miller11386

I 100% agree with this. The problem is my car has "gone too far" to be a street car again without sizeable investment. IE: all my subframe and diff mounts are solid aluminum. Axles and driveshaft are all connected via solid couplers. NVH is insane in this car. Just "tooling down the road" is a migrane waiting to happen. There is no functioning radio, no AC, no heat, I cant hardly stand to be in it more than an hour before my ears ring and my foot is on fire. Its just not made to drive around. A mild supra with rubber mounts everywhere and simple things would be perfect. Hence why mine is for sale. I would like to start over and go for the "just barely 1000whp, but not a track car" route on say a nice 72mm. Maybe even smaller. I am not sure what id pick right now honestly because its not really an option. My next investment is to stop renting and get a home under my belt, so my money is spoken for at the moment. (which is an equally frustrating experience, but that is a completely different thread) Bottom line is I didn't buy the car complete. I bought a shell that was missing 80% of the stock stuff and most of the rest was damaged or unusable. Great for a track car build, but not for a street car. This was what made me go the "build all the things" route, which made sense for what I have. I am sure once I am not pissed off at it again, I will be back at it. It just becomes quite the ordeal and I get frustrated. I have put over 15k in the car this year and driven it 20 miles... probably 3-4 of those were dyno miles or just moving the car on and off the trailer. Not a very good enjoyment factor on the investment. I know if I had a spare 30k rolling around, I would have a 6266 or 6466 car. Make 600 and just drive it everywhere in the summer and it would make this car a lot more tolerable being in the stable all the time.

I have just been thwarted every time I wanted to run the car. Get the car out to SP and the oil control rings fail. When I pull the motor, the clutch has a cracked disc. Order the new disc and start on a rebuild. Struggle to get it in one piece then once all back together, the rear main leaks, coolant leaks at the firewall, along with a shorting injector. Small stuff not working right have kept me from running the car all year. Fairly aggravating. I still have not made it to the track with the car that is literally built to go down the track. Its the cars only purpose It could be worse. I could be in the Staats boat of blowing up 4 motors in 2 years.

I would repair the rear main before selling it. $30 seal and a couple hours in the shop is not that huge of a dilemma. Its more the fact that I never get to enjoy the car. If it doesn't sell, ill run it next year.

I have a can of Kano AeroKroil. That stuff does work on rusted bolts. Unfortunately its not really readily available to the average person.

Well got the N20 Purge back up and working. Then fired the car up after a debacle of issues with injectors. #1 was shorting internally on the wire, so I ran a replacement. Afterword she was running like clockwork. The car now has decided that the rear main seal is not going to cooperate. The car runs great, but is seeping a lot of oil out of the weep hole on the back of the block. After a 3 week long marathon, I'm tired of looking at it and have lost all motivation to keep plugging away at it. Into deep storage it goes until next season when I will get to pull the tranny for a rear main seal, tightening up a few minor things and finally running the car.

Finally down to the little things....

Progress....

Yep that's the same one. Drivetrain is for sale if you know anyone that needs it. He wants a turbo engine. The SBC V8 was a great starter drivetrain, now he wants something with a turbo. Unfortunately the T5 and SBC don't do it for him anymore, so he wants to swap it all out for something different.

That is my friends Datsun 280z. not sure what year, but its 197X vintage. I want to say '76. I went to an electric pump because we half filled the block while it was apart. Should be a lot stiffer and take more hp before it breaks. Very common on the 2j platform past 1100whp. Some have ran more, but my block is already at the max machining that id like to see (.040 over), so I opted to fill it half way since it needed a cleanup hone anyway.

Well Saturday was productive. 18 hour day yielded a motor assembly and getting most of the accessories on the car and getting the tilton back on the V160 again. So happy all the "hard stuff" is done. I have to figure out where to get a meziere electric water pump idler pulley or ill be forced to drop power steering, which isn't what I wanted to do. Hopefully meziere will sell one separately. Here are some photos from Saturday. 7:30AM to 1:30AM the next day. . Hope to make some more progress after work this evening.

The final piece to the puzzle has arrived. Thanks to Mark Conte at real street performance for getting me the right stuff and being there every step!

im just glad to see Tony wont be getting a bad rap for something that was clearly a complete accident and tragedy. Not to mention the guy barely had a clue where he was with all the ganja coming from his helmet

Racoon Fur. Plentiful in ohio and easy to procure

They helped me out a little on pricing, but that was all. Bottom line, in a race application, all the liability is on the customer. They are happy to help you get it back in shape though for the least cost. I was very happy with the candid nature and help Tilton provided, but as you know, their carbon clutches are all race applications, so they cannot warranty anything. I have actually seen guys with brand new Tilton triple carbon clutches set the preload on the clutch incorrectly and wear them out in a matter of a few hundred miles.

With all this motor progress, its time to get started on the little things... first up, reloading my intake manifold with all the goodies. Top side fitted with injectors Then on to the most painful but most simplistic fix. Swapping the chipped floater out of my tilton for a nice new one.

New rings are in and fitted to the block. Waiting on some wrist pins from Real street and we can start putting it all back in place... (the boat anchors were too short for my 2004 pistons lol)

that dodge shift rotary knob.. drove one... I cant. The most awkward way to change gear ever, but that is all personal preference.

the new chevy platform is the best usable truck with creature comforts. Hauls the most and keeps its composure doing so. All aluminum F150 seems to be a decent option for ohio though. Just not a fan of how basic they are option wise. Chrysler products are never considered in my world... too much rust/breakage.

unfortunately some people are just retarded. Also if you are serious about finding a sup, let me know your price range and must have items and ill keep my eyes open.

$750 obo I am selling the pistons and wrist pins from the motor I purchased here (and still currently own): http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?675412-Race-Longblock-*BUILT-TO-THE-HILT* These withstood 39psi on my Garrett 4780 making 1006whp and had dyno time at 34psi on my 8889 making 1103 whp at SP. Only 600 miles on these pistons. Dyno video from March: These are out of the motor and ready to ship. The tops have some black oil film from a ring issue in the motor. (2nd ring was wiped out and letting oil pass by) http://i1035.photobucket.com/albums/a440/miller11386/20140909_174643_zps5vrhs9w4.jpg http://i1035.photobucket.com/albums/a440/miller11386/20140909_174708_zpsxiy3vdyz.jpg http://i1035.photobucket.com/albums/a440/miller11386/20140909_174717_zpsrk06qrvu.jpg http://i1035.photobucket.com/albums/a440/miller11386/20140909_174734_zpsyzdgpwqu.jpg http://i1035.photobucket.com/albums/a440/miller11386/20140909_174808_zpsb42hy4b5.jpg JE spec sheet: http://i1035.photobucket.com/albums/a440/miller11386/20140912_153749_zpsj8zbthl8.jpg If you have any questions, feel free to PM me. I would entertain selling the Carrillo rods with these if someone was interested, however I will probably just re-use them in my rebuild. Thanks for looking!

how much for some hookers and a Weldon 2345A? I need to supersoak them hoes

Block is finally bored and ready. A pile of junky parts just waiting for the motor to come home.

+2 You buy a car without inspecting it, you get what you get. People only sell shit on ebay or stuff there is no market in their area for. Obviously you know which one this is.

I have a nice A2A Greddy 4" thick core off a supra if you are interested. Personally I believe A2A on street cars. Plenty of power to be made with air to air coolers. You wont be pushing enough power with those manifolds to worry about going air to water.