Jump to content

What to do...


dover

Recommended Posts

I agree, It'd be a 60k car, maybe less if a used can be sourced.

 

You are buying sticker + at the point or not buying at all. And you are easily going to break the 60k mark. These things aren't cheap but damn are they fast and sexy!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 85
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I've been following ADM on the GT350, at least once or twice a week a post goes up for MSRP available on one, just have to be willing to act fast, and potentially fly/drive back or have delivered.

 

That would be a hell of a buy right now, as some dealers are buying slightly used ones for over MSRP from owners to sell at even higher prices LOL.

 

with that said, ATS V LOL

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had a line on a '15 Z28 on MSO for less than $54k, significantly less.

 

Nice. Many quote the one that went on Mecam for 50k but that is wholesale - need to add 10% for the fee so more like 55k. Anything less than that is a good deal - though it is anyone's guess how long it will take to appreciate and how high will it go. I think if you are willing to hold it 15-20 years you could get a really good return. Assuming of course you don't terrorize a track with it :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I debated waiting for the new ZL1 to appear. If I were to go with the V would you guys go with the A6 or the M6 and why?

 

If you can swing a new zl1, that would (by an order of magnitude) be the best car for you. Faster than a h/c/I c6z (or very close), epic 10 speed auto, seating for the kiddo in the back, and mod-friendly. You'd likely have the capability of 10's right out of the gate, with a full warranty.

 

If you get the caddy, I'd recommend the auto. It doesn't shift nearly as fast as the current 8 speed auto (the 10 speed is rumored to shift much faster than the 8 speed), but it is still faster than the manual. There are tons of threads out there on the differences between the v and the z. The v, when modded, is right up there with the c6z in terms of speed. In terms of comfort and daily driving, nothing beats the caddy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you can swing a new zl1, that would (by an order of magnitude) be the best car for you. Faster than a h/c/I c6z (or very close), epic 10 speed auto, seating for the kiddo in the back, and mod-friendly. You'd likely have the capability of 10's right out of the gate, with a full warranty.

 

If you get the caddy, I'd recommend the auto. It doesn't shift nearly as fast as the current 8 speed auto (the 10 speed is rumored to shift much faster than the 8 speed), but it is still faster than the manual. There are tons of threads out there on the differences between the v and the z. The v, when modded, is right up there with the c6z in terms of speed. In terms of comfort and daily driving, nothing beats the caddy.

 

 

Thanks Kirk, I think I will wait it out and see what these new ZL1's do, those 10 speed auto's would be pretty sweet for some long drives. I'd say a close second right now is the V based off wanting my little man to experience the car with me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Get a freakin GTR and call it a day. You know you'll end up with one anyway.

You can get one in the low 50's high 40's.

 

i go back and forth on this.

 

honestly, i'd wait to see what the zl1 brings to the table---i'm honestly waiting on this car. or at least waiting for them to throw the 10 speed in the z06. the GTR is a 10 second car if you get a '13+, and mod it. but a high $40k GTR is going to cost money for maintenance. there is something to be said about driving a factory-fresh car, as opposed to a 60-80k mile 5 year old car---which is the GTR.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i go back and forth on this.

 

honestly, i'd wait to see what the zl1 brings to the table---i'm honestly waiting on this car. or at least waiting for them to throw the 10 speed in the z06. the GTR is a 10 second car if you get a '13+, and mod it. but a high $40k GTR is going to cost money for maintenance. there is something to be said about driving a factory-fresh car, as opposed to a 60-80k mile 5 year old car---which is the GTR.

 

Exactly, if I were to even consider a GTR it'd have to be a 12+ and then I am back in the high 60's again. I really think the new ZL1 could be refreshing, 400+ lbs lighter, sportier*, and about 640bhp with a warranty doesn't sound bad. I just hope they release it in white or maybe something like the LMB from the 06Z :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I <3 you haha that would be sweet but I don't think that rings any practicality bells for me :p

 

What isn't practical about it?

 

 

It has a flex fuel tune, so you can run pump gas.

 

Kiddo can ride in the back easily. ( I take all 3 of my boys to school in mine all the time)

 

It runs as smooth as stock when driving it normal.

 

 

In my honest opinion, a 1000hp GT-R is MUCH more "practical" than even a stock-ish Corvette. And I'm not hating on Corvettes. It's just RWD vs AWD, 2 seats vs 4 seats, etc.

 

 

EDIT: Aaron beat me to it. :lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

V

 

A6

 

Make sure you get Recaros and a roof. Very toss-able-feels lighter than the Camaro.

 

I was in the same boat-V wins for a DD. In the hands of a savage the Vette quickly turns from DD, to toy, to fucking racecar.

 

Or in dovers case a lawnmower :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 seats, AWD for winter, and auto. Not sure how it can be MORE practical...

 

It's a 1000hp 7 year old race car with zero warranty that has had 72k of the hardest miles known to man. A stage 1.5 trans isn't enough for 1000hp. And that's likely 1000hp on kill mode. Probably rolls around town at 800-850hp. I killed my stock trans with simple bolt ons and am going with a stage two trans. I don't plan on having 1000hp, but if I did, I would build the motor and add billet gears to the trans.

 

Not that it's not impressive. Sure the car will be fast as balls. It's a nine second car all day long and probably mid 9's at that. But when everything rattles like crazy, and the motor/trans pops, you'll wish you would have bought the $65k, 10 second factory car with the new car scent and 5 year warranty. You'll be stuck with a broken car that needs $10k to fix, and will be down for 4-6 months.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...