serpentracer

who knew hooping was so popular again? skip to about 1m in http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CyH-nG9z-Yk&feature=related

where'd they find a hula hoop?

nice suit. I've been spending money like it's going out of style. danmoto rearsets. for $166 shipped these things are frigging nice. ss hardware, ball bearing pivots real carbon fiber heal guards (can't believe how strong those thing are) new (superlite) chain/sprockets from drive systems and EK mvxz 520 chain. and fresh paint on rims (by me) . can't see my traxxion dynamics fork parts for obvious reasons. new bt-016pro tires are in the basement. graves slide stops factory pro +4 ignition advancer bmc air filter fast by ferracci dyno tuned map upgraded to larger 05 throttle bodies and air box bike runs like a monster now. killer power in the mid range for a 600. first gear clutchless wheelies are on tap. and a slight slip of the clutch in 2nd is all it takes to bring it up. this bike has never had this much power before. that map is amazing.

you like living on the edge don't ya...

chevy problems= my door panels rattle. $10 fix ford problems= my engine ate my spark plug $1500 fix

ok some of those animals people shouldn't be allowed to have without a permit or something. but talk about an over reaction by lawmakers. something tells me some 300lb lonely woman that has nothing better to do is the one behind all of it. it's the same over reaction to pit bulls. when statistics and scientific studies clearly prove pit bulls are actually less dangerous than some of the most common dogs. they even score better on temperament tests than golden retrievers.

I can tell pretty quick if the person I'm talking to has a clue or not in the first few sentences. if I can tell they're not really up to speed on anything I'm talking about I drop the issue and move on to something else. it's not worth the effort for me to explain shit to them. just like the guy at the awesome small's hardware by my house (fantastic selection of nuts/bolts etc) if they sold safety wire pliers. and he looked at me and said I'm not sure what those are even for. so I said that's ok you don't have to look for them. and paid for my things and left.

cincy is a shit hole but at least I have places to ride that are worth riding.... and next time find us some deals on open finger gloves you id....no no real it in serpent....

cincy is a shit hole but at least I have places to ride that are worth riding....

I was just shitting with ya. don't take offence to it. anyway, they're no different than real insurance companies then. my insurance paid $400 for a air cast for my broken leg when you can go to air cast's website (at the time) and buy the same exact one for $99. and all the idiot guy did was walk out of a fucking office down to my room and put it on my leg and pump it up. made me sign a form guaranteeing a payment from someone of over $400. I said woah buddy I'm not signing that and he said oh don't worry your insurance is covering it. I should have said no anyway. honestly that's the shit that makes your insurance so damn expensive. and the exact kind of stuff that needs to be realed in. some frigging nothing of a company at the hospital made $300+ on a $99 aircast.

I went on a ride with them yesterday and they feel great under my feet. the two issues I had were probably just issues that will exist on my bike only. I totally missed the part on their site that says I will have to modify the spring for the brake light. something people are telling me is normal for aftermarket rearsets. and most rearsets do not include a mount for it or a place to hook the spring to like these do. I did some more standing on them and they flex but not terrible. no more than the stock one did. and nothing came loose. (blue loctite every bolt)

these caught my eye on my spending spree on ebay a few weeks ago. so I looked at their website, http://www.dan-moto.com/DM_US/ and thought their rearsets look 1/2 way ok for $166 shipped. so here's my review, first bare with me I'm not that great of a story teller. lol ok first let me start out by saying I'm ok with them. I ran into a few issues though. but these could be just all my fault. I started out by installing the brake side. everything was bolting up perfectly. until I got to the brake light switch. ok, now these come with a switch holder and a hole drilled in the bracket for the brake. but I think they put the hole up too high. now this can just be my bike here, but since the hole was up so high, my stock spring for the switch was too short. now the factory has a plastic nut thing that you can adjust it. but it doesn't snap into the new bracket completely like it does the stock bracket. so you have to tighten that nut all the way up to the bottom of the switch to hold it tight in the bracket. but in doing so it makes the spring too short to reach the lever hole they put in it for you. now you can do a few things to make it work. I thought about using the stock bracket instead but it's not bent at a 90 degree angle like the new one. so it make the switch hit the back of the rearset. and it would need bent to a 90 to work. but will work.. another thing you could do is get a longer spring. but who wants to drive all over town to find one..not me. so I tried to pull the spring apart just a little but it gave too much. now I had to put a new end on it. but at least I was able to get it at the right length. so it's not a huge deal. being the brake light switch and all. and it's probably a issue with any aftermarket rearsets. and I guess the 3rd thing you could do is drill a new hole lower than the one they drilled. you also have to reuse your stock brake pin and cotter pin. so don't loose them. ok on to the shifter side. this is where things slowed down and I had to scratch my head a few times. since the instructions are not written very well. (just simple unbolt this and put this on kind of instructions) I had to think about how to adjust the rod to get it to work in the frame hole. first of all, I think there is a slight oversight of the design of the lever pivot. as you can see in the pic above.. what it does is put the shift lever tube at too much of an arc in the travel and it hits the top of the hole and the bottom of the hole at full kick to get it into gear up and down. I mean it's right down to the mm of working. and this is where I spend the better part of a few hours bolting it together and pulling apart, adjusting the rod and positioning the part on the trans. now I guess it's all my fault but I think if they made the pivot part a little bit different it would work much better. you really have to get it just right for it to work. also the pivot of the shifter pushes against the chain guard. if you took yours off, no big deal. but it scrapes mine. ok my thoughts.. they seem pretty well made for $166 shipped. I am very pleased with the build of them except for one thing...they used a really soft piece of alum for a spacer behind the footpegs against the bearings. I seen a gap between the head of the bolt and the bracket on the back. so being me I grabbed the socket and wratchet and tightened that sucker down. but I noticed the pivot action was hard. fuck....I took it back apart and it smashed the spacer. if you get a set DON'T OVER TIGHTEN THE FOOT PEGS!. it's completly my fault. but they should have a harder spacer if you ask me. I can get something to work in there. so I'm not that upset about it. and it was my fault. the other thing I'm a little worried about is the bolt length into the footpegs. it only goes in maybe 5/8 of an inch. they drilled the peg out really deep. why they didn't use a longer bolt I don't know. I did step up on one side and it does move a bit. probably about the same as a stock set does though. I'm not sure I'd want to stand on them too much. but I am 230 lbs. the carbon fiber heal guards are incredibly strong. I can't even bend them with my hands. I thought for sure they'd be flimsy and cheap but they're top notch stuff. so in conclusion, they seem made decent. the fit was perfect. (we'll see in a month or two how they work out riding) they are a bitch to install on the shifter side. so be prepared to be annoyed. the brake side might need some ingenuity for the spring length of the brake light switch. (again this might just be mine) blue loctite everything and don't go nuts on the torque of the bolts. so would I recommend these? yes but I'd rather wait and give that out after I get to ride with them and they've been on the bike for a summer. but out of the box I think they're well worth the $166 price tag. first ride. they feel great under my feet. shifting is nice and smooth. better than the stock ones for sure. I guess that's the bearings.

sorry folks. can't sell this tire. I went out today to put my new chain on and found the tire flat from a damn nail. I don't mind riding with a plugged/patched tire but I can't sell it like that.

just sharing an experience. besides, those aren't boots. more like pit worker shoes. and for $69? waste of money.

dude I passed up a deal a few years ago that blew that out of the water. $59 for a pair of technic violator race boots.

like you would? I like how places have started making you get permits and tax papers for a frigging yard sale now:rolleyes:

wait you argued with a counter person at the dealership for a whole 40 min? I think that makes both of you retards. why anyone buys a stock oil filter at the dealer is beyond me. there is a cross reference chart all over the internet for crossing over from bike filters to a car's filter. take that number and head down to the nearest auto parts store and get yourself a 100% better and 1/2 the price filter. like a purolator, wix, bosch, mobil 1, etc.

stay off the street you like to drive on you tax payer burden....

this is why I got a job 9 miles from my house. I can go to work for almost 4 weeks on a tank of gas.

maybe andy did use amsoil. I was almost positive he used rotella. just curious of how much more wear it causes using it vs a oil specifically for high reving engines.

I'd still call. shoei replaces stuff like that up to 7 years.

yeah about 6 years ago. the todd had his own website at one point.

I don't really agree with they don't add value. I'd buy his over a stock one any day. but that's just me i guess. why buy a stock one and run out and buy all that stuff. you're better off getting already installed and part of the deal. but the bike isn't worth 6500 to begin with. not to me anyway.

wonder how much a live beaver is....or a shaved beaver.

I wouldn't know without a set of feelers in my hands and your bike in front of me. lol but .23 -.30 is kinda big. if your min for the exhausts valves were .23 for example and you couldn't get the .23 under it. you know it needs adjusted but not how much. now you have to slide the one feeler under it that just slightly drags on it. that is your measurement. my factory manual has a chart to go by to determine what size you need based on your measurement and what they installed. take mine for example, my exhausts measured .19. (the min is .23mm) they installed a 185 pad. following the chart, if my measurement was between .19-.22 and the 185 pad, I need a 180 pad. and it put my new measurement dead center of the specs again.