employees and the tales you could tell. I still have a few about the old 5th & Leonard store!!! Of the retailers, I use this store the most - I'm about halfway between it and the N High O'Reilly's. Most of the time I know the brand and part number, order it online and just pick it up in the store So many of the retail guys only stock the cheapest stuff in there stores - the brand name stuff is in the hub or warehouse. Autozone on N High is actually closest to me, but I will not use "Duralast" product as it is typically a hodge podge of "lowest bidder" parts. I will go to Walmart for batteries, filters, chemicals. Depending on the brand needed I will use Bill up at MidState, or call Smyth and pick it up downtown. You just have to be sure they haven't bought some distressed product and mixed it in with their branded stuff. IF I can wait I may use Amazon, Rock not so much as I know who fulfills their orders and can call them directly and get what I need for the same or better price most of the time. NAPA is OK and the hub warehouse on 161 is pretty good, but again, with most of their stuff in "NAPA brand" you don't always know who's supplying it.

:mad:So I've worked in the automotive aftermarket for 40+ years. I know that good counter people are hard to get and keep and they don't get paid near enough. The retailers are hard pressed to get any help and obviously Sunday is when the folks lowest on the totem pole get to work. I needed a few small parts for the race car to finish up a couple of projects. I had 3 muffler clamps from O'Reilly's sitting on the bench, in the O'Reilly's bag with the receipt. I figured I would run over to the North High St store to grab my other parts and take the clamps back. No customers in the store, the person I assume was the manager is on a call and another employee is "hovering" near her behind the counter - in a "Team O'Reilly's t-shirt. I come in, set down the bag on the counter and wait. Call ends, she speaks to the other employee and then takes another call - no acknowledgment I am even there. I leave the bag, walk down the aisle and grab my stuff. I hear the manager announce she is going out for a smoke. I walk back to the counter (where I left the bag) a second employee (also in a "Team O'Reilly" t-shirt) is now at the counter with the first one a couple terminals down chatting. Still no acknowledgment. I pick up the bag and bring it down to them with my parts. I set down the bag and tell them I have a few parts I didn't need and wanted to get the others I had with me. The first words I hear spoken to me "So this is a return?". Uh, yes. He then asks if I want to do this transaction "all together". I say yes. He scans the clamps, studies the receipt and asks if I have the card the purchase was originally made on. I tell him I think so and hand him a card - not the right one. I ask where it shows the card number, I look and realize it's an old card I no longer have. I mention that I am buying more than I am returning so there is no credit that will be issued against the card. The next response "it doesn't make any difference if it's a $100 profit that's what I have to deal with. This job ain't worth getting in trouble over". I mention it's not worth my time and trouble to do business there, take my part and leave. WTF?!?! Is this the best we can do??? I try to do business locally so as to keep folks employed, paying taxes etc., but this is why I buy more and more online. This is also why I do most of my parts business with parts stores that do not cater to retail. Also, t-shirts? If your a great counterman I can tolerate it - a dude with a poor attitude in a t-shirt, no thanks. Maybe a bit more professional attire would prompt a more professional attitude. Sorry O'Reilly's, your hiring of this poor attitude employee will just prompt me to travel (the same distance) in another direction the next time I need something. Maybe I'm just a cranky old fart, but it's now too much to ask for "I'll be with you in a minute". I will dress in a professional manner. If I can't help you I will ask my manager, or at least not quasi-bitch about my job??? I can throw the $10 in clamps away and still eat tomorrow. Am I really asking for too much here??? Rant over....

I see people bitch about SCCA rules all the time (I know not applicable for the "event" shown) - but for "real" race events: Full approved & inspected roll CAGE Fire suit (2 layer minimum) Fire system in car "SA" Spec Helmet HANS device Window net Fuel Cell These guys were incredibly lucky - besides the obvious, they could have had an arm torn off had it flopped out an open window and if the car had caught fire, well... If you want to go fast, you also need to spend money on the safety gear. It's not a case of "IF" something goes wrong, it's a matter of "WHEN" something goes wrong and just how bad it gets.

Trailer can be included in a package deal if you want to arrive and tow. 16x7 enclosed (truck fits nicely in trailer), torsion axles and surge brakes. New ("0" miles) tires on all wheels including spare. Trailer is a V-nose, has a few cosmetic issues but is solid and dry. I will not sell the trailer separately, but will sell as a complete package for $7K (truck/all spares/trailer)

C'mon...if you "have an erection lasting more than 4 hours", the first thing they do is show you a picture of Roseanne

SOLD! Lock it up

2000 Birel CR32X chassis with Swedetech built Honda CR125 w/programmable ignition. Alfano Pro gauge, fresh piston and ring just installed in motor, brakes freshened, XL seat. Included with kart: cover, spare set of wheels w/mounted rain tires and two spare rear wheels w/old slicks, set of long hubs, spare rear caliper and line (needs rebuilt) and a box od misc. plugs, cables, jets, etc. Also included is a nice kart suit - fits larger adult (I'm 5'11", 220 lbs and it's just a bit snug on me). I purchased the kart last fall thinking I would have more time to run it this year. too many other race car projects have left it sitting, so I have decided to offer it up for sale. The kart would be great for autocross (my planned use) as it has the lightest bodywork available. Would just need fresh tires and a safety cable on the brakes to be ready. Asking $3200 for all Pics here: http://columbus.craigslist.org/snw/5651721592.html

http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a619/jcbutt/Nissan%20Race%20Truck/P1010079_zpserqjdicb.jpg Cheap track day vehicle or can run LeMons / Chump / SCCA / NASA. Chump has assigned a "base value" of $100 so it could likely run as is with no penalty. We ran one autocross event with the truck - lots of fun in FSP. 1993 Nissan D21 Race Truck, KA24E, 5 speed, full cage, fuel cell, NISMO front torsion bars, dearched rear springs w/spacers, "finned" shocks (Carrera?), Centerline wheels mounted w/Hoosier 225/45R-15 tires, header, cold air intake, oil cooler, remote oil filter. Engine is allegedly built by Sunbelt for Nissan w/higher compression and non-stock cam (specs unknown). Has locker/limited slip rear diff alleged to be 5.xx gear. Stillen air dam and fabricated aluminum bed cover, Lexan windshield 3 logbooks included with truck. Original book/build was a 1987 chassis and was raced in SCCA Coors Race Truck Challenge in 1987 & 1988 (independent). Truck was allegedly heavily damaged and "rebodied" to it's current form at some point (logbooks do not show incident). 1989 Ruan G.P. is the last Coors race. First logbook picks up again in 1995 as a Pro IT ("ITT").thru September 1996. 2nd & 3rd logbooks list the 1993 VIN and new roll cage number. I have checked to see if the old cage number is still present. 2nd logbook picks up with JUN'97 annual tech and goes thru till March of '02 (Annual Tech). 3rd logbook continues from March '02 thru November of '07. 2nd & 3rd books all appear to be Pro IT (ITT). Truck starts, runs, drives. Motor feels strong - runs cool, no smoke/noise - I have not done a leak down test and it is assumed the motor has a good bit of race time on it. Truck weighs in at 2733 on my scales w/"some" fuel in tank. Truck should have fluids changed, nut/bolt check and alignment check/corner weights checked before racing. Belts are out of date. Fire bottle next to driver. Also included but not yet installed: Fire system, MOMO Corse FIA seat (1992 date) and a 3 qt Accusump system. Spare Parts Listing QTY Description Notes 1 Engine Motor on stand Long block w/valve cover, condition unknown 1 Body Stillen Air Dam used spare - matches one on truck 4 Wheels Alum "slotted" wheels Used "dirt stocker" tires (old) 4 Wheels Alum "blade" wheels 225/45R-15 Hancooks 4 Wheels Alum centerline fakes Used Goodyear rains (old) 3 Wheels Steel spoke (chrome) junk tires 3 Cams Misc used cams "non-stock" grinds 2 Heads 1 bare/1 partial bare head has damage / partial is missing some valve train pieces 2 F Rotors Bare rotors - good used 2 Rotors/Hubs Rotors mounted on hubs w/caps good used 2 Front Corner RF & LF "corners" Lower control arm/spindle/rotor/caliper 1 Diff 3.89 Open center section seems to be good used 1 Diff 3.54 Open center section seems to be good used 1 Diff 4.625 Open center section Noisy, loose gear mesh - lots of backlash 2 Diff welded w/unknown ratio Pinions stripped on both - cases/bearings/carrier OK? 1 Transmission 5 speed (?) Tail shaft off (included) - told it had bent shift fork(?) 4 Pistons 12010-40F73 NISMO 9.1:1 KA24E 90mm new 7 Pistons 12010-40F72 NISMO 9.1:1 KA24E 89.5mm new 1 Pistons 12010-21P13 Nissan VG30 new 3 Pistons 12010-40F12 Nissan KA24E stock 2 Ring Sets Single Piston 12016-53F03 & 12038-53F05 - Brakes Pads / Shoes Misc used - some probably trash - Misc Fuel injectors w/rails & misc that box of "stuff" that comes with every race car Asking $3950 for EVERYTHING! More pictures here: http://s1286.photobucket.com/user/jcbutt/library/Nissan%20Race%20Truck

Yes, 10psi for drums, there are 2psi for discs, but again...never have run into a need for them (personally)

I have owned several formula cars where the master cylinders are below the calipers and have never had to run an RPV. Granted, we are running dual master cylinders with a bias bar to adjust them so it's a little different in that we can run two different size master cylinders if needed. I did look at them, but have never seen the need. Low pedal engagement on disc brake cars most often comes from excessive pad knockback (to much lateral rotor movement-warpage) or mis-sized components. OE's did combat some of this problem with "quick take up" master cylinders that moved a lot of fluid early in the stroke to take up the gap between the pad and the rotor. My guess is using the RPV's in the application you describe will lead to dragging pads and more brake heat. I would suggest replumb the system and try it. If you don't like the feel, look at a later model master cylinder, perhaps with a slightly larger bore (more fluid movement but will increase pedal pressure) if needed.

Looks like something where "hey looka dis" will be heard, followed by calls to "911". "Just because you can doesn't mean you should"

One tip: I do recall bypassing the beaches/picnic areas/etc where you first come into the park. We headed up to the far NE corner of the park where there were very few folks on the beaches.

Might take a look at Presque Isle State Park in Erie, PA (about 3.5 hours). Wife and I went a few years back, nice beaches, not crowded, several NW OH wineries along the way if you want to break up the trip. Also Cuyahoga Valley National Park south of Cleveland is nice and on the way.

Pictures and auditor's site link in you inbox!

My in-laws are relocating to Columbus from Port Clinton OH. As such, they will be selling their waterfront home there. Before we go forward with listing it with a realtor, if you can act quickly, you could get a better deal. 1146 sq ft, 2 bedroom, 1 bath – owned by my wife’s step father since the ‘50’s. Non smoking, no pet house. 2 car garage with additional loft storage. Small beach in front of house, concrete boat ramp, but end is in poor condition and there is limited space to get a boat/trailer to it – jet skis or smaller boats likely all it could be used for. There is a public ramp (but there is no parking near it) is less than a mile down the street and because of lack of parking, it is only used (by a very few) local residents. These smaller lakefront houses are getting harder to find as people have bought them up and rebuilt them as much larger (and expensive) 2 and even 3 story homes. The house next door was just listed at $349,000 on a double lot – but <1000 sq ft. to give you an idea of the market. Our realtor wants us to repaint (including the wood paneling) and replace the carpet with builder grade, throw up some new fixtures, blah, blah, blah. We will do so if no one is interested and it will be listed at $259,000. OR, you can “buy it now” and do what you want with it and save. Pre listing and realtor “improvements” price is $219,000. If you are interested, I can send photos and a link to the auditors website. Timetable to have them out is Easter weekend (we will be there FRI-SAT if someone wants to see it) and then we will begin painting the following week. Realtor will have the house listed in early April. PM me for more information.

Odoban http://www.odoban.com/ Great for killing pet odors.

I believe the OE's use fuel cut due to emissions - there's not much difference in controlling (killing a cylinder with) spark or fuel via the ECU. As to the "lean burn" concerns, if the injector is working properly (no leaking) and does not fire (inject), there is no fuel to burn, and when activated on another cycle, with full fuel pressure at the rail, will deliver the proper amount of fuel (again - no lean condition). I suppose a case can be made for "some" fuel in the air coming into the cylinder via reversion in the intake, but I would think it too miniscule to be an issue. Using spark cut (as you mentioned) there is still fuel going into an unfired cylinder and the potential for wash down is there, but with a random cylinder kill it is unlikely. Again, I think the OE concern is the more likely harm to O2's and catalysts in particular.