vonrottes

never really followed Megasquirt products. but that is still pretty nifty.

this time I was actually on time doing something! she hit the streets today after I slapped on a new air filter and put some clamps on the exhaust. http://41.media.tumblr.com/8634e7999bb95a60f62a8024c3259518/tumblr_nsilkl9WNP1suerqbo1_540.jpg http://40.media.tumblr.com/658124ba52980ae91f5d3b0c61403b7e/tumblr_nsilkl9WNP1suerqbo2_540.jpg http://41.media.tumblr.com/406563be8e07423730f40f7713ba8813/tumblr_nsilkl9WNP1suerqbo3_540.jpg http://36.media.tumblr.com/f6bd832e248db369341c3a12f6d4e6b5/tumblr_nsilkl9WNP1suerqbo4_540.jpg So far so good. runs great, has a weird "vibration" around 55-70mph in OD... I think it's just the exhaust. other than that, with the new crossmember and transmission mount (no binding and a better tailshaft angle) the vibration at....higher speeds have smoothed out completely. kinda surprised on the exhaust though. lost one of my stage 8 bolts and reused the victor reinz header gaskets.... WITH NO LEAKS AT ALL! LT fuel trims are running around +0.8 so far no leaks anywhere, no overheating, no weird noises (other than a damn belt squeak) maybe it's just me, but I always expect the worst when I tackle something like this... Like the oil pump oring and the head gaskets. still worried about the head gaskets leaking though.

Late update. 706 heads turned out to be castech http://36.media.tumblr.com/23ede4ea9c1da819d80dffa1bdb68fd3/tumblr_nrlazziZrc1suerqbo1_540.jpg that were cracked http://41.media.tumblr.com/9cd7ba19b030c0e5f1cd7c1c3dced26f/tumblr_nrm54y0Izr1suerqbo1_540.jpg so I reused my 862 heads http://40.media.tumblr.com/3e0f80699df02f19cb937e2f9d606cea/tumblr_nrlazziZrc1suerqbo2_540.jpg after I lapped the valves and replaced the valve stem seals http://41.media.tumblr.com/de12677fcb099d9a2b0c6c9fec2aa34a/tumblr_nsdxgxMYmG1suerqbo4_540.jpg and I even found the #8 exhaust valve was bent.....wtf http://41.media.tumblr.com/3f0a456aa607df794a861cef534cc3cd/tumblr_nsdxgxMYmG1suerqbo1_540.jpg and boom http://36.media.tumblr.com/27fd683827c88791872029c0d34846fe/tumblr_nsdxgxMYmG1suerqbo2_540.jpg Other stuff I have not taken pictures of yet: I redid all the engine wiring, it now run off a tiny distribution block with fuses. and a single relay for the fuel pump. the dash wiring i now hooked up under the hood with a weather pak connector. Instead of trying to wedge my misaligned stock crossmember back under the truck I went and bought a brand new Gforce S10 4l60e crossmember, and had to relocate the driver side exhaust to clear that square behemoth. also had to replace the transmission mount as mine had ripped in half (probably due to the misalignment of the crossmember) and here is a short clip of it running https://instagram.com/p/55aNtcrC4o/?taken-by=vonrot going tomorrow to replace the air filter, finish bolting up the exhaust and putting the hood back on.... nearly a month and just shy of $1,000 to do an engine upgrade... *more pictures of all the work tomorrow. gotta show off how much cleaner it is this time around.

I will be there...so long as I can finish my truck friday.

I've seen some decent fiero replicas...but this one... I think I might have gotten cancer. Also....don't gullwing doors open from the top like a delorean!?

Already registered to upgrade when it comes out. Imo looks like 10 is what everyone wanted 8 to be.

lol more like a case... realized when I got home, I ordered the wrong head gaskets. my 862's don't have the notch, so I can use MLS

:confused: I guess this was a ready hard question, I just just went and bought new valves seals, lapping compound and some totally awesome cleaner to do it myself.

All l need is my old 862 heads cleaned up (hot tank?) And maybe just a quick valve job? Nothing fancy no porting/polishing. Inspected the 706 heads on my 5.3 and they are in fact cracked castechs. this aren't bad...right?

Gonna start working on my pos tomorrow after work. if I can get the engine in and running in time. I'll make an appearance.

But...but... Well I can't really say anything yet since all my stuff is estimated/calculated... between 230-250rwhp and 3000-3200lbplus the piece of shit still doesn't have the new engine in it yet...

damn son.

woah woah woah woah woah....WOAH WAIT.WHAT? So what you are saying is..... your GTO is only 300rwhp? and here I thought I was only faster than a standard hemi charger/challenger.

got a little deeper into my now dubbed toast 4.8L and found an ass load of metal and carbon/sludge in the bottom of the pan(it was gritty not slimy) and even more metal in the K&N filter. on various other sites... everyone is telling me my exhaust valves were getting way too hot. my dad says they look OK just a little lean probably ¼" thick in there.. that is only at 4,000 miles with 5,000 mile oil changes with castrol GTX and K&N filters and a grand total of about 10,000 miles I put on the engine http://40.media.tumblr.com/9ebb54f90351f95b76721134f1b15746/tumblr_nrecjn7PR21suerqbo4_540.jpg pan after cleaner got dumped in it http://40.media.tumblr.com/c4a0d67222a045bce2f638e01b406e5a/tumblr_nreu7jwNgw1suerqbo2_540.jpg all of the exhaust valves look like this http://40.media.tumblr.com/1f834b1857cabce54fceb502514a6791/tumblr_nrcwdcEYIN1suerqbo5_540.jpg I'm just a little confused as to how a stock PCM can run a engine too lean like I'm being told it is. as far as I know the ONLY things done to the PCM are what I paid for which was a VATS, EGR, A/C and rear O2's disabled. gear ratio was NOT changed to 3.73 & 29" like I ask I still have the EVAP run from the tank to a charcoal canister to the purge solenoid on the intake. fuel trims after the exhaust leaks were running minimum light throttle -5 to +14 at 60% throttle + I never had overheating problems (actually kept it at 197-202) never got a check engine light other than the knock sensors, O2 sensor in january and temp sensor because it came unplugged. I'm scared the tune on the PCM is not stock and total crap, so looks like Friday I'll be setting up an appointment at dynotune to get a bench tune... already emailed brain about it like.......9 months ago

I'll bring my S10 out..... with the new "flintstone engine".........

Looks like my decision to buy the new engine over a new oil pump was the right one... Actually drained all the oil from my H3 pan and the bottom had enough metal/sludge/carbon that the posts for the pick up tube were covered completely.. Cut apart the oil filter and found twice as much metal in there. looks like it may have been enough to restrict the flow enough to pop the bypass valve at higher pressures.... http://40.media.tumblr.com/9ebb54f90351f95b76721134f1b15746/tumblr_nrecjn7PR21suerqbo4_540.jpg After some acetone got dumped in. http://40.media.tumblr.com/c4a0d67222a045bce2f638e01b406e5a/tumblr_nreu7jwNgw1suerqbo2_540.jpg Engine is still on a stand due to....two stubborn broken off manifold bolts.. Extractor snapped off, no drill bit we could find on sunday was hard enough to cut through it and I couldn't get a solid weld on it... aside from that.... the engine is ready to go back in. http://36.media.tumblr.com/0d8195ccaf147473e11a8141018f3f29/tumblr_nrecjn7PR21suerqbo1_540.jpg After we found that crap in the oil pan, my dad no longer wants to turn that into his turbo race engine... so long as the rotating assembly is good all it should need is new bearings right? I mean the crosshatching in the cylinders still looks great, Cam is not grooved and I mean it was still running great while it had oil pressure. Other confirmed issues on the LR4: rear main was leaking as I suspected and rear cover was leaking, transmission mount is ripped in half Could not see a visible bend/warp in the flex plate which is what I thought was causing a vibration around 3k in park.

After I lost oil pressure I decided to just get a new engine since there was a chance of it being a real problem and I might have needed to get one anyways... Soi I got a 2004 LM7 with 143k on it. http://40.media.tumblr.com/429b23b2a3398e0b88c7a7bca06d38ab/tumblr_nrcw99AeXt1suerqbo2_540.jpg lololol http://40.media.tumblr.com/e4a52a3fa846ef66d1958f7a18a85fda/tumblr_nrcw99AeXt1suerqbo9_540.jpg http://36.media.tumblr.com/ca8d330025e8272138c512411721dd42/tumblr_nrcw99AeXt1suerqbo6_540.jpg http://40.media.tumblr.com/896857fa6cd867d1a865f775b222eb0b/tumblr_nrcw99AeXt1suerqbo7_540.jpg http://40.media.tumblr.com/c853b9de350cad3e699b2db902335999/tumblr_nrcw99AeXt1suerqbo8_540.jpg And all the valves on the old engine looked like this. http://41.media.tumblr.com/06e9d16e67b240a0418afaa73526a469/tumblr_nrcwdcEYIN1suerqbo2_540.jpg Currently the engine is out, I need to get an oil pump o-ring, torque convertor bolts. redoing the wiring to get rid of silverado fusebox and have it run into factory fusebox under the dash also threading the collector bolt holes so instead of fighting with nuts/bolts I'll just have ½" bolts to tighten up... Hoping to have it done tomorrow. 295hp and 330tq should really be fun considering the LR4 was only 255hp & 285tq

Go ahead and close this, I found an engine.. Going to pick it up at 8.

wait...what?

I can find pre05 all day...but I'm only going for an 05-07 they made the most horsepower from the factory and had floating wrist pins vs the pressed pins in the 99-04. I know its trivial things that can be done with replacement parts.... But I don't want to pay for something that isn't what in want.... Like guys that want an LQ9 but refuse to buy an LQ4 and change the pistons. But I do appreciate your effort.

Need a LM7 5.3 2005 or newer. Lower miles are better, only bolt on parts I need on it are the alternator and crank pulley and sensors. don't need intake, exhaust, coils, water pump, etc. Have $600 and would like one today or tomorrow. Recyclers want a core, and I want to keep my current engine and rebuild for a spare.

Really wish I could but as of now it looks like the POS10 is going to be down for a good minute.

Nope, pulling the engine out of my POS10 tomorrow. Maybe by the 11th I'll have a new 5.3 in her.

Hell I just need a new stock 4.8/5.3

Well I mean if people are giving/taking donations, Can I get a crowd fund going for a new engine in my truck