TA In Progress

Wow, a lot has changed since I talked to you a few days ago. I like.

Do this first. It sounds like the PCM might not be commanding the A/C system on. The fact that you stated the condensor fan ran when you jumped the LP switch leads me to believe this. If the PCM was producing the output, the fan would should kick on even if the clutch wouldn't engage, as they both receive the signal from the PCM. I don't have the wiring print to look at to be 100% sure, but I have dealt with vehicles that work this way. When you jumped the LP switch, you did have the car running with the A/C selected "on", right?

I just wanted to thank Derek for confirming what I already suspected and thanks to him, Tire Rack is going to send me 3 new tires. Do yourself a favor and just buy tires from him, I know I will next time. Thanks again man!

Just left NTB Downtown and Derek confirmed with roadforce that three of tires are def. jacked.

I think it is probably going to come to that. Very frustrating to say the least. I think in the future it would just be easier to buy local, even it costs a bit more.

What did you say to them? I noticed in your later post that you found they were defective without a roadforce balance. They told me they needed all of the roadforce numbers, the name of the shop, the tech's ssn and urine sample, you name it. The people I dealt with never gave me the option of purchasing different tires (which I would gladly do) and returning my old ones. They said the only thing they could do was call BfGoodrich and see if they would warranty the 3 bad tires.

The first set was roadforced by Dave when he was at NTB downtown and determined bad. Second set was not roadforced, but the car had no vib. issues before new tires, and is barely driveable now. After a second visit to the tire shop, the balance was determined good (I watched them, I'm not an idiot) and there is a very pronounced wobble/out of roundness. There is at least 1/4" of side to side movement on the sidewalls of 3 tires (not to mention up and down movement of the tread) which I'm confident is causing my issue. My issue is with Tire Rack and the unprofessional attitude of their people (have spoken to several), as well as their resistance to do anything about the issue. Both sets of tires were installed by their "recommended installers", and then today they tell me the installers don't know what they're doing.

Cut the nut/stud off with a die grinder and then replace the link. I've had to do this with that type of link before.

......sucks. Trying to get any kind of warranty from them is damn near impossible. The people you deal with on the phone for warranty issues are the most unprofessional people I have ever met. I have bought 2 sets of tires from them and each set had 3 tires that were out of round right out of the box. I will never buy anything from them again.

Better than in your backyard.

These cars were bad about burning up fan motors due to their proximity to the front exhaust manifold. I had several different 90's V6 Chrysler products and all of them had to have the fan motor replaced (some more than once). Sometimes the fan will still run, just not fast enough.

I must say I wasn't impressed with their service either. Mine went in with 3 hours on it due to a bent deck idler bracket and they had it for 2 weeks during May. They had it for almost a week before even looking at it.

Chains would def. help, but I still can't imagine pushing a large amount of snow with it. Any more of an aggressive tire would tear up the yard when attempting tight turns. It would also suck trying to drive it and adjust the blade at the same time, considering it takes both hands to drive it.

I know this is a few days old, but I thought I'd give my 2 cents. I was skeptical about buying a zero turn for my 3 acre lot until actually mowing it with one and seeing how much faster they really are. I always liked a having a tractor (snow removal, hauling a cart, pulling bushes, etc) but I didn't like the 4-5 hours it took to mow my yard. It still takes 2-2:30 start to finish. I bought a Cub Cadet Z Force (commercial) with a 50 inch deck and a 23 hp Kohler from All Power in Lancaster for 2995.00. I did, however, already have a Wheel Horse for snow plowing and grunt work. I don't like having 2machines, but I also like doing other stuff besides mowing grass, lol. They do make a snow blade for the Cub, but that thing is worthless on wet grass so I can't imagine pushing snow with it.

The nice thing about the historical tags is that you only pay for them once. I know they were less than $50. I hated to get rid of my personlaized plates on my 51, but I couldn't justify $90 a year for a car that I don't drive much.

+1 for Jim's Trim......excellent work.

Not sure if this is the way you want to go, but I know where there is an Edelbrock TPI base and runners (brand new) that could be had for about half of the $800 new ones cost....

PM Sent

I have 2 black leather front seats out of a Trans Am, 01 I think. The car had hardly any miles on it. The leather is close to perfect, no cracks or worn spots like 4th gen seats usually are.` They have the adjustable side bolsters and the driver is power. They are the nicest I have seen for quite some time. I was going to put them in my TA, but decided I wanted to keep the car original and retain the light gray interior.

Like my first post and several other people's have said.....check the torsion bar crossmember mounts. Just follow the torsion bars straight back until you find the crossmember. The mounts that attach that crossmember to the frame are what separate. Also, all of the balljoints on a 4WD are riveted in. The 2WD has a press in lower and a riveted upper.

+1 for Jims trim......they recovered the bottom of the bench seat in my K10....it was around $200. Looks perfect, though.

Ball joints? Check them with a jack under the lower control arm to keep the suspension loaded....this is about the only way to check these with any accuracy. I've also had issue on S-trucks where the mounts that attach the torsion bar crossmember to the frame serparate, thereby making a clunking noise when turning. This.... http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Mount-Monroe_15740229-P_2054_R%7CGRPCHASAMS_406949822___

I just had to renew six vehicles and my DL.......that wasn't cheap.

I think the later 4.3's (Vortecs) have positive stop rocker studs and there isn't any adjustment. The older TBI and carbed 4.3's have the adjustable rockers.

Summit has DJM springs for around $90 a pair. I lowered my Jimmy using Belltech spindles with DJM 1 inch coils, and 3 inch tapered blocks in the rear. So far I have been happy with the ride. I got the spindles on Amazon.com, that saved me 50 dollars.