vfrrwb Posted April 15, 2015 Report Share Posted April 15, 2015 Looks just like mine..yours is a bit cleaner though and doesn't have 3 kids bikes leaning on it lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAC Posted April 15, 2015 Report Share Posted April 15, 2015 The old 8-spoke on that CB looks like it was made for that bike. I understand your persistence. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gump Posted April 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2015 Got the vfrness, volt gauge, ang sub port. Now to to install everything without messing something up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
max power Posted April 16, 2015 Report Share Posted April 16, 2015 Don't scratch it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bowdog Posted April 16, 2015 Report Share Posted April 16, 2015 That bike is PERDY! got to see it last weekend, nice pick up Gump! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Butters Posted April 16, 2015 Report Share Posted April 16, 2015 Oh hey that sure is a nice wheel.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolfman1 Posted April 16, 2015 Report Share Posted April 16, 2015 Nice bike dude! Always liked how the VFR sounds. A guy who lived next to my apartment complex had one and rode every weekend with it. I used to stand outside and listen to him throttle her up. Hearing that and a buddy pushing me to ride, put me on two wheels the following summer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Butters Posted April 16, 2015 Report Share Posted April 16, 2015 (edited) **edit - I never even noticed that isnt the same wheel as pictured...i was searching ebay for a wheel and realized the 8 spokes were only on non vtec models. lol Edited April 16, 2015 by Steve Butters Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAC Posted April 16, 2015 Report Share Posted April 16, 2015 (edited) I think the eight spokes were gen3. Edited April 16, 2015 by DAC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motocat12 Posted April 18, 2015 Report Share Posted April 18, 2015 Noice! I had a Vtec that I did a gsxr tail swap on, which made it ...The VifferGixxer.Wouldn't mind having that around again, liked to speed though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gump Posted April 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2015 Nice viffer gump. I'm with Bad, check out the charging system, especially the stator to R/R connector. They tend to burn. - I'm a bit of a VFR charging system guru if you have any questions. The on-board voltmeter is a good idea. Frack this VFRness, sending it back. It doesn't fit under the fairing correctly no matter which way you route the wires. I can't find one picture online of a 2007 with the vfrness routed at the plug connection to see the holy grail of how to route this without bowing out the fairing a 1/4". Screw it. Connector looked fine. Putting in a volt meter though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gixxus Christ! Posted April 18, 2015 Report Share Posted April 18, 2015 Bummer. I'd like to take a crack at it before you send it back if you happen to ride into work some day soon and wanna stop by after. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gump Posted April 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2015 (edited) Bummer. I'd like to take a crack at it before you send it back if you happen to ride into work some day soon and wanna stop by after.I appreciate it but there's no room, the connector wires are to short to re-route. Below the hose is no good the fairing is closer there. Shifting the wires toward the front is no good. The relay if fine. It's the height of the green wire and pushing out mess. Maybe if the guy gives me a hard time returning it. Edited April 18, 2015 by Gump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gump Posted April 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2015 Rest of the pics for Ninja doc. The red wires to the right of the battery are the vfrness fuse wires.The shiny black wire is the VFRness being routed along the fuel line under the tank and out from underneath the tank and then the positive red wire that hooks to the battery then the other red wires stay behind the subframe and come out on the other side of the battery to where the bikes other 30 amp fuses are, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NinjaDoc Posted April 18, 2015 Report Share Posted April 18, 2015 thx gump, looks a bit complicated. I guess i should just stay away from things i am not sure of Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mello dude Posted April 18, 2015 Report Share Posted April 18, 2015 My 2 cent are - bad advice begets back advice. While I have much respect for the guy who started us all on the vfr charging system improvement journey, in truth the VFRness is a temporary fix it to have while you have the OEM components. Will it stop the R/R or the stator from failing?.....NOT. So if I'm asked what to do on first glance on an unknown vfr, its always the same.... first test the system to gage the health of the charging system. (I have the procedure if anyone want it.."The Drill" its the same for any bike) Next get a voltmeter up front to watch what is going on. Then if the test shows something is whacked, then fix that. (Best R/R fix.. www.roadstercycle.com best stator... OEM.VFRness? Skip it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gump Posted April 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2015 My 2 cent are - bad advice begets back advice. While I have much respect for the guy who started us all on the vfr charging system improvement journey, in truth the VFRness is a temporary fix it to have while you have the OEM components. Will it stop the R/R or the stator from failing?.....NOT. So if I'm asked what to do on first glance on an unknown vfr, its always the same.... first test the system to gage the health of the charging system. (I have the procedure if anyone want it.."The Drill" its the same for any bike) Next get a voltmeter up front to watch what is going on. Then if the test shows something is whacked, then fix that. (Best R/R fix.. www.roadstercycle.com best stator... OEM.VFRness? Skip it.Skipping it. It's charging fine now. I think the majority of the issues were 2006 and prior. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pokey Posted April 19, 2015 Report Share Posted April 19, 2015 My 2 cent are - bad advice begets back advice. While I have much respect for the guy who started us all on the vfr charging system improvement journey, in truth the VFRness is a temporary fix it to have while you have the OEM components. Will it stop the R/R or the stator from failing?.....NOT. So if I'm asked what to do on first glance on an unknown vfr, its always the same.... first test the system to gage the health of the charging system. (I have the procedure if anyone want it.."The Drill" its the same for any bike) Next get a voltmeter up front to watch what is going on. Then if the test shows something is whacked, then fix that. (Best R/R fix.. www.roadstercycle.com best stator... OEM.VFRness? Skip it. I would be interested in the procedure you use to test the charging system, I already have a digital voltmeter installed and it matches my Fluke meter in voltage displayed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dizzledan Posted April 19, 2015 Report Share Posted April 19, 2015 This is the guide I used to find the faults and upgrade the charging system in my 07 Triumph Daytona 675. Another model plagued by charging system woes. http://www.triumph675.net/forum/showthread.php?t=35227 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gump Posted April 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2015 Stuck this waterproof voltage gauge in today. Wired the positive to the battery thru a fuse with a bullet connector near the battery too easily disconnect for storage. Sucks in the sun but there aren't many options this small or locations to mount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mello dude Posted April 19, 2015 Report Share Posted April 19, 2015 (edited) I would be interested in the procedure you use to test the charging system, I already have a digital voltmeter installed and it matches my Fluke meter in voltage displayed.I'm from the keep it simple stupid school of thought. If you knock out and write down the numbers from the list below, 95% of the time, if there is a problem, it will be obvious. It got named the drill, when someone asked, --"Whats that drill you use to test the charging system?" Use it, it works..... Sorry for your electrical troubles. Well, looks like you gotta do…. “The Drill.”Go through all your connectors for burnt leads, dig deep. Crispy wires? Not good. Your gonna have to fix that! Then---Go through this starting point quick list. You will need a multimeter too.Steps:- Recharge battery overnite - then to take it to Autozone, Batterys Plus or similar to load test. -- Good? Bad? – An iffy battery can fake you out and act like a bad R/R. Buy new if needed.- With good battery fire it up, warm up for a minute or two.These are R/R quick checks------ With voltmeter at battery get voltages -- idle volts? 5000 rpm volts? What’s the numbers? Should be in 13ish min idle and in 14s at revs. If in the 12s at idle, try at 1900 rpm. (It’s not unusual for the system to be in discharge or no charge at idle.)- Check stator- 1. Pull connector apart. Set meter to resistance. Check pin to pin stator side, 3 yellow wires, A to B, B to C, C to A. What’s the numbers? 3 separate readings --Should be less than 1.0 ohms. (Engine off)- 2. Check continuity from each A,B,C pin stator side to ground, -- -should be infinity - nada nothing. no continuity. -- 3 separate checks. (Engine off, again connector is apart)- 3. Crank it back up. Do another pin to pin thing, but set meter on AC volts. idle and 5000 rpms. What's da numbers? Should start 15 -20ish and climb 50ish and more. Again – 3 readings stator side connector and still apart.- Repeat hot. ---- You would need to do this if you bike seems fine for awhile, but once getting on the hot side, the charging goes south. Ususally its stator insulation effing up when hot. This quick list will catch the obvious stuff, but if you need to dig deeper check this chart. (Some guys like this chart, my taste, I don’t care for it.)http://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf Edited April 19, 2015 by mello dude Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykill Posted April 21, 2015 Report Share Posted April 21, 2015 Anyone want a shot at my electrical woes before I drop it off at a dealer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gump Posted April 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2015 Anyone want a shot at my electrical woes before I drop it off at a dealer?What is it not doing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motocat12 Posted April 21, 2015 Report Share Posted April 21, 2015 I'm near Polaris, Used to have a gen5 vfr, soldered connectors,replaced stator,R/R. Yeah, what's it doing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykill Posted April 21, 2015 Report Share Posted April 21, 2015 Basically it's not charging now. Battery willDie if I leave it in the bike. I've replaced RR, Stator, and battery was new last year when I was trying to fix it. Not sure what else to do and electrical stuff confuses me. The dash and headlights will turn off too if it's already running. Then battery will die. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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