POS VETT

Do you have a chauffeur?

You couldn't sleep or are you truly a night owl?

That's exactly what I was talking about, a "flat venturi" for lack of a better term.

No need to shit your pants over an E36 M3; I used to have two '98 M3s, an Arctic Silver Coupe and a Techno Violet Sedan. Both had a manual transmission.

I'm more concerned about the changes in aerodynamics and NVH.

How does that flat collector compare to the commonly-used "square" collector? It seems to have a volume that's quite large which acts as an expansion chamber. Could it be shaped like a "flat venturi" to reduce turbulence? I must say that I like the top-notch craftmanship. Press on.

In case you didn't know, according to GM, the BSM is actually functional in reducing aerodynamic drag. The effect is probably small enough to be of concern. However, before committing to something as substantial as repainting, have the paint condition appraised by someone who does paint correction. I have seen substantial paint damages majorly reduced or eliminated.

What kind of paint issues? That factory color is not a one-coat job, I believe Magnetic Red is a tri-coat. If you wish I could provide a recommendation for paint correction.

Not bad, Ben, not bad at all.

Matt, I like the idea and the noises generated very much. One thing that comes up in my mind is thermal insulation. The tunnel area, for some reasons, transfers a significant amount of heat into the cabin. The exact cause is unknown to me, but I think it was from the convection from the engine bay and then was aggravated by the two exhaust pipes under the tunnel plate. With increased combined surface area of four primaries in each side, I suspect there would be a significant increase in heat transferred into the cabin. By how much is ground clearance reduced by stacking the primary pipes in such fashion? Does the lowest point of the collectors still sit above the frame rails? Would a "tri-Y" design simplify and reduce the plumbing while keeping the same objective?

Three is moar best

Awesome.

Could have been worse.

Unless it has been repainted, there is only one model year that a C5 in FRC body came in Speedway White, 2001. In 1999, the white is called Arctic White. Speedway White is a tad "dirtier" than the more brilliant Arctic White. The color was offered in 2001 through 2003 model years C5 including the (regular) coupe; it stopped being available for FRC body, or by then Z06 model, starting in 2002. Arctic White returned in 2004 model year. The rarest C5 Z06 is model year 2001 in Speedway White with a Mod Red interior.

Are the quarter panels meant for a Z06/Grand Sport?

I would run 0W-30 instead in the winter. If viscosity was a concern at operating temperature range, bump the second number, something akin to 5W-40. VQ37VHR runs a higher oil temperature range but it's never a concern in my street-driven car, the higher range is actually nice in terms of getting rid of moisture.

I'm sorry to hear about the passing of Lola. I'll give my skunk extra hugs tonight.

Damn, those in the list are beyond depressingly mundane.

Also, don't put brake dust-laden apparatus back in the bucket ...

I wish I could make the party, but my company Christmas party is on the same night and I need to get ready for a 400-mile trip on the next day.

The car doesn't know what size wheels and tires fitted on it. Installing TPMS sensors on the winter set would alleviate the problem with the warning light and chime. I suggest having a dedicated winter set equipped with slightly oversized (OD wise) winter tires to boost ground clearance. There are tricks and tips to build a cheap and properly-sized winter set. Let me know if you decided to go that way.

Kimmy?

Calm down, Clay.

I don't have a personal experience with them to say one is better than the other. All I know is RA1 is a very old line, R888 is a lot newer. RA1 was unpopular when I started autoxing.

$40 to fill or to exchange a 20-lb tank is pretty steep. The last time I filled my tank, it was around $15. Barring a propane leak, propane combustion product that might cause a concern is carbon monoxide due to inefficient reaction. Since your usage is intermittent and the burners are efficient enough (less likely to produce CO), I suppose it is safe to run it in an enclosed garage which is not exactly air tight. If you felt it was necessary, simply plug in a CO detector in the garage as close to the burners as possible. In comparison, I have run my propane-fueled space heater for hours on end and there has been zero event when I suspected CO concentration to reach a dangerous level. I don't have a CO detector in the garage but there is one in the house.