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Mushy brakes (bike)


Strictly Street

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I changed the pads on my front brake. The old ones were almost gone so its a good thing I changed them. They have always felt a little mushy but I promised myself that when I changed the pads I would bleed them down as well.

When I did I noticed that the brake fluid was yellowish. So I thought I would just gravity bleed all the old fluid out and start with fresh fluid. So I did. I hooked a clear hose up to the bleeder and held it up as high as the triple trees so even if it sucked something back in, it would be bubble free fluid.

I would have thought that there wouldn't be an issue with doing this. Done it to cars many many times, no troubles.

But the bike didn't like this at all. The lever feels even mushier than before the new pads. I've tried pumping them up and cracking the bleeder valve to firm them up, no luck. I've tapped on all the lines to get some pesky bubbles out of them, still no love.

I even bled the master cylinder, then the lines, and still no luck. Then the other way, lines then master. I tried to gravity bled them all over again, running half a can of brake fluid through the system. I don't have any bubbles anywhere I can see, yet, I still have mush!

By mush I mean I can pull the lever all the way back to the bars. I think it is supposed to stop before it gets to the bars. Being too hard to pull all the way in.

Anybody got any tips?

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Use a vacuum bleeder like Nataniel said. If you want you can use mine, also check your m/c to see if it's still functioning properly.

The m/c seems to be working ok, as far as I can tell. I don't think it would go bad because I gave it new fluid.

Perhaps I pissed of the little God that lives in there? :bow:

I'd be happy to take you up on the offer of using your vacuum bleeder. I don't know what else to do with it. I've tried everything I can think of. Ok, maybe that ain't so much, but still, I'm out of ideas.

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It's twenty bucks to buy it or he can use mine for free!

Free wins!:flag:

If I recall, your over by Hooters.

I'll see if I have enough brakes to make it over there.

Assuming that I get any time off this week that is.

Extra overtime available this week only!

(Contract work, un-employed Aug 1, get it while you can)

Edited by Strictly Street
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Srsly?

Yes seriously. I have a buddy who went to HArley school and I had brought up the same question to him. He said to do it this way because you have physics working for you. Oh and he's been working on bikes for like 30 or 40 years. He owns a Harley shop but helps me and Jporter out with the Kawi and Yamaha. Real good guy and knows his SH*t.

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Yes seriously. I have a buddy who went to HArley school and I had brought up the same question to him. He said to do it this way because you have physics working for you. Oh and he's been working on bikes for like 30 or 40 years. He owns a Harley shop but helps me and Jporter out with the Kawi and Yamaha. Real good guy and knows his SH*t.

That would be a way I never thought of.

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Your m/c may have wore out and needs rebuilt, pull the plunger out and see if you have any scoring or metal shavings. I have had them go out before b/c over time a steel spring in an aluminum housing will bore out the master and make it useless. Here's my number 614 657 8305 to set up a time to get the vac bleeder. I can also look at it when I see you.

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I had a fellow OR rider come to the shop and I did everything previously mentioned, and used a pnematic bleed(shop air not hand pump) and sucked that sucker like there was no tomorrow(insert joke here). Anyways it was still mushy, better, but mushy. I brought this to the attention of my buddy and he said the only and best way he's found is the previously mentioned one. GL

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Then it sounds like the reverse bleed is about the only thing you have left.

You can also turn the bars so that they master cylinder is at it's highest point, and put a small block between the grip and the lever so the lever doesn't go all the way to the grip and then wrap a bungie around the grip and lever.

If you leave it like this overnight sometimes the trapped bubble will travel back up to the master cylinder.

I know this sounds strange but it does work I have done it.

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Your m/c may have wore out and needs rebuilt, pull the plunger out and see if you have any scoring or metal shavings. I have had them go out before b/c over time a steel spring in an aluminum housing will bore out the master and make it useless. Here's my number 614 657 8305 to set up a time to get the vac bleeder. I can also look at it when I see you.

Cool!

I do have a weird work schedule for the next week or so.

But I will give you a call when time permits.

Looks like rain till Friday anyway.

Rain sux.

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I had a fellow OR rider come to the shop and I did everything previously mentioned, and used a pnematic bleed(shop air not hand pump) and sucked that sucker like there was no tomorrow(insert joke here). Anyways it was still mushy, better, but mushy. I brought this to the attention of my buddy and he said the only and best way he's found is the previously mentioned one. GL

If it comes to this I'll know who to get hold of.

Thanks!

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Then it sounds like the reverse bleed is about the only thing you have left.

You can also turn the bars so that they master cylinder is at it's highest point, and put a small block between the grip and the lever so the lever doesn't go all the way to the grip and then wrap a bungie around the grip and lever.

If you leave it like this overnight sometimes the trapped bubble will travel back up to the master cylinder.

I know this sounds strange but it does work I have done it.

Your right, it does sound weird.

But it is just sitting anyway...

brb

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I call bullshit! If that were to work then you are proving that your m/c is shot. Reason being that your piston creates an air tight seal in the bore of the m/c thus pushing the fluid down the line and if it allows air or fluid to get past it you have no fluid movement. Equalling no brakes or mushy brakes. So no you can not leave the lever compressed to let air out it's not going to work if your m/c is functioning properly.

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