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trailer experts - weight distribution issues...


Moto-Brian

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So, I have a Curt Weight Distribution kit for my E350. Fits to the van all pretty like.

However, my trailer is a shorter tongue style and I cannot get the brackets to get back far enough to line up with the spring bar chains.

Here's what I am up against:

Hitch_zpsc45e0e4b.jpg

Any ideas as to how to go about getting this to be done right? Or, am I out the money? I could cut up the base of the trailer body to accommodate the brackets to go back further, but think when lifted into the locked position, the brackets will hit against the trailer body...

I know that drilling holes closer forward is next to impossible as the steel is hardened... Open to thoughts...

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What size us your trailer? It doesn't seem like you would have enough stuff to really need the added CWD kit.

The van is an extended van and the pivot point on the van causes the van to load a ton on the back. Weight distribution on a van works wonders on keeping it level and unloading the front... The trailer is a 17' that has some tongue weight...

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I cant wait to hear about the first time you smack yourself while letting those down. I remember doing it as a kid a few times. Of course I was pretty young at the time and it probalby just gave my dad a good laugh.

Take the weight off with the tounge jack and that won't happen, hellusually don't even need the pipe when you do that

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http://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution/Curt/C17330.html

You are on your own to get the arm lengths.

:D

That's great if I haven't already purchased this thing. Plus, those are a different set of bars to what I have... My set are the round tubes and insert up into the receiver...

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just cut off to length with cut off wheel / chop saw, and drill holes where needed , any machine shop can drill for you.

i did it at home, slow and steady .

our old 24 footer had same problem.

also for your next purchase dont get the round bar stlye, they are old school and really are not the hot set-up , but they will work .

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just cut off to length with cut off wheel / chop saw, and drill holes where needed , any machine shop can drill for you.

i did it at home, slow and steady .

our old 24 footer had same problem.

also for your next purchase dont get the round bar stlye, they are old school and really are not the hot set-up , but they will work .

I was thinking of doing that. I got these cause the deal was WAAAAAY too good to pass up. Brand new sitting in a garage and the guy lived 15 minutes away. I saved over half of new. I figured they weren't the best from what I saw out there, but figured it wasn't a heavy duty trailer or weight and would suffice for what I needed to do.

I know the rate will change the further up the beam, but should just be different in terms of the tension and can accommodate in the chain, correct?

Thanks, man. Knew someone would have had to do this at some point.

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I cannot seem to find any. Are there such a thing? I didn't know there were different lengths...

Call places that sell campers. It's been a while but they usually have shelves of hitch accessories.

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Just take this into consideration if you decide to shorten them. At stock length you have to have a minimum number of links in the chains when hitched. Shortening may require longer chains. Turn left and the distance shortens on the left and lengthens on the right. If your chains are too short bad things can happen. Sag with it all hitched up should be about an inch.

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