BBQdDude Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 Soooo, I wanted to know besides manf. incentives can MSRP be dickered on? I always thought anything was negotiable? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grudes Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 Depends on how long the vehicle has been sitting on the lot. The longer a unit sits the more money the dealership is losing. Also dealerships will give a lot better pricing at the end of the month because they want to have as many units sold as possible for that month. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 I negotiated 4250 off mine, 2000 on the wife's, and helped my parents get $12,400 off their new truck. Invoice is the new MSRP, incentives go from there. There are some low volume and or "hot" cars that don't go below MSRP easily, but it's always an option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trouble Maker Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 So, here is my general understanding from talking to some coworkers who've bought a few brand new cars recently and doing a bit of reading. MSRP is what you are calling Sticker price? That's something over invoice. Even at invoice there can be a 'holdback'. So, even if they sell you the car at invoice, they still make money in the amount of that holdback. And removed, in addition to all of that, there are also manufacturer incentives. I only browsed these two articles, but I think they get to the point and have some good info, even if they are a few years old. http://www.edmunds.com/car-buying/pricing-basics-for-new-car-buying.html http://www.edmunds.com/car-buying/dealer-holdback/ Hopefully some (non-biased) industry insider will chime in and confirm or deny what I'm saying. I think Aaron touched on a really good point too, all of this can matter less than what the cars are actually selling for. It's a supply and demand issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dammit Charlie Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 Everything is negotiable. It's the willingness of the other party to negotiate that's the trick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TTQ B4U Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 Soooo, I wanted to know besides manf. incentives can MSRP be dickered on? I always thought anything was negotiable? Sure. Especially as the car ages. Dealers often get breaks on fininancing of their inventory but it only lasts so long, then they pay finance charges. Find a car that's been on their lot for more than 90 days. Wait until fall when manufactures give them their hold-back money to move out cars to make room for new car purchases. It's often a percentage of MSRP. There's all sorts of room to negotiate. Just the same dealers pay a fraction of a percent for national advertising too thus why you'll often see a slight variation between what Edmunds or varoius sites would show as invoice vs what the dealer would show. It varies by region. All that said, why buy brand new? Go for a very low mile car that's just a few months old. I saved neraly $17k on mine with only 8 months of in-service and just over 8k on the ODO (Audi Program Car). Our van, over $10k of MSRP with 4,000 miles and 4 months of being in service (Hyundai Program Car). Just find a dealer that specializes or focuses on bringing in manufacturer driven cars or simliar. I worked with dealers in Chicago on both of ours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpaceGhost Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 Negotiated $12,000 off MSRP for my mustang. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RCode04 Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 The dealer holdback on the prior year model cars is 5% of the MSRP less destination charge. You can look up the invoice cost on Kelly Blue Book, subtract 5% to get a true price to the dealer and then add in whatever profit margin you think is fair. I typically offer $200-$400 over the invoice less holdbacks or rebates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coltboostin Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 Negotiated $12,000 off MSRP for my mustang. What did you pay out the door? Tax/Tag/title-all in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpaceGhost Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 (edited) MSRP was $46k, sale price was $36k out the door. $22.5k for my car, added $2000 and financed $11500 Payment is $200 a month. Edited July 20, 2016 by Benjamin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coltboostin Posted July 21, 2016 Report Share Posted July 21, 2016 MSRP was $46k, sale price was $36k out the door. $22.5k for my car, added $2000 and financed $11500 Payment is $200 a month. For your vert, Mustang, 5.0? What dealer? I'll send them a check tomorrow for one at that price Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpaceGhost Posted July 21, 2016 Report Share Posted July 21, 2016 For your vert, Mustang, 5.0? What dealer? I'll send them a check tomorrow for one at that price Really good deal, I was patient, and very lucky. It was Dick Masheter. Bought a New never titled 1 year old 2014 California GT Vert June 2015(for the above price) http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160721/c744ecb65bcd5a95a5abe9ccc02e1b14.jpg Had Takata airbags Ford would not let me test drive it or take it home. I was told 2 weeks for airbag Negotiated the above price and went home in a Focus loaner. Month goes by no airbag make first payment on a car I have never driven. Turn in Focus get V6 Mustang vert as a loaner http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160721/4a79dcc6b8ca221291e6d136c6978610.jpg Month 2 goes by, second payment. Week later get a call good news, bad news Bad: No airbag until 2016 Good: Ford bought my 2014 back at full retail $46k I had a credit of $46k, Was shown a bunch of 2015 GT Verts to pick from Picked out the one in my sig They went the next day and drove it back here from Youngstown. Just transferred the vin on my original loan, bank was like sure... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrMeanGreen Posted July 21, 2016 Report Share Posted July 21, 2016 The 2014 looks 10x better. Takata LOL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted July 21, 2016 Report Share Posted July 21, 2016 The 2014 looks 10x better. Takata LOL. Gross. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBQdDude Posted July 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2016 Thanks to all for the time spent on your answers. The dealership sales person, when I threw out hey I am calling you as I know MSRP but want a better price, played dumb. Oh so dumb. I even mentioned invoice and again he played dumb. I will try another sales person at that dealership. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Karacho1647545492 Posted July 21, 2016 Report Share Posted July 21, 2016 The dealer holdback on the prior year model cars is 5% of the MSRP less destination charge. You can look up the invoice cost on Kelly Blue Book, subtract 5% to get a true price to the dealer and then add in whatever profit margin you think is fair. I typically offer $200-$400 over the invoice less holdbacks or rebates. Holdback is different for every single manufacturer. On FCA vehicles it's between 2-5% depending on which vehicle. Some cars have less. MSRP, Invoice, holdback, etc are irrelevant. Market conditions set the price. You want a Plum Crazy Challenger Scat Pack with 6MT and there's only 5 in the country? Doesn't matter if SXTs are selling for $1000 under invoice, if all 5 dealers who have the car you want know what they have is rare, there's no reason to sell for less than the market commands. In other cases, a car selling for less than holdback is reasonable. Sometimes dealers have write-downs on various vehicles for a variety of reasons, from age on the lot to marketing cost writeoffs to whatever. It depends 100% on what kind of car you're looking for. If you want a brand new BMW M2, you're gonna get laughed at a lot demanding invoice less holdback. If you want a Hyundai Accent, you can push into holdback without much resistance. Other topics: Taxes are based on the address at which you title your vehicle. What county do you live in? Max OH documentary fees are $250. Many people will say these fees are bullshit. Regardless of how you feel about them, we MUST charge the same fee to every single customer. You cannot just get us to "waive the doc fee" because we'd be in violation of discrimination laws, which will cost us much more than we'll earn for selling you a car below invoice. State fees are a max of $43.50. That covers lien fee, memo title, temp tags, etc. These are non-taxed and cannot be negotiated. Don't call around. Be at the dealership. There are only 2 tools you have at your disposal that will help you get the best deal; your willingness to buy a car that day, and your willingness to walk away if the deal isn't right. When you go to the dealership, you should know which car it is you're there to see, you should know what a REASONABLE market-supported price is, and you should be willing and able to buy the car right then and there if they accept your offer. Feel free to PM me if you want more car buying advice, I sell cars for a living and I can guarantee I've sold more cars in my 6 year career than this entire thread has bought in their collective lifetimes (excluding, of course, other car salespeople). What kind of car are you seeking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Berto Posted July 23, 2016 Report Share Posted July 23, 2016 I've had good luck reaching out to the internet sales managers at dealers in a ~200 mile range. Less BS , and those guys need to sell too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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