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N2O question


blazinjr

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I have a NX mainline kit that I bought new. 50 or 75 hp shot. I bought a MSD window switch, stock R/T Neon PCM because my Mopar advances the timimg too musch, and some longer fuel and nitrous line from the solenoids. I need to get a purge kit, WOT switch, blow down tube, and gauges to complete it.

 

My question is how have you guys tuned your cars after installing nitrous? Dyno? Wideband o2?

 

I have been told to purchase a wideband o2 setup. Do you guys really think I need to spend the money for it or just buy the wideband sensor and try and find someone that already has a setup to help me tune my car?

 

I want to get this on my car before I go up to the track this summer.

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Originally posted by blazinjr:

I have a NX mainline kit that I bought new. 50 or 75 hp shot. I bought a MSD window switch, stock R/T Neon PCM because my Mopar advances the timimg too musch, and some longer fuel and nitrous line from the solenoids. I need to get a purge kit, WOT switch, blow down tube, and gauges to complete it.

 

My question is how have you guys tuned your cars after installing nitrous? Dyno? Wideband o2?

 

I have been told to purchase a wideband o2 setup. Do you guys really think I need to spend the money for it or just buy the wideband sensor and try and find someone that already has a setup to help me tune my car?

 

I want to get this on my car before I go up to the track this summer.

Is it a wet or dry kit? If it's wet, you can tune your A/F by jets alone.

 

oh, and Dr. Z06. Are you referring to having your cobra tuned? or the Z?

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Wow, Thats on the west side of Columbus. A little bit of a drive for me. It takes me about a hour to get up by Ricarts depending on the traffic.

 

Once I get the kit installed and ther rest of my parts come in I'll give them a call. Maybe I'll finally get to meet a couple of you guys.

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Guest mudbutt

If you are closer to dayton. We do tuning at Kammer and Kammer. http://www.kammerracing.com/KMR/

 

 

Originally posted by Great Googley Moogley:

true but doesnt answer the question of which is better.

in my experience both street and dyno are crutial for proper tuning. A load bearing dyno(like superflow or mustang) help to simulate real load but they arent the same and it is much more expensive. The way I usually set it up is 1st by getting a good rough cut on the street using wbo2, egts, and plug indexing to make the car drivable both under cruising and wot conditions. Then to the dyno where you can fine tune fuel and timing to make optimum power also using the same indicators as above. After that back to the street and track if applicable.
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Originally posted by Mud Butt:

If you are closer to dayton. We do tuning at Kammer and Kammer. http://www.kammerracing.com/KMR/

 

 

in my experience both street and dyno are crutial for proper tuning. A load bearing dyno(like superflow or mustang) help to simulate real load but they arent the same and it is much more expensive. The way I usually set it up is 1st by getting a good rough cut on the street using wbo2, egts, and plug indexing to make the car drivable both under cruising and wot conditions. Then to the dyno where you can fine tune fuel and timing to make optimum power also using the same indicators as above. After that back to the street and track if applicable.

Same way I would go about it.

 

With nitrous, there really should no street tuning necessary. Since a wet nitrous system isn't something that will effect fueling globally, its safe to say, you can do a dyno tune with the reccomended ignition retard from the manufacturer, then adjust jetting and what not. Three runs should be enough to nail down a good A/F and make sure there is no knock.

 

It’s a hell of a lot easier to tune with the car in one place, and being able to look at your laptop or scan tool to make sure everything is ok.

 

Street tune is crucial in most applications, as well as a friend who can watch and log information for further tuning. Kind of sucks though, if you are too far off base, might not have time to react if you’re doing it yourself, then reviewing logs.

 

I would be content with good A/F ratios, no knock, and good looking plugs after the dyno pulls.

 

Please re-gap your spark plugs, and at least go one step colder.

 

<3

Nate

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