serpentracer

if you didn't grind the plastic along the crack/seam it will more than likely break apart again.

10 am eh..might just see some of you crazy people there.

I have the ST pads. I got them locally at a (now closed:() holeshot motorsports. the xrac's are very exspensive and more than likely over kill for the average rider. hell I wouldn't imagine 90% of us needing anything more than what the st offers. the "array cooling" is just holes drilled into the pads. it's not a special compound etc. the price might vary from bike to bike but for my R6 was about $76 with tax. well worth it considering they've been on my bike since 2004. here is opp racing they list for $73.90 for both sets (left and right). I'm sure a local shop can order them for you and save you the shipping. http://www.oppracing.com/products/600-ferodo-brake-pads/

some guys never listen LOL. they'll last you about 12k miles. in the long run you will spend more than if you just bought good pads. like I was saying I've got 25k miles on mine and that's track riding also. and they are about 80% gone. I spent $76 for them. and they work so much better. I should let you ride my bike, you'd kick yourself in the nads for going with the ebc.

I"m telling you guys you should get ferodo sintered pads. the best pad I've ever tried. ferodo claims their st pads have the highest braking torque than any other brand of pads. my buddy that has galfers even admitted mine has more braking power than his. and my brother had a set of the ebc and they wore out very fast and weren't that great performance wise like you guys said. they were basically over priced stock pads.

if you want some that work better than Galfer sintered and ebc HH pads that would be Ferodo ST pads. and they last forever. I put these things on my bike in 2004, almost 25k miles ago and they are only 3/4 of the way gone.

I think you missed the part where it was a wrong bulb he had in it.

the inspectors come to look at the work being done. for instance, if I build a deck, I have to show them the plans first and get them approved. second, post holes have to be inspected for correct size and depth. (but oddly they don't have to be inspected with the concrete in them) then they come out to do a final inspection after it's finished. it's just checks and balances really. in springdale(by tri-county mall in cincinnati) they don't charge for permits. but you still have to get one.

I've never seen a R6 with that kind of setup. the R6 has always had 2 seperate lines.

man the company I work for does work at the request of the home owners all the time without a permit. if we get caught without one they pretty much don't give a shit if you give them their money. if you have all the work done already etc. if you show them proof a licensed contractor did the work etc the inspectors tend to go pretty easy on you. also, you've always needed permits to do any kind of major work. it keeps idots from killing people by building things wrong.

well see though how do you know the oil is even worth the extra money. I mean as even that study has shown us, just because it's a synthetic name brand oil doesn't mean it's worth a crap. ps, I've seen a badly damaged low mileage engine that used royal purple oil. I kind of figured that stuff wasn't worth a crap just because of that. but now with a little scientific testing I recon I was right. looks like my feeling about Valvoline oil has also been proven right. it's just a standard dino oil that is out performing synthetics.

from what I've been told not drinking enough fluids is what causes kidney stones. not what you drink.

it's a bad bulb. they are dual filiment for the turn signal. when the filiment breaks it stays illuminated and doesn't blink. it's made like that so you know it's not working. this is very normal.

98hp on a 01 isn't that bad though. that's actually pretty good from what I've seen. most of them are down around 95. my buddies 04 that has a ton of mods put out 109 at the rear tire.

bulb is bad. cars do this too. mine will illuminate the dash signal and stay on.

yes I agree. I hate smokers and all but come on, you damn well know that shit can kill you. it's not something that is made up by doctors its a scientific fact. this country should be ashamed of lawsuits like this. they shouldn't get one dime. so if this guy gets money, who else is entitled for some? are they going to sue the farmers too???

everywhere I've seen it being sold wanted that much for it though. I just still don't understand why any oil is anything more than $5 a quart. it just seems like such a rip off.

ehh. using rotella, a motor oil designed for very low revving diesel engines in a high revving high heat engine in a motorcycle isn't the smartest thing. that's just fucking stupid honestly.

ok I have a question. the price chart per ounce has amsoil at .29 per ounce. right about in the middle of the price range. so how come your oil cost more than all of the other brands on that chart? I wanted some amsoil until I seen the $15/quart price tag. I'm very surprised to see that mobil 1 racing 4T did so well. I just tried that oil and I noticed a few things about it I don't like. for one it's really cloudy and dirty looking straight out of the jug compared to Repsol Sintetico. and smells like oil with 5k miles on it straight from the jug. it's been in for less than a 1k miles and it's already dirty dark brown. something repsol never did. I could change that stuff at 4k miles and it was still cleaner. and now I keep hitting N when shifting to 2nd. I am planing on getting it back out and going back to Repsol sintetico. it's the same price anyway.

it doesn't matter to my fingers and brain. they sometimes go very opposite ways. LOL

ahh I luve the wondering fingrs.

I know but that still isn't the proper way to bed in a set of new pads. you should always start with a 100% clean and flat rotor surface. yes it kind of works but that's like throwing a new clutch in a car and not surfacing the flywheel. just because some of you guys race doesn't mean you know how to properly do things to a bike. and some of the things I hear from some of them are very questionable. I even have this buddy who is a jet fighter mechanic in the airforce. and he doesn't bother to synch his throttle bodies by the air screws like the service manual says to. he's either too lazy or just thinks you don't need to. he uses the screws that connect the flaps together. just because he does it that way doesn't mean it's the right way...

you need to grow a thicker skin. this is a internet forum. the gap is not as bad as people make it out to be. I've been there a ton of times. go out early morning when all the other people are still sleeping or just about to wake up. the cops usually don't show up until 10-11am. they know the crouds don't gather until then. and it's still not really "crouds". most of them sit at the crossroads and bullshit most of the time.

the cherahola sucks. you have to do 100 just to have any fun.

but those are for dishes guys. go to a autobody supply store and buy the real scuff pads made for sanding stuff. it works so much better. plus they are about $1.25 each. but don't take my word for it. LOL. and you are still going to spend a lot of time to get all of the glazing off. that's why real discs for this job are 100 grit and are used with a drill. (for making a true flat surface too) they will look just like a brand new set with all the cross hatching scratches etc. which will set the pads in properly too.