Richard Cranium

I just put a set of Nitto Invos on my Impala. I saw them over at Zepplin's place on his car. They have a pretty radical tread pattern, but it's not directional, so you can rotate your tires side to side too. Once he gets his brakes done I'll bet he can give you a better report on them. It'll be a little while till my Impala is out. We're finishing the tune up and then to the body shop for a little paint work.

Found this, sounds like a good idea for an installer. After almost destroying the crank snout hub threads by using the "get longer bolts" method, I fabbed a hub installer. I bought a 3' length of 7/16" SAE Fine threaded rod, B7 (high strength alloy steel) grade, from here: http://www.nutty.com You'll also need a few grade 8 nuts, a few THICK washers, Red Locktite, and anti-seize lube. I used the washers with anti-seize compound initially but I found a roller thrust bearing that I now use -- I don't remember where I got the bearing. The washers work fine, but the bearing works a bit better. Hub installer parts - http://members.cox.net/gmarengo/Misc/HubInstaller_parts.JPG Hub installer assembled - http://members.cox.net/gmarengo/Misc/HubInstaller_assembled.JPG

+1 with Rob. I used a socket and mallet to put the new seals in. For one of them I didn't have a socket big enough, so I just tapped it in with the mallet. The hub adapter is the worst. Pulling it went okay with a 3 jaw puller and the pulley still attached to the hub. The installation as far as I can tell is impossible without the right tool. I haven't been able to find one either. We made one by taking a steal bar and running a threading die down it. I think it was maybe 8 inches long. Do not try to hammer the hub adapter back on. Your chances of getting it back on straight are low, and you run the risk of screwing up the thrust bearing on the crank. Let me know if you want some help. I'd be happy to pitch in with whatever I have.

I would have cost NASA much more to do that because they would have been looking for specific information, not just random shots. Have this same guy to the same thing except record oxygen levels, temps, force of gravity, air pressure, etc .... Oh, and radio the information back to the ground (so when the recovery system fails the whole experiment isn't lost). NASA also would have been responsible for controlling where it comes down, so no one would get hurt. All that aside, I think what the guy did was great. But if you look at the development costs involved in what he did, the cost is astronomical. NASA gets dinged with development costs when there is no off the shelf item they can grab to do the job. If this guy had to invent the technologies he used .... it wouldn't have happened. Makes you wonder though what we'll be able to do in 10 or 20 years with off the shelf technology (pioneered by government funding for military or NASA).

I don't know about that day, but normally he charges $50 for 3 pulls. I'll probably take out my wimpy 'lil LT1 and come over to hang out. Or, since I'm not a big dog with an LS1 do I have to stay on the porch?

Sounds like fun, wish I could help out. If it was summer I would jump on this (as long as it didn't get in the way of grad school).

Sounds like my fight with my motor a couple summers ago. Over heating and always had air in the coolant. Was a head gasket leaking exhaust into the coolant passages. The smoke could be coolant flowing back into the combustion chamber when the engine shuts off and there is more pressure in the coolant than in the cylinder.

I still have my first bike. 1975 Harley Sportster (with electric start, but no kicker). It is true, old Harleys don't leak oil, they mark their spot. I was 26 years old, quit my job and bought the Harley in the same week. I was accused of having the youngest midlife crises in history. I don't recommend a 35 year old 1000cc cast iron bitch for a first bike.

My buddy picked up the part at the stealership yesterday for $60 (Extra charge because it had to ship from Canada, shit, shit, shit) ... I've been looking for that part on and off for a year now. If some one doesn't take that it's worth keeping around since it will break on most 4th gen f-bodys.

I may need the drivers side window ... but I finally broke down and ordered the part from the stealership on tuesday. If they can't get it I'll get ahold of you.

Looks like a lot of fun. Good luck with the project.

Look at it this way, growing old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

I'll have to save that page for later, but looks like a hell of a story.

What were you doing with your condoms then?

At 100 lbs, find three more and power each wheel with one.

This has apparently happened before and the deal will hold up in court as long as he follows the terms of the deal and doesn't give them any legal room to back out. They put in the auction it was a legally binding contract. Ebay didn't add that part, the dealership did. http://blog.oregonlive.com/complaintdesk/2009/12/bidder_gets_the_challenger_wit.html

Hmmm, this might be worth blowing my personal day on. Schools frown on teachers playing hooky.

For stock type machine work I've had good luck with Columbus Colweld.

here is the thread with the cover, dunno if he still has it or not. But if your going to open the rear end anyhow this would be a nice little upgrade to make it stronger. http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/showthread.php?t=74908&highlight=jegs

Mine did not whine until we installed the 4:10 Richmond gears. Apparently Richmond gears whine more than others. If yours are stock then might be worth it to replace them. Since it'll all be apart might be worth rebuilding the posi unit too (new clutches, etc...) Also could install a new rear end cover at the same time. I think I saw someone selling a 10 bolt cover on here, jegs brand if I remember correctly.

I love my 95 Z28. There are some problems native to the motor, but every motor has them. If you're worried about the mileage on the motor (I wouldn't unless there is a noticeable problem) it's relatively easy to rebuild. I have a block, crank and bearings I'd sell you cheap. It'll be a big change from your Del Sol.

I was going to buy the craftsman low profile racing jack, but read a bunch of horrible reviews on the sears website. One was the universal joint to open and close the valve would break. Guys were getting stuck with their car up in the air and no way to open the valve and lower the car. The other was the guts would leak, not under warranty and the replacement components were more than the jack was. So, picked up a similar jack at Harbor Freight and haven't looked back. Less than half the price of the craftsman. Works like a charm, and if it breaks I can buy another and still be ahead.

Loose nut behind the wheel.

Keep us updated man. I'm old enough now that I don't know too many guys over there. What those guys are going through on a daily basis is so foreign to me I can't even begin to imagine. I'm hoping he pulls through all this.

Sweet. I order the assortment pack from RockAuto. Hopefully one of them is the right size or close enough it'll work. I appreciate the help.