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Make My Car Go Mid 10's


wagner

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What would it take to make my car go mid 10's. I want to run the 10.50 class in the Renegade Racing Association so I will need to be able to run at least a 10.40 range.

 

I want to see what some of you would do for a build like this. How would you spend your money and where? This is based on an lsx f-body with a stock auto trans, stock rear end, and not even full bolt ons that runs 12.70s.

 

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I think the coolest way is all-motor, but I think that would be hard (on the wallet) with a 347. Up to you man, but you could always slap on two big bottles and give it hell.

 

Oh I am right there with you! I would LOVE to run mid 10's all motor but that is not cheap to do right at all.

 

I have a pretty good idea of some combos to run, but was hoping for some intelligent responses.

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Here's my list from when I was thinking about doing something like that... modified for you of course :D

 

Functional Ram Air hood

Intake lid

92 mm tb

Fast 92 intake

Th400

Trans brake

6000 converter

MS4 or G5X4 cam

4.56 gears

Im a fan of ported AFR 225's

Long tubes (pick your brand, everyone has a favorite)

Light weight carpet

Battery relocation

Light weight front seats

Weld wheels

Mt slicks/drag radial

Rear seat removal (still looks clean when they are pulled so its cool)

AC removal

EGR removal

ABS delete

empty out windshield wiper fluid

Finish your suspension

Test out spraying a 50 to 100 shot at different points to dial your time in (if needed)

 

Pull out your wallet and get dirty! If you are worried about money take out the 92 intake, tb, heads, long tubes,.. port what youve got and spray 150.

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Get the drivetrain up to par, a quality transmission, I like a nice built 4l60e there's no reason it can't be somewhat streetable. Next up is a rearend and driveshaft, 12 bolt or 9", I'd suggest the 9" with a spool. Pick up a quality driveshaft, precision shaft is great with the 1350 u-joints. Quality set of shocks and springs, QA1s or Afcos, and a Madman torque arm. Get a nice set of drag wheels and tires with a good 10.5" radial.

 

Now for the fun part, there's 2 ways I'd go to make power both will cost about the same give or take. Start with building a fuel system, make it a return system, do a pair of 255 Walbros, and then decide on either nitrous or turbo. If nitrous buy a high end set of heads and an aggressive camshaft suitable for spray, supporting mods for head and cam swap, and then buy a complete nitrous set-up and since bracket racing is the goal a nitrogen assist system to regulate the nitrous system for super consistancy. If turbo, buy the biggest set of injectors, a nice hot side set up, quality 76mm turbo, and all other turbo parts. Get a ported set of 6.0L heads and a good turbo grind cam, and LS6 intake.

 

This could obviously be done a few different ways, but I'd like to drive it on the street and going to a turbo 350 or 400 you'd loose the lock-up converter and overdrive. A spool isn't bad if you don't try to go parrallel parking.

 

Over all just throw $15k+ at it, and it'll run low 10s all day every day.

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Get the drivetrain up to par, a quality transmission, I like a nice built 4l60e there's no reason it can't be somewhat streetable. Next up is a rearend and driveshaft, 12 bolt or 9", I'd suggest the 9" with a spool. Pick up a quality driveshaft, precision shaft is great with the 1350 u-joints. Quality set of shocks and springs, QA1s or Afcos, and a Madman torque arm. Get a nice set of drag wheels and tires with a good 10.5" radial.

 

Now for the fun part, there's 2 ways I'd go to make power both will cost about the same give or take. Start with building a fuel system, make it a return system, do a pair of 255 Walbros, and then decide on either nitrous or turbo. If nitrous buy a high end set of heads and an aggressive camshaft suitable for spray, supporting mods for head and cam swap, and then buy a complete nitrous set-up and since bracket racing is the goal a nitrogen assist system to regulate the nitrous system for super consistancy. If turbo, buy the biggest set of injectors, a nice hot side set up, quality 76mm turbo, and all other turbo parts. Get a ported set of 6.0L heads and a good turbo grind cam, and LS6 intake.

 

This could obviously be done a few different ways, but I'd like to drive it on the street and going to a turbo 350 or 400 you'd loose the lock-up converter and overdrive. A spool isn't bad if you don't try to go parrallel parking.

 

Over all just throw $15k+ at it, and it'll run low 10s all day every day.

 

Now this was the kind of answer I needed.

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