kirks5oh

6-7 yards of mulch. i won't need it for about a month

now that's a good argument for using them

i just don't understand shirts and straps that allow people to lift more weight. if i developed a mechanical bar that attached to my arms that allowed me to lift 1000lbs, should i tell people i can bench 1000lbs?--maybe i'm just a purist. i've been lifting on and off recreationally for 15 years--met my wife in the gym (jesse owens south), so i guess i used to be a gym rat.

i lift when i can, but my work schedule prevents me from doing a lot, and lifting after a 30 hour shift is the equivalent to lifting when severely hung over. i've never used anything, no powders, pills, shirts, gloves, wraps, roids, suits, etc. maybe a belt when i used to squat. i don't go over 315 bench anymore--can't afford to get hurt at all. i'm hoping to get into things this summer and go at least 4 times per week.

so all you have to do is spray this crap on your car and walk away??? these results look awesome

i just got the weatherstripping from home depot. it has adhesive on one side, and the other side is a soft foam type surface. i'll try to get some pics of the way the weatherstripping sits on the frige sometime this week. it was ground down to bare metal with a wire wheel, then primed with self-etching primer, and the paint is an automotive paint i got from autobody supply store (i think that's the name of it)--they have at least two stores, one on west broad, and one on grant ave.. the paint has a clearcoat hardener, that you mix in and apply multiple coats in one setting--you just keep going over and over in thin coats, until the paint is gone, using an air compressor spray gun (that's what i used). the white check stripe was applied with appliance epoxy spray paint from home depot--they only have white, black, and cream colors. the trim, and door handles, and hardware were wire-wheeled down to bare metal, and then powder-coated using a kit from sears (it cost about $150, for the powdercoating gun). for decent results, it does a great job. hope this helps, if you need more info, drop me a pm. the whole project took me about 2 months working on and off--my grandfather didn't even recognize the frige when he saw it. kirk

thanks, most of the hard part was just prep work--no big surprise. the primer/paint was $140, the kegerator kit $120, and powdercoat $5 (i used the sears craftsman powdercoater, and my home oven) the weather seal was $10, and the frige was free from my grandfather--it was painted with a grundgy white latex paint, and had quite a bit of surface rust to the original poster, i looked into formal refrigerator seals, and they are quite expensive and model-specific. i think i was able to find it for my frige and it was over $100!!!!--not worth it.

old friges are fantastic. here's some pics of my kegerator project i did last year. i got some weather stripping from home depot--i know its not ideal, but it seals the door perfectly, and how often do you really open the door to a kegerator??? BEFORE: the old frige and door stripped to bare metal ready to prime http://img162.imageshack.us/img162/5860/presorted17zi1.jpg http://img247.imageshack.us/img247/8906/frp059sv4.jpg AFTER: painted with automotive paint http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/7958/cimg0640fs2.jpg http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/4661/s3500073un0.jpg

MORE STUFF: sorry, i'm going through all my shit, and finding new crap i need to get rid of. 1) stock crankshaft--worked fine when the shortblock was swapped out--$25 2) brand new oil pumps with pickup--i have 2, these were taken from the ford plant when they shut down the 5.0 assembly line--the pickup is for the explorer so it may not be compatible with our mustangs--$25 each with the pickup 3) stock distributer--worked fine when i upgraded to the MSD. it does not have a cap on it, but does have the new upgraded ignition module that frequently went out on these cars--$25

i have some of them, but i'm not sure if i have all of them--the correct length ones should be easy to get if mine don't work. i think this thing is $50 brand new. when i bought my GT-40 intake at the ford swap meet in columbus 7 years ago, the guy included this spacer, which won't allow my stock hood to shut--so i have no need for it--and since i'm moving next year, i have to start liquidating some of my useless shit that i've accumulated and stored all over my house.

guys, the t5, the h-pipe, the underdrive pulleys, and battery box are pending purchase. i still have the t5 bellhousing, 2 turbine wheels, stock air box, smog pump, stock exhaust manifolds, 110lph fuel pump, light bulb housings, and 19 lb injectors. i also have a 1" phenolic spacer for a GT-40/cobra/explorer style intake--$20

yup, these are the connectors. not exactly a job to tackle at home. i hate taking my car to people i don't know, i appreciate the input guys.

i have the same connectors MM full lengths. i'll have to check them out--where are they located at??

anybody know a good shop around columbus to get full-length subframes installed (welded) on a msutang?? i'm looking for a shop that can weld them with the car up on a 'drive on' style lift--i'm assuming that's how everyone installs them?? any idea on a ballpark price?? thanks kirk

i don't even have the slightest clue what ANY of this even remotely means. it's almost as if it's typed in a different language than english. video games have come a long way, i guess. can you play regular xbox games with the 360??

will do. i'll look for the bolts for the crank pulley--they are allen head bolts as opposed to the standard bolt heads on the stocker

i just found some more stuff. i have stock light housings for '87-93 mustangs except the driver's side headlight. they are old and have some haze. $25 obo i also have what i think is a 110lph walbro fuel pump. it was used for 1 year, and replaced with a 190lph when i put h/c/i on my car in 2000--its been sitting in my basement for 7 years $25 obo i also have March underdrive pulleys--i have the crank pulley without the bolts and the alternator pulley $20 stock 19lb injectors--90k miles on them--free

$90 for the t5 alone, or $125 with the bellhousing. i really don't have a need for either, i don't need $$, but they are worth at least that.

i also forgot i have a battery relocation box from SUMMIT racing. i just have the black box, and the threaded metal bolts to bolt it to your car. $30 obo

are you talking about studs where they bolt up to the heads, or the studs at the collectors?? i just took a look at them and the studs at the collectors are actually cut with part of the threaded stud sticking out of each part of the flange. when i took them off the car, i must have cut the studs to separate the headers from the h-pipe--its been almost 10 years since they've been on the car. anyways, they're in my trash right now, let me know if you want them and i'll dig'em out.

yes, they are the stockers, i will check on the studs, but they might be broken, more info later today.

i'm just messing with you. you might have been shocked, but probably not 'in shock'. you can lose tons, and i mean tons of blood before you go into shock. i realize its not pleasant to have people poking and prodding the shit out of you without asking you first, but that's why we call them emergencies--there's no time to explain absolutely everything we're doing. the docs at riverside are the gods of hand trauma in columbus, all severed fingers/hands/arms go to riverside--so you went to the right place. be glad it happened at work, and not at home. now you can relax and not have to worry about the 6-8 weeks you'll be off work, assuming you're filing a worker's comp claim. good luck with your recovery kirk

dickhead doctor??? at my hospital, we would have tied off your radial artery and not repaired it (you have an ulnar artery as well, that can make up for the severed radial artery), so it sounds like the doctors who treated you did an excellent job. they poked your hand in different places to determine which nerves (if any) were severed. they probably grabbed your arm to stop the bleeding. just be thankful you live in a country where we are fully capable of fixing complex problems such as yours, and stop complaining about the excellent care you received.

+1 what is the advantage of having one of these?? is it modded for halo 2??

that's fine, but like i said, it will leak unless it is fixed--the fix should be pretty easy