KruelHouse Posted April 13, 2009 Report Share Posted April 13, 2009 I had this problem 3mos. after I purchased my bike. As it turned out, my air filter was filthy. Upon deceleration (like approaching a light), it would run crappy and sputter like it was going to shut off... Then it would shut off, and my FI light would come on. It would be worth it check/clean/replace your filters while you're checking everything else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ousley99 Posted April 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2009 Didnt read all the post on your bike but here is what happened to my o6 zx 10The kick stand relay got water in it and corroded the points in the relay . bike would run sweet till i hit a bump or pulled the front end up and i would start to have the same problems you are having . bike would shut down or run like shit . it takes about 5 minutes to check . just pull the relay aprt at the kick stand and check the contacks on the back of the board .. Hope you figure the problem out man , goodluckNow that I think about it a couple times my kickstand was messing up.. I was able to start it in 1st gear with the kickstand down, and when parking it used to shut off the bike when in gear and u put the kickstand down.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ousley99 Posted April 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2009 Thanks everyone for all the time and info u put on here.. itll probably be sat before i have time to start checking all this shit.. ill post up when i fig it out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegoat65 Posted April 14, 2009 Report Share Posted April 14, 2009 lol fooled out plugs after that octan boost?? that shit didnt work in my 77 vett either it screwed it up.Took awhile to burn it out and make that dam 680 crab burn right it seemed. Not to think about my 4in sidepipes full of chit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dorifto240 Posted April 14, 2009 Report Share Posted April 14, 2009 Make sure to check the wiring with a voltmeter. Especially around connection points and anywhere the insulation looks worn.I had something similar happen to a car I owned in high school. It would drive fine for a while start to lose power, and then die. The battery would be completely drained when we threw it on the charger. The alternator tested fine, and the battery did too. No fuses were blown and no shorts anywhere.The main wire running from the alternator had sheared off inside the insulation (Until it happened, I didn't think it was possible) and didn't make a complete connection. And to answer SWing'r's questions: Batteries run through a charge/discharge cycle. At times it puts power into the system to assist with everything, and at others it's receiving power. That's why some older vehicles have a "current" gauge that shows only positive or negative. Charge or discharge. If the vehicle is doing one all the time, something is wrong electrically.Acceleration, starting, fans, turn signals, all require an extra bit of power when they begin. The battery supplies that. If you turn the vehicle off and the battery has discharged but not recharged yet, the next time it might be more difficult to start, if at all.That's why you always want to let the vehicle run a little bit after you jump it. To help recharge the battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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