durk Posted July 9, 2021 Report Share Posted July 9, 2021 I’m full of questions tonight gentlemen. I’m trashing rear tires in 2000 miles on the Concours. I’m getting raised trailing edges. On the far sides of the tire I’m wearing the leading edges down to near nothing. Everything I read says it’s rebound speed. I have the rebound turned all the way in and the preload cranked all the way down. I’m wondering if I changed the spring on the rear shock for a heavier one if it would help the problem. It also seems to me that I’m tearing the tire a bit. I know @Paulymentioned an A-spec tire. Do you think that will help? I’m not sure it will change the raised trailing edge. Is this just a sport touring bike problem I’m going to have to learn to live with? I know I had a similar problem on the CBR riding 2 up, but I was able to just crank a little extra pre-load into the spring. It seem to do the trick. That’s why I’m wondering if I just re-sprung the thing if it would help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MSerfozo Posted July 9, 2021 Report Share Posted July 9, 2021 10 hours ago, durk said: Everything I read says it’s rebound speed. I have the rebound turned all the way in and the preload cranked all the way down. I’m wondering if I changed the spring on the rear shock for a heavier one if it would help the problem. That’s why I’m wondering if I just re-sprung the thing if it would help. I'm not an expert, but rebound turned all the way in sure doesn't seem right. That can cause your rear tire to lose contact after a bump. Have you measured your sag? If you're a bigger guy on a bigger bike, you may need it preloaded all the way with a stock spring but unless you measure sag, you can't know. I have an extra 800 lb/in Eibach spring you can have if it'll fit your Connie. It's currently on a '03 'busa shock. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pauly Posted July 9, 2021 Report Share Posted July 9, 2021 How many miles on the bike? The rear shock could need rebuilt/replaced. I agree the damping screws should not be fully turned one way or the other. I used to chew through rear tires on the Multistrada in <2500 miles on a Gap trip. I was 1-up and running fully adjustable Ohlins front and rear. I can see how a heavy bike, 2-up with OEM spec suspension could burn through a tire in the same manner. Personally, I would start with a high end shock set to factory suggested settings and see how it goes from there. Your pic doesn't look that bad in my opinion. It's been hot and you know how to ride. Tires have to compensate for inadequate suspension. This causes premature wear for sure. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
durk Posted July 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2021 7 hours ago, Pauly said: How many miles on the bike? The rear shock could need rebuilt/replaced. I agree the damping screws should not be fully turned one way or the other. I used to chew through rear tires on the Multistrada in <2500 miles on a Gap trip. I was 1-up and running fully adjustable Ohlins front and rear. I can see how a heavy bike, 2-up with OEM spec suspension could burn through a tire in the same manner. Personally, I would start with a high end shock set to factory suggested settings and see how it goes from there. Your pic doesn't look that bad in my opinion. It's been hot and you know how to ride. Tires have to compensate for inadequate suspension. This causes premature wear for sure. Bike has 12,000 miles. I agree dampening screw should not be fully turned in, but I thought I’d try something. Everything I read said to speed it up. The bike handles fine. I can tell it rides stiff but not much different than the CBR. I originally had the same problem on the CBR but figured it out. The preload on it has different notches. For me solo I have it set on the 6th notch. When I ride 2 up I increase it to the 9th notch and touch nothing else. This tire is definitely still usable, but I’m getting a u-shaped ridge near the edge of the chicken strips. I’m not sure how comfortable I am with riding my normal 500 mile day trips on it. As far as replacing with a high end shock. I’m too cheap. I did look up a replacement spring and may go that route eventually. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pauly Posted July 9, 2021 Report Share Posted July 9, 2021 Turning the screw in fully would slow damping, not speed it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2talltim Posted July 9, 2021 Report Share Posted July 9, 2021 Im assuming your running no less than 42 psi in them hoops? sometimes fully loaded ill put 43 in them. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pauly Posted July 9, 2021 Report Share Posted July 9, 2021 20 minutes ago, 2talltim said: Im assuming your running no less than 42 psi in them hoops? sometimes fully loaded ill put 43 in them. Yep. My bike calls for 43R/37F. Not sure what a Connie weighs, but the GSA is mid-500s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
durk Posted July 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2021 (edited) 46 minutes ago, Pauly said: Turning the screw in fully would slow damping, not speed it up. Well this could be my issue. I’ll have to try going the other way. I thought I read in the manual for higher speed riding you want to turn the dampening in. I was going with that and I was struggling to figure out if setting dampening to harder was speeding up or slowing down. Connie weighs 650 I believe. 28 minutes ago, 2talltim said: Im assuming your running no less than 42 psi in them hoops? sometimes fully loaded ill put 43 in them. 42 rear 38 front Edited July 9, 2021 by durk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pauly Posted July 10, 2021 Report Share Posted July 10, 2021 To be a little more clear.. turning the screw in would make it more bumpy at speed. It doesn't speed up the damping. It restricts hydraulic flow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonik Posted July 10, 2021 Report Share Posted July 10, 2021 22 hours ago, durk said: I have the rebound turned all the way in and the preload cranked all the way down. Preload cranked all the way down as in lowest possible preload? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muckles Posted July 10, 2021 Report Share Posted July 10, 2021 18 minutes ago, Pauly said: To be a little more clear.. turning the screw in would make it more bumpy at speed. It doesn't speed up the damping. It restricts hydraulic flow. Yeah I had a heck of a time understanding this when I got my new suspension installed. I just have to tell myself that adding a positive adjustment is increasing dampening. Both with rebound and compression. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonik Posted July 10, 2021 Report Share Posted July 10, 2021 47 minutes ago, Muckles said: dampening Oh now you did it. That is @Pauly 's trigger word. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pauly Posted July 10, 2021 Report Share Posted July 10, 2021 55 minutes ago, Muckles said: Yeah I had a heck of a time understanding this when I got my new suspension installed. I just have to tell myself that adding a positive adjustment is increasing dampening. Both with rebound and compression. 7 minutes ago, Tonik said: Oh now you did it. That is @Pauly 's trigger word. Is it wet in here? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muckles Posted July 10, 2021 Report Share Posted July 10, 2021 Tomato toemato 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pauly Posted July 10, 2021 Report Share Posted July 10, 2021 19 minutes ago, Muckles said: Tomato toemato No. It would be tomateno. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
durk Posted July 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2021 1 hour ago, Tonik said: Preload cranked all the way down as in lowest possible preload? Preload is actually a turn knob. Weird deal in my opinion. I have it tight as it goes. To me this is compressing the spring as much as possible. Adding as much preload as possible is my thoughts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonik Posted July 10, 2021 Report Share Posted July 10, 2021 1 minute ago, durk said: Preload is actually a turn knob. Weird deal in my opinion. I have it tight as it goes. To me this is compressing the spring as much as possible. Adding as much preload as possible is my thoughts. Is that too much and is that making it bounce? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
durk Posted July 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2021 2 hours ago, Pauly said: To be a little more clear.. turning the screw in would make it more bumpy at speed. It doesn't speed up the damping. It restricts hydraulic flow. Now I’m back to my original thought. Turning the screw in speeds up dampening. I’m just reading the tire according to track riders and Dave Moss I think it was. Here is what the manual says as well. I would guess my speed is high and that’s why I chose the settings I did. I started softer and have progressively tightened things down. The bike has handled better for the most part with tightening things. For solo riding I could probably back things off a touch and it still handles well. Backing off much however loses feel for the road. 12 minutes ago, Tonik said: Is that too much and is that making it bounce? Possibly. On the CBR that position 9 I referenced is 1 click from the hardest setting 🤷♂️. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pauly Posted July 10, 2021 Report Share Posted July 10, 2021 https://www.motorcyclistonline.com/suspension-setup-101-part-ii-all-about-damping/ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pauly Posted July 10, 2021 Report Share Posted July 10, 2021 https://forum.concours.org/index.php?threads/setting-the-suspension-on-the-c14.11199/ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2talltim Posted July 10, 2021 Report Share Posted July 10, 2021 I have found there is no text book suspension settings for me on the connie. I like mine stiff and fast. Fast as in quick responding. When its adjusted like that for me that equals a harsh ride and quick tire consumption. It also equates to best feel of the road and tight handling. I too have encountered the feathering of the tire when loaded down or 2up. Just had to learn to back it off a bit to conserve my equipment. You have to think 700 lb bike + 200-400lb occupants + 40 ish lbs luggage = a lot of forces on a bike that wants to drag hard parts. You want better tire wear your going to give up handling. There is no answer to this. I have ate a tire on a gap trip in 1700 miles before, i have also gotten 2 gap trips out of a tire before. I have just learned to be more conservative when I need to be. this pic is that 1700 mile tire i spoke of.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
durk Posted July 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2021 1 hour ago, 2talltim said: I have found there is no text book suspension settings for me on the connie. I like mine stiff and fast. Fast as in quick responding. When its adjusted like that for me that equals a harsh ride and quick tire consumption. It also equates to best feel of the road and tight handling. I too have encountered the feathering of the tire when loaded down or 2up. Just had to learn to back it off a bit to conserve my equipment. You have to think 700 lb bike + 200-400lb occupants + 40 ish lbs luggage = a lot of forces on a bike that wants to drag hard parts. You want better tire wear your going to give up handling. There is no answer to this. I have ate a tire on a gap trip in 1700 miles before, i have also gotten 2 gap trips out of a tire before. I have just learned to be more conservative when I need to be. this pic is that 1700 mile tire i spoke of.. Thanks for your input. I did conserve the first 2 days and things weren’t bad. Tory kept asking when I was going to stop being conservative. On the third day there was no holding back. I never had to hold back on the CBR. I guess I’ll have to adjust or get a bigger tire fund. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2talltim Posted July 10, 2021 Report Share Posted July 10, 2021 23 minutes ago, durk said: t or get a bigger tire fund. This is always the correct answer for me on the Connie. 3000 that's is my average rear tire mileage. I never wait till i need them to order a set. Usually have a standby set sitting in the garage. Usually get 2 rears to one front, but that front will be a little iffy at the end of that second rear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
durk Posted July 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2021 1 minute ago, 2talltim said: This is always the correct answer for me on the Connie. 3000 that's is my average rear tire mileage. I never wait till i need them to order a set. Usually have a standby set sitting in the garage. Usually get 2 rears to one front, but that front will be a little iffy at the end of that second rear. The front seems to be wearing fine. I think I can definitely get a little more out of the rears than I have so far. I just replace the rear right before the tail trip because the tire I had on there was definitely not going to make the whole trip. I usually get 6000 out of a set on the CBR. My concern is it starting to look like it may be three rears to one front. I read over on COG Where a guy said that’s typically his MO. Three rears to one front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonik Posted July 10, 2021 Report Share Posted July 10, 2021 Another option is to use the tire money to finance a wing. Here is 5k on the Dunlop Elite 4s rear. It will go 15. If you want the softer factory Bridgestones you will get 10. I adjust my preload with a button. Damping can be done while moving. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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