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Need car selling advice


Sully
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Looking for some good constructive feedback. I've been trying to sell my car for a while, but I'm not getting any hits. I don't know why, so I'm looking for help. I don't know what else to do.

 

What is it about my car and/or my ad that is deterring people from it? I'm really not getting any hits on it. Is it something about the car? Is it priced to high? Is it because a couple things need fixed? All of the above?

What should I do differently?

 

This is how I have it listed:

 

The time has come for me to move on. I have something else in mind, so I need to sell my car first.

 

99 Trans Am

Almost 70,000 miles

Motor is stock

SLP Lid

K&N Filter

Ttops (no shades)

6 speed

Stock rear with stock 3.42 gears

Pro 5.0 short throw shifter

Trans rebuilt 3 years ago by 6 speed inc with a stage 1A rebuild will hold up to 700hp

LS7 clutch kit with 02+ slave and one-man remote bleeder

Stock manifolds to off-road y pipe to Bassani 3" cat back with cut-out

BMR strut tower brace

Double Adjustable panhard bar

Vette wheels with polished lip

I can't remember size of tires right off-hand, but can get it later

Tires have maybe 50% tread left

Interior is ok. No cracks in the dash or the doors. Seats show wear, but no rips. The driver side floormat is pretty worn.

Paint shows swirl marks, some scratches here and there, but nothing really all that major. The sail panel has the notorious paint bubbles.

I have the Haynes manual, front license plate cover, and an extra console that will come with the car.

The only leak is the well known pinion seal leak. It's a very slow leak. I just keep a pan under that area and check the level a couple times a year.

I replaced both window motors 4 years ago.

The horn doesn't work. Not sure why. The horns themselves do work when connected to the battery. The fuse and relay are fine. I think it's in the steering wheel.

Drive side headlight motor needs replaced. The headlight does go up, but the gear is stripped and makes a loud grinding noise for a few seconds (only when the headlight goes up)

Turn signal switch needs fixed. The turn signals work, just can't switch to high beams.

I think that pretty much covers it. Any questions, just ask.

 

Asking $9,500 OBO

 

 

Pics:

 

http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/i...cpZZ1QQtppZZ28

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Over all I don't get the impression that you're motivated to sell. Are you bumping your listings? Maybe a relist with a little higher price, and take the price down after a few days, this usually gets my attention. I've seen your car so i thinks it's worth the asking price, I'm just not sure people are willing to spend that on an f-body anymore. Especially when you can buy higher mileage ones for almost half that when a lot of people just want to mod them. I'm not saying I'm right, just my observation.
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The time has come for me to move on. I have something else in mind, so I need to sell my car first.

 

99 Trans Am

Just under 70,000 miles

SLP Lid

K&N Filter

Ttops (no shades)

6 speed

Stock rear with stock 3.42 gears

Pro 5.0 short throw shifter

Trans rebuilt 3 years ago by 6 speed inc with a stage 1A rebuild will hold up to 700hp

LS7 clutch kit with 02+ slave and one-man remote bleeder

Stock manifolds to off-road y pipe to Bassani 3" cat back with cut-out

BMR strut tower brace

Double Adjustable panhard bar

Vette wheels with polished lip

Tires have maybe 50% tread left

Interior is 7/10

I have the Haynes manual, front license plate cover, and an extra console that will come with the car.

Bad:

Horn doesnt work

Drive side headlight motor needs replaced.

Turn signal switch needs fixed. The turn signals work, just can't switch to high beams.

pinion seal drips. It's a very slow leak.

 

I think that pretty much covers it. Any questions, just ask.

 

Asking $9,500 OBO

 

remove the modification pics in the link. or hyperlink them

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Too much to read.

 

Bullet point what it has and add some separations between paragraphs and I would embed pictures because if I have to click a link to get to the pictures, I've already lost interest.

 

^^THIS^^

 

* Stay away from paragraphs

* You dont need sentences

* Be precise (mileage, tire tread)

* Seperate categories

 

How I'd list this:

 

99 Trans Am

70,xxx miles

6 speed

T-Tops

Motor is stock

3.42 stock rear end

 

Trans rebuilt 3 years ago by 6 speed inc with a stage 1A rebuild will hold up to 700hp

Pro 5.0 short throw shifter

LS7 clutch kit with 02+ slave and one-man remote bleeder

Stock manifolds to off-road y pipe to Bassani 3" cat back with cut-out

 

SLP Lid

K&N Filter

BMR strut tower brace

Double Adjustable panhard bar

Corvette wheels with polished lip

XXXX brand tires 2xx-xx-rxx tires x/32 (50%) tread left

Interior good. No cracks in panel, no rips in seats.

Paint good for 12 years old

 

I will include the Haynes manual, front license plate cover, and an extra console

 

 

Window motors replaced a few years ago.

 

Known Issues:

The horn doesn't work.

High Beams inop.

Driver side headlight motor makes grinding noise but works

Very small pinion leak

 

Asking $9,500 OBO

 

INSERT PICS HERE!

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Too honest. I get you want them to be aware of all the issues at hand. But I would put the major issues in the listing, but things like "Seats show wear, but no rips. The driver side floormat is pretty worn. Paint shows swirl marks, some scratches here and there, but nothing really all that major. The sail panel has the notorious paint bubbles."

 

Let the buyer find these out on their own when they come and look at your vehicle or if they call and ask questions tell them. I wouldnt hide anything. Just give them a chance to love the car and be excited to see it before you give them a reason to pass and click the back button.

 

also maybe see what a very similar car is going for with no issues and price out the repairs and sell it for that much less. Ex: Perfect condition 99 TA sells for $10k, you have $2k in repairs or touch up. Sell yours for $8k with it being noted in the add.

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Thanks for all of the suggestions so far. I have edited my listing as follows:

 

The time has come for me to move on. I have something else in mind, so I need to sell my car first.

 

99 Trans Am, 6 spd, Ttops, 70,000 miles, stock motor, SLP Lid, K&N Filter

 

The Good:

Pro 5.0 short throw shifter

Trans rebuilt 3 years ago by 6 speed inc

LS7 clutch kit with 02+ slave and remote bleeder

Off-road y pipe, Bassani 3" cat back with cut-out

BMR strut tower brace

Double Adjustable panhard bar

Interior is ok. No cracks in the dash or the doors. No rips in the seats.

I replaced both window motors 4 years ago.

 

 

The Bad:

Paint has some scratches here and there, but nothing really all that major. The sail panel has the notorious paint bubbles.

Very slow pinion seal leak.

The horn doesn't work.

Driver side headlight motor makes grinding noise when it goes up, but does work.

High beams don't work. A small lever needs reconnected in the column.

 

 

Asking $9,500 OBO

 

(I embedded 3 pics and kept the link to see more)

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Just give them a chance to love the car and be excited to see it before you give them a reason to pass and click the back button.

 

 

This is the most important thing. Car buying is an emotional experience, especially for a "car guy" looking to invest his hard-earned cash into a performance machine. A complete list of mods isn't going to bring a buyer in on a $9500 car. Maybe on a $95,000 car.

 

Its the same thing with the "known issues". Don't detail them. Don't tell the buyer everything wrong with it in the ad. If you get a call because someone is excited and then they don't want to buy it because of a bad horn, no big deal, they were never a true buyer in the first place. If they're looking for a heavily modified, pristine car at that price, they're crazy to begin with. Don't hold back in discussing issues with a buyer when you've established contact, but you may miss out on the opportunity to establish contact by making it seem like theres a lot to be done before the car is worth getting excited about.

 

It also doesnt hurt to be excited yourself. I don't know why you're selling the car, but when someone calls, be excited that you get the opportunity to pass this awesome, well loved car on to them. Your dedication to your car, not your knowledge of its foibles, will be what builds a potential buyer's confidence in you and your product.

 

I'll break down your known issues for you:

 

Paint has some scratches here and there, but nothing really all that major. The sail panel has the notorious paint bubbles.

Its a 1999 car. Of course it has scratches. And if the paint bubbles are notorious, anyone lookin at your car knows that. Let them ask, and make it look like one less issue.

 

Very slow pinion seal leak.

Leak is a deal killer of a word. Leave it out. Find another way to word it or leave it out and detail the issue when a potential buyer asks "are there any issues?"

 

The horn doesn't work.

Let them figure that out when it comes for a test drive. Negotiating tool ("If I go to $9000 are you happy taking her as she sits?")

 

Driver side headlight motor makes grinding noise when it goes up, but does work.

If it works, this isn't going to kill any deals. See above for how to handle it. Remember, you took stuff like this into consideration when pricing the car to begin with.

 

High beams don't work. A small lever needs reconnected in the column.

Fix it or see above 2 comments.

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This is the most important thing. Car buying is an emotional experience, especially for a "car guy" looking to invest his hard-earned cash into a performance machine. A complete list of mods isn't going to bring a buyer in on a $9500 car. Maybe on a $95,000 car.

 

Its the same thing with the "known issues". Don't detail them. Don't tell the buyer everything wrong with it in the ad. If you get a call because someone is excited and then they don't want to buy it because of a bad horn, no big deal, they were never a true buyer in the first place. If they're looking for a heavily modified, pristine car at that price, they're crazy to begin with. Don't hold back in discussing issues with a buyer when you've established contact, but you may miss out on the opportunity to establish contact by making it seem like theres a lot to be done before the car is worth getting excited about.

 

It also doesnt hurt to be excited yourself. I don't know why you're selling the car, but when someone calls, be excited that you get the opportunity to pass this awesome, well loved car on to them. Your dedication to your car, not your knowledge of its foibles, will be what builds a potential buyer's confidence in you and your product.

 

I'll break down your known issues for you:

 

 

Its a 1999 car. Of course it has scratches. And if the paint bubbles are notorious, anyone lookin at your car knows that. Let them ask, and make it look like one less issue.

 

 

Leak is a deal killer of a word. Leave it out. Find another way to word it or leave it out and detail the issue when a potential buyer asks "are there any issues?"

 

 

Let them figure that out when it comes for a test drive. Negotiating tool ("If I go to $9000 are you happy taking her as she sits?")

 

 

If it works, this isn't going to kill any deals. See above for how to handle it. Remember, you took stuff like this into consideration when pricing the car to begin with.

 

 

Fix it or see above 2 comments.

 

can we sticky this?

 

Thank you i will use this when selling my car.

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can we sticky this?

 

Thank you i will use this when selling my car.

 

It helps that I sell cars for a living.

 

There's a fine line between being a greasy car salesman and trying to understand the psychology of someone buying a car. I probably don't make as much money as I could just by my unwillingness to cross that line. And yet, there are plenty of people who would call me a greasy car salesman just because I defend my stance.

 

edit: I'd be happy to write a car buying/selling guide for The Corral to be stickied, mods feel free to PM/email me.

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It's all about wording. Even in the new add you use, "the bad" as a subject line. Change that to "known issues". You don't want to scare people off. Look at the wording Mike (Rotarded) used, that is a great place to start.

 

I agree, I was going to post the same comment.

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I had a 91 toyota truck I listed like your first example, all issues. No hits.

I listed it as a 4x4 Toyota with 206k miles, 5 speed and it was gone in a week with 20 emails. Some emails still asked how many miles. One person called and asked it if was automatic. People don't read.

 

Less detail seems to sell. Don't list minor issues. I would not even tell anyone about a motor replaced 4 years ago, grinding head light, high beam, who cares. If they don't find that stuff looking at it, then they are not a picky car person. A small pinion leak? Don't even tell someone if it is not major. No horn? Fix or leave it at "bad fuse" and let them deal. Easier to say and fix a bad fuse then steering wheel.

A few pics in the craigslist ad are good, not a link.

It will sell. Advertise it to get people to look, then talk details good and bad when they are at your place. Easier to talk price when they are looking at the car.

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Keep it simple.

 

99 Trans Am, 6 speed

Average condition inside and out

Almost 70,000 miles

Motor is stock

SLP Lid

K&N Filter

Ttops (no shades)

 

Asking $9,500 OBO

 

Honestly, mods and all the BS aren't going to get you any more money and in fact are going to do the opposite and drive down interest. You don't have to mentioned anything. The car is "as is" sold by owner. If they complain about a broken horn, who cares, it's a 12 year old car for $9G's. Roll with it.

 

Don't worry about trying to "talk up the car" to buyers. If a guy wants to buy it and mod the hell out of it, who cares, just keep it simple. Don't believe me, then ask any any sales manager how many sales people with the six-months-smarts talk themselves right out of sales.

 

Keep it Stupid Simple.

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Its the same thing with the "known issues". Don't detail them. Don't tell the buyer everything wrong with it in the ad. If you get a call because someone is excited and then they don't want to buy it because of a bad horn, no big deal, they were never a true buyer in the first place. If they're looking for a heavily modified, pristine car at that price, they're crazy to begin with. Don't hold back in discussing issues with a buyer when you've established contact, but you may miss out on the opportunity to establish contact by making it seem like theres a lot to be done before the car is worth getting excited about.

 

Great advice.

 

You want your ad to be pretty basic. Then when people inquire about the car, answer their questions thoroughly. Eventually you'll get a serious potential buyer to come look at the car. When this happens, be as descriptive as possible. When they ask questions, tell them everything you know. Be honest, and don't try to hide the vehicle's flaws.

 

If you've taken care of the car and you know it inside out, the car should sell itself. The hardest part is just waiting for someone serious to come look at it.

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The headlight motor should be a free fix, I had the same problem with my formula when I bought it, it would run and grind for 5 seconds when lowered. Found this free fix and it never did it again. Pretty sure it is the same for LS1's.

 

http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/headlightfix/#FreeGuide

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The headlight motor should be a free fix, I had the same problem with my formula when I bought it, it would run and grind for 5 seconds when lowered. Found this free fix and it never did it again. Pretty sure it is the same for LS1's.

 

http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/headlightfix/#FreeGuide

 

 

I've already done this once, to both headlights. Now, it needs replaced.

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