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Question regarding towing


PRD2BDF

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This summer I am planning on a month long road trip with a camper in tow. I haven't purchased a camper. I thought my Durango was equipped with a tow package but alas, it's not. This brings down the tow rating from 6200 lbs to 3500 lbs which is fine because I want a small lightweight camper (3,000 lbs) so I can go off the beaten path if I choose to do so.

 

My question is if I load it with equipment or etc in both the camper and Durango and it happens to be over 3500, am I looking at troubles/problems? (I'm not referring to a thousand pounds over, more like 200-400 over if that's the case)

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The question is what totally kills the tow rating without the tow package? Is the suspension/brakes/trans weaker, ect?...or is it simply lack of a good trans/oil cooler or something (which you could and SHOULD add)? (Trans cooler will blow your mind)

 

3000# is a substantial difference.

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I have a factory transmission cooler but the factory tow package includes a heavy duty radiator and transmission cooler and load leveling shocks. That's it. Everything else is mechanically identical.
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Oh.... Then I would just add some of those Firestone air bags, one of those antisway hitch doohickeys, and STILL a transmission cooler if your OEM one is part of the radiator. I added one to my FJ (which technically has a trans cooler) and am now consistently seeing temps 40, 50, 60 degrees below what they used to be, and I am not even towing! This is epically important if you plan to tow offroad in any way. That will tax the shit out of your trans.
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It really depends on too many factors to say one way or the other. I can see it working out just fine if:

1. The vehicle is not loaded in a way to make the suspension sag excessively or bottom out while towing.

2. Is not driven in a way that over taxes the driveline, like driving in mountains, or in high heat, these things that will make the engine, transmission, or even the rear axle overheat.

3. Your brakes don’t get over taxed, similar to above this can cause brake fluid to boil or pads to fail which can lead to a loss of brakes. I have personally even seen small pop-up style campers come with electric brakes so this issue can be eliminated, it’s an added expense to set up the vehicle to use them but IMHO a good idea if you’re pushing the limits a little.

 

I think it may be very doable, but driving a vehicle at it’s limit takes a certain level of caution and requires you to pay attention to what’s going on. Temp gauges, and giving the vehicle periodic “rests” would be wise.

 

Anyway there’s my 2 cents, have a nice day.

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Lower mileage Durango or higher? Transmission serviced with new fluid or original fluid? Trailer with electric brakes or relying on Durango? Towing mainly around flat areas or Appalachian mountains/ Rocky Mountains? Probably a good idea to address these issues before the vacation becomes a Roadkill episode.
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Also any 3k trailer dry is a 4k trailer loaded.

 

Its all the little stuff that adds up that you dont think of.

Pots and pans, plates cups, linnens and blankets, propane tanks, water, cloths, tools ect.

 

In my opinion i wouldnt tow a camper(maybe a popup ) with a v6 dingo

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Any trailer over 2,000 lbs is required to have brakes in ohio.. so most 3k trailers will have additional braking.

 

Yes, it should if it’s a new trailer that was purchased in Ohio. If it’s an older trailer or possibly Kentucky sold one it may not have needed brakes as the law is different. Brakes on anything above 2000#?is definitely a good idea, but I’ve definitely seen lots of older trailers without them, and lots of newer trailers with them that aren’t functioning. Nothin like trying to stop a vehicle with a trailer on a fresh wet oily road in the summer.

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I have a factory transmission cooler but the factory tow package includes a heavy duty radiator and transmission cooler and load leveling shocks. That's it. Everything else is mechanically identical.

 

So get these three parts and call it a day? That way it is apples Vs. apples.

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Where are you planning on going? That makes a huge difference on if this would be advisable or not. You would really need more truck if the roads will be mountainous
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The camper I'm eyeballing right now is a R-Pod which comes in 2600-2800 lbs dry. Honestly, I was just planning on hitching it up and head west towards California. It would be drive to a location of my choosing, spend a few days there then resume then hightail it back to Ohio in time for school
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Honestly, considering you are planning on towing more than "occasionally" and in various different environments, spend the money and put the bigger radiator and trans cooler in, hook up an aftermarket trans temp gauge, and send it.
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I've done a lot of towing with several rigs small and huge. My opinion, and in consideration you're going cross country:

 

1) Inspect your trans cooler, if it's in good shape and not a single row/very tiny it's fine. If it's in bad shape or tiny, upgrade to a better one.

2) Get a good trailer brake controller

3) Ensure all vehicle fluids are flushed and clean (differentials/transfer case too)

4) Add a set of air bladder helpers to your rear, inflate as needed while towing to level out the trailer and CHECK THEM OFTEN -- you don't need a complicated set up, just the $100 bolt in bladders with a Schrader on the side. Keep a decent air compressor in your truck.

5) Get a weight distributing hitch, it's worth the money especially with a smaller truck!!!

6) Inspect the shit out of the underbody and hitch to make sure it's not rusting away/is in good condition. Replace/recondition as needed.

 

All of this will put you better than the factory towing package, but don't ever exceed 6000. You'll be just fine. Mind your TOTAL weight -- fully loaded, all gear and people, full tank of fuel. Distribute your stuff evenly.

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I have a Tekonsha P3 that has been used on only a few trips. It was never installed in the trucks I had. I have no plan in a foreseeable future to get another truck, so the brake controller is for sale. Let me know when you're ready to get one.
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I have a Tekonsha P3 that has been used on only a few trips. It was never installed in the trucks I had. I have no plan in a foreseeable future to get another truck, so the brake controller is for sale. Let me know when you're ready to get one.

 

price? i've been thinking about one for my f1fitty

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