coltboostin

Ha. After I carried on at cars and coffee that I couldn't justify the price delta over an M3????

Yeah we have a deposit on that slate gray car pending an inspection.

Nice. Hope you negotiated down from Toy Barn's rape pricing.

 

Yes, I'm crazy. I'll give Ford another chance on their flagship vehicle that keeps them in business.

 

Thanks to Jordan @ JET Auto Group, he really made buying another vehicle through him a fantastic experience.

Very nice- and cant beat Jordan's service!

Well I need to look into my stock suspension then. Mine feels more like a boat than a well handling sedan. Let me know if either of you are interested. These will likely just be stored away in the basement.

Take Casey's for a drive-see if its appreciably different

Appreciate that JP but they are all you if you want them. I have read they can drop the car up to 2". I don't have Farkas' patience - it would make me want to punch babies.

LOL.

I am in a similar boat. I drive my car, HARD, just about every day y(note to self-delete this post before selling) I am lucky enough to live right next to a state park with a great road, AND A highway-So I go Highway, one exit to work, windy forest on the way home. 5 miles each way for work.

I love the way the car handles now, I really think it’s about perfect. GM did a great job on this thing-and I'd hate to go this route and not be able to enjoy the car.

Springs are still in the mail. Should have them Monday. I have new MM spacers to go with them already. Very hesitant. I do some autocrossing and have a trip to Neslon Ledges planned. If these are softer, I don't want them! I was planning on doing coilovers anyways, but thought this might tide me over tell winter so I could do a cam/head upgrade.

Got ya. May consider but dont want to step on Casey's toes

Well not doing my research in advance has backfired.

 

Let me know if you want to buy some used springs. I bought the set that was on ls1tech, and it turns out they might be softer than what I want.

 

http://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-cts-v/1718944-lowered-v-h-r-springs-w-mm-spacers.html

Assume you have H&R's then? MM spacer in the rear? Are the on the car or are you now just hesitant to put them on?

http://www.ducati.ms/forums/attachments/superbikes/52379d1249397484-superbike-wheels-2009-848-gayrims.jpg

Ballin

Let me tell you why you're literally an idiot:

 

1. You're comparing a cast single piece magnesium wheel made for street use to a modular 3-piece motorsport wheel intended for track use.

 

2. You can disagree all you want, but the truth is real motorsport wheels aren't intended for street use. Magnesium is an alloy that is susceptible to corrosion and doesn't do well with heat. It doesn't necessarily bend, but it cracks under pressure. However, it is much lighter than your traditional aluminum alloy wheel. Cracks are common with these wheels and it is often that teams keep multiple centers on hand in the event a face shows signs of fatigue and cracking.. hence the reason for making them front mounted and modular. They're not intended for street driving for many reasons... let me list them off for you:

a. Magnesium centers to save weight although weaker than aluminum.

b. Thin gauge Aluminum barrels/lips - .23" as opposed to .25", .26", or .28" in some cases that BBS uses. This is done to save weight.

c. Less hardware, sometimes in titanium - look at BBS and other companies and you'll notice they use 30+ bolts as hardware on their wheels... mine has 20, to again, try and save weight.

 

If you think that a Motorsport wheel still sounds like a stronger wheel than a cast aluminum or even magnesium one piece wheel, you're a moron.

 

3. Tracks don't have bridge transitions, potholes, curbs or any ungodly kind of condition you'd find on a public road that would typically slay a wheel like this.

 

4. My father supports me and my brother in our hobby, and from the sounds of it, he probably knows a little more than you about cars in general. But, he's still years behind my brother and I as far as aftermarket and modification knowledge goes.

 

5. My wheels failed because of defective hardware for one reason or another. The wheels themselves would have been fine if the barrels didn't have stress cracks due to the bolt heads shearing off.

 

Honestly, you should probably stick to backyard poverty Colt builds that end up flipping end to end multiple times... you seem to know quite a bit about that, more than anything else.

 

Good game.

Although not a rocket scientist, I am well aware that a thicker, one piece wheel of any alloy will be in most cases stronger than a thinner or multi piece counterpart. I was just dispelling this myth that magnesium +because race ca wheel = you million dollar wheel's failure.

The fact hat you are still trying to fly the flag that a show car driven at show car speeds on the street is harder on a wheel than an race car in a cock sucking race environment is absolutely ridiculous. So ridiculous in fact that there is no point in arguing about it.

The only thing I will take away from this is that there is and will always be young kids out there that have more than they necessarily need, or deserve with the thanks of parents that have maybe over-supported their endeavors in this hobby. An unfortunate byproduct of this is a delusion of ability or knowledge that typically comes with years in actual motorsport. Something that trolling the net, or quoting something you read on uber voretex does not measure up to. When you face this, even the most accomplished racer would not win this E-battle.

Some of these kids are just a flash in the pan. Showing up one day in a new, modded GT2, and gone the next. Some of these kids actually take what opportunities their parents have afforded them to actually become immersed in motorsport. Starting a business or actually engaging in a real race series. Learning from actual experience or the knowledge passed down from people that have been in the game a long, long time. Some wear skinny jeans and buy the most expensive supposedly unusable parts for their car and complain when they fail. True motorsports experts after a few trips to waterfest and the local stance’d meet. Rinse and repeat.

In the end-I am glad you were not hurt when your wheel failed- and glad you figured out the issue. If you are happy with what you have, that’s all that matters 

I don't think he means they're structurally weaker, but when they're built, it's with the intention of being ran on perfectly smooth tracks and not speed bumps, pot holes, etc.. It seems to me that a lot of racing accidents involving this type of wheel does tend to break it, usually the barrel away from the center.

See below. Also do you really think a “stanced’” car driver is even going to attempt a a speed bump at ANY speed?

How would it hold up to the Chicane at Mid-Ohio? Or the Kink at speed?

If you are in traffic or taking the course on a aggressive line you will hit a rumble strip at speed here (and Mid Ohio has pretty mild rumble strips compared to some other tracks I have seen) . If this uber race wheel cant that that- why would you be OK with it failing on a smooth, flat stretch of highway?? El oh El

This. I wouldn't even be able to gauge my level of black out rage if I had some expensive wheels do that and then on top of it they just send replacement parts for ME to fix the wheel with. .

This guy gets it. I am mad just thinking about it.

You guys are ridiculous...

 

As my brother mentioned, just because they're more expensive than your typical wheel doesn't make them bulletproof, or any more resistant to failure than any other wheel on the market.

 

 

Frankly, I'm taking a huge chance even having them on public roads which are anything but glass smooth like most race track surfaces. They're so expensive because they're extremely light and extremely modular and hardly your typical wheel. All of that comes with a price.

You can have a light wheel that will not come apart before you first freaking oil change. Hell, an OE C5 Vette had magnesium wheels!! :dumb:

As far as a track wheel being "weaker" that a street wheel, I 100% disagree with you, and I think anyone that has been on track would. That would be suggesting that slowly street driving your stanced’ car is harder on the wheel than a road race. Your shit came apart on a smooth, flat road. How would it hold up to the Chicane at Mid-Ohio? Or the Kink at speed?

I understand your father has supported you and your brother in your endeavors with cars. Does he have a motorsport background? Ask him if a track wheel is weaker than an OE counterpart. Just think about what you’re implying here.

Give me one pass at full geechie and I will give you a record. No warm up needed.

Good to see zero wheel hop in the burnout.

Geo metro. 5 speed with the skinniest tires possible. Might as well duct tape all the seams while your at it.

 

I've heard they have diesel 3 cyl metros as well but I've never seen one.

Had one. Literally 2 seats, a cluster, and a stearing wheel. I filled up once every 3 weeks, and found a way to get laid IN the car, more than once on Game day.

Savage mode-ON

http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af154/coltboostin/DSC02474.jpg

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/STANCE2_zps3106d068.jpg

I'm with doc on this one.

Yes, the car does look good. But, if I am buying a racehorse, I would take it to the racetrack, not fluf it's main and call it a show pony. I hate that people mod cars and make them less functional than they were in their OEM state. There are plenty of ways to make a car better. Better to me when speaking of a car is making it accelerated faster, stop quicker, or turn harder. best part is you can improve the "look" at each stage of this game.

This guy is doing it right. Improving the car while improving the look at the same time. Hell, it may even be stanced?

http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/showthread.php?t=116560

Doing something solely for the "look" is doing it wrong. But, to each her own.

As for your million dollar one off wheels taking a shit, I would asked them to fly me to their home office to drop the wheel off in person, toss the cracked POS thought their office door, take a shit on their desk, take your refund, and tell them to scam someone else. That could have cost you your car and your life at highway speed. You can get a 5$ wheel forma junkyard that would have outperformed that thing. Think about that……

Have a mechanic write a letter stating the car is inoperable due to xxxxx.

BOOM

Easiest and best way to deal with this. Works every time.

I can't fathom running for that long at full tilt.

On a motorcycle

With may/most of the turns being blind or partially blind entry.

I had this happen with a rental I purchased. Not one drain in the house worked! Rented a 100 foot powered snake and went to town-3 garbage bags of hair/roots/and whatever else-no problems for the last 5 years. I do a once a year ROOT KILL treatment to keep it flowing.

This is a DIY job as long as the pipe is intact.

True, that's a good idea. I'm about due for an oil change and trans fluid change. You know how it is, always want go fast parts. I'll prob end up going this route, as long as the price match applies.

Any explanation on why the under drive pulley is not a good option?

People always complain of enhanced bearing wear due to the lack of harmonic dampening (assuming you are looking at one w/o a dampener)