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Rabbit's 2017 TOR Yamaha R6 race build


TwiztedRabbit

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Ok guys, I've had a few people ask for this over the last day so why not. I will be updating as we accomplish things...  

So over the last few years I've  been racing off and on  between coaching and playing around. After taking a Hwt Twins championship and 7th in 600 superbike novice in 2017. I've decided to take my Racing a bit more serious. I know other than WERA and CCS it wont go anywhere, but its all about the fun for me. The second it becomes  a chore or I'm not having fun it's time to stop. That said my buddy Joe and I decided that if we are going to do it... lets start fresh. I'll post here too but PLEASE check out Turn One Racing on FB  it's my friends race shop where we are doing all the work. and he is my main "Sponsor" this upcoming year.

So I present to you  Rabbit's (Jason) Turn One Racing Yamaha R6 Racebike build.

 

 

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After uncrating mindless disassembly can be fun! It takes only us few hours for a complete chassis breakdown. Most of the time was spent making plans, parts list and prepping parts for sale that I will not be using.  At this stage we finalized the paint scheme and the stripped the wheels and send them off for powdercoat. After cleaning and inspection, the real fun assembly can begin.

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  • Tonik pinned this topic
9 minutes ago, Tonik said:

This is awesome. I pinned it to the top so it doesn't get lost. Almost think we should move it to tech or track or maybe daily ride for better visibility.

Ballpark guess what this is going to cost?

Whatever you think would work best @Tonik,  I can tell you about what it would cost based on Retail prices but I'm not willing to discuss  my cost on parts/ labor and so on being as he is sponsoring a portion of my gig. 

 really the total cost comes down to how hard ya want to go, i'll go into more depth about parts / brand /  installation as we go but roughly

Bike is roughly $12,000 brand new
Motor work $3,000 - $4,500 depending on supersport or superbike build and the depth I will be staying superstock legal but running both SS and SBK classes

Bodywork / bolt ons (eg, rearsets, case covers, bars, levers ) $2,000

Brakes, lines, pads ABS delete $700ish

suspension $2,500

ECU flash, dyno tuning ,Translogic Quickshifter and Autoblipper $ $2,000ish

and then there are small parts, fluids,paint, powdercoat ect...

so I'd say from start  of nothing to buying a bike and going bawls deep.. $24,000 to the sky is the limit... I have a buddy with a $50,000 zx6r  just because lol..

 

some of the small details that no one will ever see but we do (and I will show) really make this bike tight and just top notch

NOW for knowledge.. this bike is going to be WAY better than I am, the things this bike will have are far more than I need, but you prepare for success and utilize as you grow. so set it up right the first time and  tweek as you go to suit you. 

 

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1 hour ago, jacobhawkins said:

Very cool!  Somewhat side note, are you planning on going to Jennings this winter?  Thought that happened a few times before and I'd like to think I could go.  When do you hope to have the R6 ready to race?

We hope to make a trip in February or March for our annual track rental.. I should hope to have details by  mid Dec or Jan. really depends if the bike is ready.. we are taking our time  hope to be  finished by mid Feb!

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So top mount dampers like a GPR make it difficult to quickly get through tech or access  under the tank for maintenance. So we decided on a Ohlins  under mount damper. The ignition switch removal is necessary for clearance, obviously something that can't be don't for a street bike. Triple clamp modification is not necessary  but it sure does look nice and clean and saves the 1 gram that makes it faster than every other R6 :p . The Steering stop is something a lot of people overlook its easily broken in a crash. Graves makes this really cheap and trick piece to sold 2 problems. 1 it helps  beef up the steering stop and 2. keeps the damper from topping/bottoming when  the bars hit the ground and causing potential damage. We had to grind the frame flat for a tight fit and drill and tap the frame for mounting

Parts Added

Ohlins 68mm Damper
Graves Damper Mount
Graves Steering Stop

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14 hours ago, TwiztedRabbit said:

There is a good possibility that after all this is done. all I will be able to do is stare at how pretty she is,  damn money pits haha!

 

Better than a boat sitting at the dock and costing you the same as this build every year to keep afloat. 

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Rear shock removal can be a lengthy job as you need to lift the tank and remove the top clevis. During routine service and more so during a track or race weekend,  Time is a commodity. Shaving the frame is legal in race applications and allows for the top shock mount to be removed with the clevis in place. Realigning the lower shock and linkage mounts allow for quick and easy removal. Making spring, valving and maintenance possible in a moments notice. Add a few captive nuts and shock removal literally happens in a matter of seconds. 

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On to Chassis assembly: We clean out the hint of grease that the factory puts on moving parts. Its seriously pathetic how little they have, it's barely noticeable.  Then we pack the bearings with high quality low friction grease. Properly assemble and torque all moving parts of the chassis, to assure proper spec and function of all moving parts. 

 

Last picture is start of assembly using stock shock as a placeholder

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Race prepping is essential for fast access, ease of use and increased crash ability. Everything we do before hand is to make the everyday stuff easier.  Relocating the main harness inside the frame rail and routing the front loom inside the forks shelters and protects it from rash or slower competitors. Fixing the ram air tube to the fairing stay allows for easier bodywork mounting. Heat reflective tape helps manage heat from the engine. Captive rear caliper carrier, spacers and chamfered pads for effortless wheel changes. We cap all non utilized electrical connectors for disassembly/assembly.  
First pic is of factory harness location

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