Brake Oil - noob question

[prakthad]

Hi,

This is a used bike I bought. I took it to Motorsports of Columbus a couple of weeks back for a service (before I read the reviews on this site). They said that the brake oil I have in the bike is the clearest they have ever seen and is a racing brake fluid. The fluid is currently between Max and Min and I will have to look at replenishing or replacing it soon. I was wondering how I can find out what brake fluid is in the bike so I can replenish it with a same or similar one.

From what I was told, it would be cheaper to get it flushed and replaced with normal brake fluid. Does that make a big difference in braking? Is that a better idea or should I stick with racing brake fluid that is in the bike and how do I get some more of it?

Thanks.

[Earache]

Just get DOT 3 or 4, 5 or whatever is specified for your bike and buy a reputable brand. I can't think of a way to find out what brand is already in there without knowing who put it in.

[exSRAaron]

motul racing is good stuff..high boiling point...necessary...hmmm...i doubt on the street.

[prakthad]

I have to match whats already in the system if I want to replenish it , which means I have to flush the system right?

I do have a track day coming up but I'm just a novice so I doubt it will make any difference there either. I guess I will just get the regular brake oil.

[shittygsxr]

If it is nice and clean why do you need to replace it?

[prakthad]

Well, I'm not thinking of replacing it right away, but it is closer to the Min than the Max and I cannot replenish it because I don't know what to top it up with. So when it does drop a little lower, I will have to flush the system, right?

[Dweezel]

no, check your pads. there is no reason it should drop unless you've got a leak. wearing pads will require more fluid in the caliper/piston and appear as if the level is getting low. When you push the pistons back in to replace the pads with new pads it will magically reappear.

Check your pads.

[kawi kid]

on a little trip i took the other day i actually got some brake fade for the first time ever. think its possible im needing new brakes

[Moto-Brian]

If a dealer calls it Brake oil, you need to thank them for their suggestion and turn and walk away. Most brake FLUID is clear. Some dye theirs for unknown reasons, but if it was the clearest he has seen, he's retarded.

My suggestion echoes the others. Buy something from Motul, Maxima, Repsol, etc and you'll be fine to mix it. Buy a high temp fluid as it will last you longer.

Thing is, if it is just shy of half between Min and Max, you're 100% fine. Also note that if the fluid is clear, it hasn't broke down much and is actually at the best it can be. It is why most fluids are clear now as the darker it gets, the more it has been abused and needs relaced.

You can mix most brake fluids. Watch the sythetics (which I think are pretty much phased away and non existant) as they can gel when mixed with DOT 3, 4, etc. Most will state what they are compatible with...

[BDBGoalie]

Use a DOT 3/4 with the approiate boiling point. I prefer ATE, but that stuff isn't cheap.

As Lizard said, Brake oil is non-existant, I'd worry about the salesman trying to sell something he does not fully understand.

[Benyen Soljax]

unless you race i would just go to napa and get the regular DOT 4 or whatever ur bike wants. motorcycle specific stuff is entirely too expensive for use on the street, as you will never need those extra few degrees.

[prakthad]

Motorsports of Columbus had told me about this Brake oil thing. I don't trust those guys at all now...they kept my bike for 3 days and returned it to me with the chain too tight....it has 0 play !

I'm going to take it back to them tomorrow.

[01929rr]

freaking tards man buy a manual and do all the basics yourself its simple some of us guys wouldnt mind showing you a few things

[12oclocker]

Motorsports of Columbus had told me about this Brake oil thing. I don't trust those guys at all now...they kept my bike for 3 days and returned it to me with the chain too tight....it has 0 play !

I'm going to take it back to them tomorrow.

just because they work at a shop, does not mean they know what they are doing! A honda tech put the timing on my friends 929 1 tooth off! and F'ked his entire engine! he was hearing noise in the engine, he decided take the top off and check this thing out, (not trusting the honda tech again!) the valve was smashing into the piston, and we noticed the timing was 1 tooth off! Another friend of mine took his bike in for a simple oil change, and filter change, the guy put the wrong oil in it, nearly stripped the drain bolt, didnt put the washer back over the bolt, and broke a plastic part which helps retain the air filter. and lost some fairing hardware.. THEN! tried to charge my friend for the shit he f'ked up!!! I have more stories but maybe another day, lol

So yeah, I recommend if you ride, KNOW a good mechanic, KNOW his work, or know how to do stuff yourself. Now days I dont trust anyone to touch my stuff, I do it myself.

And just the fact they used the words 'brake oil' would convince me never to go back to that place again!

[exSRAaron]

when i had MOC put my chain on a few years back they also put it on alil too tight..

[natedogg624]

same goes for comp acc in the dayton/springfield area.

never trusting anyone but myself to do my own work. even if it takes 4 weeks to do engine work at least i did it myself so if i screw up i have only myself to blame

plus it saves a TON in labor costs, and you get to work on your bike.

schwing!

[BDBGoalie]

More importantly, you know how to fix whatever breaks when the time comes.

[bigbluebird]

oh and if you are going to work on your bike get the right tool for the job. it may cost you up front but not having to replace a 60 dollar part (oil filter bolt on a 73 honda 350f is 11mm not 12mm) because you didn't have a 4 dollar socket is always going to be a stupid move.

[ReconRat]

Brake Fluid is generally clear, and turns yellow with age, and later brown. Most of the change in color is from absorbing water from the air, the humidity. Brake fluid is hydroscopic, meaning it readily absorbs water. Water in the brake fluid makes the brake feel "spongy". If I found new brake fluid in a can that was yellow, I'd probably throw it out, and try again.

Dweezel is right, when the fluid goes down, it's generally from the brake pads wearing down. New pads will bring the fluid back up to it's normal level.

Some manufacturers recommend draining and changing DOT 3 and 4 brake fluid every two years. ABS systems need changed more often. Seems like DOT 5 should be changed every year. Not sure.

DOT 3 and 4 are glycol/alcohol fluids, or synthetic. DOT 5 are silicone or synthetic. Synthetic never means 100% synthetic for any fluid. It means a blend. DOT 4 is same as DOT 3 with a higher heat range. DOT 3/4 is telling us it's a compatible replacement for either, it's a DOT 4. DOT 5 is the highest heat range, and is generally a light purple color. IF not sure, take a sample, and mix it with DOT 3 or 4, if it turns into a goop that looks like Italian salad dressing, you have a DOT 5 in there. Changing from DOT 3 or 4 to DOT 5, or back, means dis-assembling the entire system and removing the "other fluid". They cannot be mixed together. Seals might be effected by the change of fluid type, it depends on the type of seal material. In aircraft brake systems, mixing the two together can cause a fire in the fluid or brake systems. DOT 5 fluids do not absorb water, which means if and when water gets in there, it finds a place to park, and corrode the metal. Not a good thing in a brake system. Probably the best reason to change DOT 5 every year. So in other words, use what the owner's manual recommends, and change it more often. Changing it when installing new pads, or when the fluid changes color, is also a good idea.

Edit: Just noticed the DOT 5.1, which is a glycol/alcohol fluid of even higher heat range. New to me. Not to be confused with DOT 5, the silicone type. Sounds like something I'll be looking into.

a reference: http://www.motorcycleproject.com/motorcycle/text/cows-brakefluid.html