spankis

I don't have much tank-keeping knowledge to offer, but I have an uncle who raises/breeds/sells freshwater stingrays. I know they require larger tanks, but they're pretty damn cool .

Firestone got it out, embarrassingly easily in fact. Guy who did it used a torch and REALLY heat it up. He actually owned a cobalt himself, and was familiar with the process/ pain. Once hot, he was able to get it loose with just a big screwdriver wedged into the pocket area as he loosened. Worked out ok I guess as wife has lifetime alignment through Firestone, so they knocked that out also. That said, anybody with a cobalt need control arms?

All good suggestions. I attempted to jam a flat blade in the tiny opening there is, but never could find the "captive nut" or whatever to get it to hold. Have not drilled a hole yet or pulled up carpet. In other news dealer wants $700, Firestone wants almost $600, both buying their control arms. I could maybe sell thr new aftermarket set I have for $150. Great stuff lol. Neither will let me pay them just get the bolt out and replace with new :fuuuu:. Depending on wife's work schedule next week Firestone may get my money. Such is life.

Also, Geeto, the picture helps some thank you. In my mind I think the butchery would be in the subframe itself rather than the floor. I've heard of neon guys doing the floor access hole for stuff too though. I feel like there may not be enough material at this location to be okay after cutting. More research is required I guess.

I think you are reading me right, Derek. Other guys online have apparently let the subframe "dangle" from the motor mounts to help get access, but from what I see I don't know how it would help as the SS cast arms have less clearance at the bushing. I will likely spend some more time on it Saturday, and probably call around a few other places. I'd like to avoid cutting the subframe but maybe I'm being a Nancy here. It's is just a cobalt lol.

Wife's car is a 2007 Cobalt SS with the NA 2.4. She just paid it off and we are putting some money into it to keep it going a while I've replaced struts, tie rod ends, sway bar links, etc..... All went fine. The lower control arm bushings are shot (common problem), but where I'm stuck is that I CANNOT get the rear control arm bolt out (sorta common problem). It is the bolt that goes vertically through the bushing and has a "cage nut" that is up in a pocket of the subframe which is basically inaccessible. PB blasted, impacted, nothing works, it just seems to be spinning. For what it's worth the SS cars have a cast aluminum control arm rather than steel, but the hardware and bushing is otherwise the same. Any GM guys on here familiar with this and able to help? The car is drivable as is because it's still together, but I've abused the hardware at this point and don't want the wife driving it to work until I resolve this. I've spoken with the dealer and they're only willing to do anything as a "job" meaning I buy the control arms from them and they replace the entire component - which I already have and bought as a factory "kit" with everything else - so not returnable now. They are unwilling to replace the bolt and cage nut assembly (which would let me bring it home and replace them myself), claiming they can't reasonably estimate/charge labor that way. Any suggestions or opinions? I'm trying to avoid eating the cost of control arms I already bought + pay dealer labor rates + dealer part mark-up.

Somebody needs to donate some professional audio recording time to this when done. The work behind it alone warrants a recording better than GoPro or iPhone fidelity.

FYI - I wanted to add that Tire Rack sells more than just tires. My buddy ordered all his suspension lift components (all eibach as I recall) through them as they ended up being cheapest after shipping. Obviously we installed everything in my garage, but there may be a market for that work also if you're referred to as an "installing vendor" or whatever. I could see folks ordering parts through tirerack (avoiding additional shop mark-up) and then still potentially coming to you guys for installation.

Not sure on a radiator that old, but Arrow Radiator would be worth a call.

.....Aaaaand that was his take-away.

I delivered for Vanguard Wines in college, and they have a huge warehouse over off Joyce Avenue. They were a major wine distributor for all Andersons stores and might be worth a try.

I'm pretty certain RWI put new gutters on the wife's old house before we sold it. They were not the cheapest, but were definitely reasonable. The cheapest guy showed up to quote the job in a rusty old ford with an obnoxious exhaust leak and said " I aint gonna shut it off because it may not start back up".... LOL contractors

Not sure guys. We had an existing TWC account (30/5 internet only), and I called one night about 9:30 to inquire about upgrading with Spectrum to the 60 plan, still internet only. Maybe whoever I talked to was drunk but they gave that price no problem, and no new customer or not discussion. Modem went down once while I was on the call with their rep, came back up and tested at 72/7. Good Luck! Edit: I do have my own modem

$29.99 pricing is only an option if you bundle with phone/cable tv. As an independent service, 60/5 costs $44.99/month

My spectrum 60/5 seems to test around 72/7 most days. It actually did go down Saturday night for an hour or two. Not exactly sure how long it was out as I was outside, but I will look tonight to see if my IP changed when it came back.

Cleaned up leaves, same thing I spent 6 hours on yesterday.... love the trees but damn.

You can most likely switch to Spectrum 60/5 as aTWC cable customer for $44.99 / mo. No contract, good for a year. If you bundle with phone or cable it gets cheaper still.

My best friend drove one of these for a few years. They're slow but decent little SUVs. His had the "shotgun seat" passenger seat that flipped forward completely flat. Worked great for hauling his fishing rods. I also helped him put a hitch on it so he could use those little hitch rack things for coolers or firewood. His was AWD, but I think the only issue he had with his was control arm bushings? It really gave him very little trouble.

"the fastest factory built street legal drag car ever" This thing is cool for sure, but that term is kinda hokey. Like they created a class so that they could call it the fastest. Not independently the fastest factory built, not the fastest street legal, not the fastest drag car, but all boxed up this way.... Fastest lol.

I forgot about it until this thread got bumped, but I think I saw this car in the Marconi garage downtown a month ago or more. I actually turned into the "empty' parking spot, only to find it deep in there lol. Super tiny.

FYI, the DVR functionality wasn't a requirement for me, so I don't have anything to replace that with our setup. As for $45 60/5, that's a standard offering through Spectrum right now: https://www.charter.com/packages As always if you bundle it with other shit it's cheaper still, but there cheaper cable packages are pretty lacking with respect to sports. Hope that helps.

We have had PlayStation Vue (similar to SlingTV) for over a month now and enjoy it so far. They have a number of packages, but what drew us in was the Big Ten network, many other sports channels, and a variety of other good "standard cable" channels for $35 / month. We use a Roku on one TV and a Chromecast on another, and both work well. The Roku has a legitimate "guide" type experience actually, and if you use the PS Vue app on your phone there is a simar experience with the Chromecast. There is some local network TV content (we get live CBS 10TV) but I guess that varies based on area. The other network channels aren't available live for us, though an on demand menu of already aired content is included. Between PS Vue service and a decent HD antenna, we don't feel like we have lost a whole lot from legitimate cable. For what it's worth we pay $45 / mo for 60/5 internet through Spectrum (time warner) $35 for PS Vue, and $10 / mo or whatever it is now for Netflix.

If you stick with the ranger instead of a full-size, find yourself a longbed: http://www.fordrangerforum.com/members/the-browning-ranger/albums/some-pics-of-my-ranger/35450-dscf0391.jpg You will appreciate it if hauling 8 foot lumber and stuff occasionally. I had a 2011 Ranger with the 2.3 and a a 5 speed. I really liked the truck. The 2.3 in the later models shares displacement with the older 2.3s but is a completely different (still good) motor. If you plan to use for a while pre-swap, I'd avoid the 2.5. If your swapping it immediately, then you don't care. The shell / frame / interior / body has not changed since 98, so basically find one rust free and jump on it. If you have a preference for the several different taillight, headlight, grill, and fascia options between model years, that might impact your decision, but it's almost all interchangeable....

I imagine it will be a heavy pig, and I really just don't care for Kia corporate parrotfish fascia / grille. Neat to see regardless.

Milwaukee has two 1/2" M18 fuel models. You want the higher output 1100 ft/lb one. There is another thread on this that isn't very old, where it's pretty widely agreed that the milwaukee easily beats snap-on and other brands, and even many air impacts.