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What size converter?


99crb600

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Personally I'd lean towards a 4000, but I would keep the STR down closer to 2.0. Not all converters are created equal and doing your homework will pay dividends. There is lots of info on LS1tech, but my opinion would be somewhere between a loose 3500 or a tight 4000. When you have a clue what I'm talking about start making phone calls to people who make converters.
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I dont see how people can drive 4000's. Even the tight ones are jerkey as shit when daily driving.

 

I'll be finding out first hand this spring, I don't think it'll be all bad playing with the lock up function and holding 3rd at lower speeds if I have to but we'll see. I'm running a smaller cam and my car doesn't see it's real torque band until 4000 so I'm not going to cut down on my stall. I've been in a few 3500-3600 stall cars and I think they drive fine and how well it does on the street is just a matter of good tuning and opinion.

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I dont see how people can drive 4000's. Even the tight ones are jerkey as shit when daily driving.

switch pitch stator!

 

1000 rpm stall in town...4500 at the track!:bangbang:

 

alot goes into a converter, to make it what you want/need.

 

mine, 9.5" billet with a 1" thick anti ballooning plate. 4800 stall...granted, i can foot brake it to about 3200 or so..on the brake tho..its going to be a new ball game. and i know 3rd gear isnt going to slip any more :o

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I'll be finding out first hand this spring, I don't think it'll be all bad playing with the lock up function and holding 3rd at lower speeds if I have to but we'll see. I'm running a smaller cam and my car doesn't see it's real torque band until 4000 so I'm not going to cut down on my stall. I've been in a few 3500-3600 stall cars and I think they drive fine and how well it does on the street is just a matter of good tuning and opinion.

 

Converters, cams, gears, its all opinion. I saw this dude with his car stalling every 20 seconds say his car was a great daily driver :wtf: I had a few people get in my car and say my 3600 was too loose.

 

 

Brandon, the brand of converter makes a huge difference as well. Read through this (especially number 7) it will make things make a lot more sence.

http://www.converter.cc/faq/

Edited by V8 Beast
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call yank ! best converter out there and they will build it just for you and your car .

 

I had mine restalled to 3600 after trying a 3200 first. Sprayed through it plenty of times and its survived 2 destroyed transmissions. Customer service is great as well. If you do run into tranny issues they will cut it, clean, and get it back to you quiclky and for a great price.

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I had mine restalled to 3600 after trying a 3200 first. Sprayed through it plenty of times and its survived 2 destroyed transmissions. Customer service is great as well. If you do run into tranny issues they will cut it, clean, and get it back to you quiclky and for a great price.

yea there dam good converters ive put down 750 rwhp and 703 rwtq threw mine . i think i need mine restalled and might send it back this winter . i changed my setup and went with a 7xx lift soild roller cam and my converter is only a 3300 for the nx because i run a big shot and as u no u cant have a good motor converter and a good nx converter so i picked nx converter but it tightened up when i went with this cam so i think i got 2-400 rpms it can be lossened up some .

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I'll be finding out first hand this spring, I don't think it'll be all bad playing with the lock up function and holding 3rd at lower speeds if I have to but we'll see. I'm running a smaller cam and my car doesn't see it's real torque band until 4000 so I'm not going to cut down on my stall. I've been in a few 3500-3600 stall cars and I think they drive fine and how well it does on the street is just a matter of good tuning and opinion.

 

yea with that 4000, yours will prolly drive about like mine does now. It cruises fine in OD at 40 mph and up, but much less than that and it starts jerking around pretty good.

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yea with that 4000, yours will prolly drive about like mine does now. It cruises fine in OD at 40 mph and up, but much less than that and it starts jerking around pretty good.

 

You might be surprised how much of that can be eliminated with some tuning in the transmission and converter tables. There are more then a few reasons this happens, mine would do the same thing if I try to lock the converter up under 50 with light throttle. Unfortunatly most tuners seem to spend all their time on the engine controls, and most tuning issues with autos is all in the trans settings. I can't tell you how many cars I've been in that slam gears, short shift, or bounce of the rev limiter. Just another reason I keep telling you to start tuning yourself, nobody is going to put the kind of time in that you will to get it right.

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I'd listen to AJ. he's one of them smart kids....

 

vehicle weight, rear gear, cam, etc..etc.. all play a huge part in what the converter stalls/flashes. Knowing what your peak torque and hp numbers are will help the converter guys hit the stall right, the first time. A 4000 stall in your 3200 pound street car with a 3.42 rear gear will not flash the same as a 4000 stall in a 3000 pound car with less motor and more rear gear. As the combination changes, so does the stall. When you call the converter guys, ask about sprag options. High HP cars will kill a standard sprag real quick. We broke the one in the race car in about 4 auto-x laps. Ask lots of questions, and have all of the data I mentioned above. It will help you get the right one....

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