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2006 C6 Vette hit my talon today...


RC K9

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Why the hell didn't they cite the guy? Is Texas a no fault state?

 

No witnesses and the cops didn't see what happened, and no apparent injuries so the cops said they were basically there to just document that an accident occurred, where the accident occurred, and who the parties involved were. We each got a driver's crash report and were then told it would be up to our insurance companies and us personally to hash it out.

 

Value of DSM went up after this I presume?

 

 

NADA on the 1991 AWD talon is $5400 low retail to $9900 high retail. I got close to the low retail on my last one, no way i'm getting $10K out of it, but the NADA value on the talons skyrockets once they hit 20yrs (calssic status). I tried looking up KBB and it doesn't give me the option to go older than 1993.

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Am I going to have to come out of hiatus do to another set of wheels for you again?

 

YES!

 

if I'm not mistaken, you were passing on the right, correct? ;)

 

Not illegal according to TX Transportation Code.

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Wow that was a busy road. Old guy in a vert vette? So typical, haha.

 

http://www.deviantart.com/download/336757461/you__re_next_by_matryoshka_crazy-d5khvpx.png

 

Sorrya bout the car OP. The damage doesn't look that bad. Clifford automotive here in Columbus repaired my talon when i got hit about 2 years ago.

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Adjuster came out a little while ago. My wife called me to let me know and stated based on what he was seeing, he is guessing it's a total loss, but I should hear back in a few days with final result.
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I would just fix it. It don't look all that bad.

 

1.) If Ins Co. totals it, in the state of TX, I have to go through through inspections and they are very expensive. So That's not happening in it's totaled.

 

2.) On my last Talon that got t-boned and totaled, I paid $2800 for the car, the ins co wanted to give me $2700, I ended up getting $4300 and keeping the car, and 90% of the parts I transferred to this one. So financially I made out. Not saying that's what is going to happen here, but in that scenario, a total loss is better then repairing it and the car still never being quite right.

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On my last Talon that got t-boned and totaled, I paid $2800 for the car, the ins co wanted to give me $2700, I ended up getting $4300 and keeping the car, and 90% of the parts I transferred to this one.

 

imstock2 is taking notes.

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1.) If Ins Co. totals it, in the state of TX, I have to go through through inspections and they are very expensive. So That's not happening in it's totaled.

 

2.) On my last Talon that got t-boned and totaled, I paid $2800 for the car, the ins co wanted to give me $2700, I ended up getting $4300 and keeping the car, and 90% of the parts I transferred to this one. So financially I made out. Not saying that's what is going to happen here, but in that scenario, a total loss is better then repairing it and the car still never being quite right.

 

Well, good luck with it, man. Let us know how it turns out.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Finalized everything today. Their initial offer was $3721 with a buy back of $450.

 

Not good enough. They scored my car on their evaluation as a "3" or overall good condition with a "5-Excellent" score given only in two categories, tires and glass. So contested their scoring and hit every point listed on their eval, requesting them to re-evaluate and re-score. I also submitted receipts for about $3k in parts. They only issues $270 in credit for the receipts, $250 of that being for the engine I built 3yrs ago. They also said they re-evaluated the condition scores and they felt they did it right and could not change them. I requested it get bumped up the ladder to a specialist for review.

 

Before the specialist, we were at $4000 on the dot.

 

The specialist reviewed it, and change my condition score to "4-very good." That took their value/settlement amount up to $4800.

 

I informed them I could agree with the "4" score, and felt it was fair. I also informed them that there was one other point I wanted to contest. Their "comparables."

 

They gave me comparables (web listings) that were at an asking price of $2,000, $3,000, and $3300. The only info they gave me on the comparables was the zip code, the year/make/model, the mileage, and the asking price. That was it. So I had to do my own hunting/research to find the listings for these cars. I then asked the INS Co to send me their criteria for what makes an acceptable comparable. One of the many criteria on there was that the listing must have a complete VIN available. NONE of their comparables had VIN's in their ad's. I found my own 3 comparables, with asking prices of $4500, $4995, and $8000. The last two having every piece of required info in the ads. I forwarded this to the insurance company. I then spoke with the specialist on the phone. I stated my case about how their comparables didn't even meet their own criteria, and that it was wholly and completely inappropriate for them to use those as comparables. If I have to follow their rules for comparables, they need to to as well.

 

The specialist completely agreed, and stated she was going to take it to her supervisor. I asked if it was possible to get the supervisor involved right then as I wanted to get this off my desk today if possible, as I am sure they did too. She said that unfortunately, since it's a 3rd party that does the valuation, her supervisor would have to address it with them so it wasn't going to be possible to settle it today as that would take a few business days. I said OK, that is fine, we will touch base on Monday.

 

I get a call back 20min later witht he specialist telling me she spoke to her supervisor, they decided to go ahead and use the highest price comparable I submitted, but take it down to $7000 as they believe that's what they could negotiate it down to, and then they added tax, title, all that jazz. That's how when all is said and done, they came to a total value of the car as $7786.38, or if I buy the car back for $450, I get a check for $7336.38.

 

I told them I agreed with their assessment.

 

The check has been cut and is waiting for me to pick it up. The only hold up is that it's an OH title, so if I keep it as an OH title, they have to adhere to OH laws which dictates I would need to get the title reissued as a salvage title, which could take forever since I don't live there so there would be a lot of mailing back and forth and down time. The other option is that I have the OH title converted to a TX title, and I will get the TX title in two weeks and the INS Co only needs a copy of the TX title to release the check. So once my new TX title comes in hopefully two weeks down the road, I will head to the local Ins Co office to pick up my check.

 

There are a lot of little details I don't have time to go into in this process, but that's how it went is a nutshell.

 

That, ladies and gentlemen, is how it's done on a Mitsu Sh*tbox.

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