31rx7

Sure can take a kart to an autox. They have classes for 125 shifters as well as 100cc regular drive karts. Not sure what the specific rules are, but I would imagine locally they would let you run anything that was close. The local SCCA Solo Chair is Andy Bell and he runs a 125 Shifter. His email and phone is on the OVR SCCA site. Also, Craig on this site runs a shifter and can advise. As far as pushing somebody to make an error, that's different than nudging or punting someone. All is fair there. I was in a race over at IRP and there was a group of six of us going at it hard for 4 or 5 laps, swapping places all the time. Big fun. I screwed up a downshift under hard braking, got axle hop, and just touched the leader in front of me as he entered a right hand turn. Spun him out, and slowed me down while I did everything I could not to hit his passenger side. That was just a very light nudge, and an honest mistake, but I felt like crap as I consider myself a pretty clean racer. After the race, I went over to offer him a beer and apologize, and looked at his car, and it didn't even leave a paint mark. Eight years later, I happen into the same guy, his Dad, and brother down at the 24 hour race at Daytona, and he still busts my chops about it. All in good fun at least.

I've never seen anything like that in sanctioned road racing events. The "Crazy Compacts" class at Columbus Motor Speedway sounds similar in concept to what you are asking about, but it is circle track, not road racing. It is, however, real racing. From what I know, the closest thing to what you are looking for is SCCA's Improved Touring category racing. You can buy an older race ready car for around what you are looking at, although it most likely won't be competitive. But, you will have a bunch of fun. However, SCCA frowns on "rubbing" and you won't even get through Driver's School if you display it. Once you get your racing license, you will get thrown out for repeated infractions. Personally, I don't believe it belongs in road racing at any level, but hey, I'm a guy who did all my own body work and liked to keep my car looking good. If you get to be known as one who uses the chrome horn, your competitors will take you out if the officials don't take care of you first.

Define "cheap". While I have not heard of any "claimer" type classes in road racing for a long time, there may be a club out there somewhere that is doing it. Most of the ones I've heard of are grassroots drag racing or circle track. The most bang for the buck and the closest thinkg to "cheap" in wheel to wheel road racing is kart racing. Check out http://www.msokc.org/ and follow the links for a lot of good "how to get started" info. Next up would be autocrossing and rallycross. The upside is that you can generally use your street car so incremental investment is almost nil. The downside is that seat time is limited to a handful of runs a day and it is not wheel to wheel. It does teach you how to drive and set up your car. For autocross, check out http://www.ovr-scca.org/_autocross/autocrosshome.asp For rallycross check out http://www.ovr-scca.org/_rallycross/rallycrosshome.asp Next step up is a step up in speed. Various clubs do what they call "track days" or "HPDE's" (high performance driving experience) where you drive on a track but there is either no passing or limited passing. NASA has been the pioneer on this although SCCA is starting to do it, and some tracks do it on their own (specifically Nelsons Ledges). Next up would be entry level road racing via SCCA or NASA. For NASA, go to http://www.nasaproracing.com/ For SCCA, go to http://www.ovr-scca.org/index.asp or http://www.scca.org and follow the "How To Get Started" stuff. When I did national level road racing in the mid '90's, my budget was about $1,100 / weekend to run top third of the field. This included travel, vehicle, repairs, expendables, etc. in order to run a competitive effort. I suspect it is closer to double that now because cars and tires are twice as expensive. When I did regional level road racing from 2000 to 2003, my budget was $500 / weekend to run in the top 1/3 of the field. I suspect it is slightly more expensive today, maybe $650. When I did kart racing at Circleville in 1998 to 2000, it was less than $100 / weekend. Probably around $150 today.

I will take them this weekend if you still have them. Rich

On eBay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1971-Honda-CB175-Classic-Pit-Bike-Cafe-Project_W0QQitemZ280283486302QQihZ018QQcategoryZ80647QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Wheels really make it nice. Congrats!

Just read on the Business First of Columbus web site that Mid Ohio Sports Car Course is closing their motocross track.

Engine in search of a good car.

Bump. Open to full or partial trades: - Guitars - Audio / video equipment - Small cars. - Cb750, GL1000 parts - 2 wheel dolly for towing cars - Quality roll around tool box - Whatever!

I kind of like the "panel delivery" custom styling.

1971 Honda CB175. Purchased a couple months ago off of eBay from a young man in Spencerville OH. Reason for selling: 3 bikes is one too many for the wife! I do not have much history on the bike. I bought it on a whim, as I liked the color and lines of it. Plus, I wanted a small bike to take to the race track. So much for that idea! The good: - Complete except for Mirrors, rear tail light lens, baffles in pipes. - New battery. - Starts, shifts fine, brakes work, all electrics work. - All emblems good and on bike. - No funny noises anywhere. - Clean Ohio title in my name. The not so good: - Tank has dent on the right side and corrosion inside. At a minimum, it should be kreemed, but it may be better just to replace it with a good used one if you can find one. - Fuel system needs gone through. Carbs don't leak, but lately the throttle sticks and it revs uncontrollably when started. - Tires are old. They hold air just fine, but I would not run long or fast on them. - Brakes need gone through. They work, but don't seem very strong. But, then again, this is my first bike with a front drum brake so maybe that's the way they are. Still, I would go through them. - A fair degree of minor corrosion and pitting. It would not be too hard to make it look decent, but it would be a lot of work to make it look really good. - Needs new tail light lens and mirrors. - Seat has split along a couple of seams. It may be able to be repaired. - Title incorrectly states mileage at 132,000. The odometer has 13,200 or so, but it was a hassle getting the title from the previous owner as it was, so I did not bother to have him correct it. - There may be additional items that need attention. I have only ridden it 10 miles or so. This would be a decent first bike with a little work, an easy resto project, a great candidate for a cafe racer (my choice), or a good bike to put in the trailer / on the back of the RV when traveling. $600, fairly firm. Open to trades: acoustic guitars, home audio / video equipment, CB750 and GL1000 bikes / parts, maybe a small car (partial to first gen RX7). If it doesn't sell, I will clean it up some more, fix the fuel system, and sell it in the spring. Located in Hilliard near Dublin and Davidson Rds. http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r228/31rx7/1971%20Honda%20CB175/HomePicturesSpringandSummer060.jpg http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r228/31rx7/1971%20Honda%20CB175/HomePicturesSpringandSummer069.jpg http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r228/31rx7/1971%20Honda%20CB175/HomePicturesSpringandSummer061.jpg http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r228/31rx7/1971%20Honda%20CB175/HomePicturesSpringandSummer068.jpg

Fits GM trucks / SUV's, many mid size and large GM cars, some Ford Econoline and Dodge Vans. I bought this for one of my 97 Yukon C1500 but sold it before I could install it. I purchased it at Advance about 3 years ago, and it is a Cardone brand part #20860. Use the following link to see if it fits your car. http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductGuide.aspx?mfrcode=A1C&mfrpartnumber=20860 I am located in Hilliard, near Old Dublin and Davidson Roads. Rich

I didn't jump in on other threads but this one hit a nerve. I have raced for more years than many of the folks here have been alive. Racing or driving on the streets on the edge is just a bad idea. At best, it is a high risk endeavor. Sure it is a thrill, and if some dweeb is eliminated from the gene pool, it is tough for me to feel sorry for them. He wasn't a dweeb for somebody. A Mom, or Dad. A sister or brother. Or his little nephew who thought he was cool and looked up to him. I feel sorry for the people left behind. Mom's, Dad's, sibling's, little kids that looked up to them. Have you ever looked at a loved one that went before their time in a casket? It is just a freaking waste. About 15 years ago, my brother died as a result of biological factors and bad decisions he made that coincided at a single event. He was not a dweeb or a lowlife, and I doubt that the passenger that was lost was worthless either. I think about my brother Mike every day. Not car related, but it is the same thing. There are so many alternatives available that allow us to stretch our abilities and our cars. Doing it on the street is just stupid. I just can't take the casual dismissal of lives. Neither should you. Rich

Really. Nice car. I am not particularly fond of the front and rear fascia's on this model, but yours looks good.

AJ.... I race a Civic and even for me a Smart car would be gay. Who cares what motor is in it. Kinda like big boobs on a midget. What were you thinking? Rich

SOLD! Lock'r up!

This is a good car for what it is. An excellent beater you could drive all winter and sell in the spring for what you have in it. Daughter has put around 30,000 miles on it since purchase, and it seems to do great. I am getting a lot of inquiries on it, but as usual the people never follow up or they want to give me next to nothing for it.

1992 Saturn SL1 automatic. The good: - Goes, stops, and turns fine. - Looks decent. - Reliable. - 30 mpg city. More on highway. - Recent or new tires, brakes, battery, alignment, oil change, tranny fluid and filter. The not so good: - It is s-l-o-w. Possibly the slowest car I have ever driven. - Headliner is falling down. I have it thumbtacked up. - A/C does not work. - Has tranny leak somewhere. I haven't bothered to track it down. - Muffler has hole in it. Details and pictures at: http://columbus.craigslist.org/cto/822467523.html Rich

Sold! Lock'r Up!

I read on an SCCA site that the annual Great Pumpkin Race at the end of October has been cancelled due to rennovation at the track.

I will have the bike with me at Cooper Stadium at the autocrosses this Saturday and Sunday. I am in car STS 81, white Civic.

Bummer. Hope you feel better soon. Thanks for sharing. We all take chances and do stupid stuff, and this is a reminder that we are supposed to do stuff the right way for a reason.

Rotary sounds like a V8? Not over 7,000 RPM!

SHould be happy now...

The turn signals have a mind of thier own. Sometimes they work, sometimes not. The rear brake light is on all the time. The headlight does not work. Basically, the wiring for the lights needs checked. There is likely a short somewhere.