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What kind of oil do you recommend?


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Alright, I'm going to change my own oil, so I thought I would ask what kind of oil to put back in. I know AMS Oil is good, but what kind is good if you don't want to go that route? And yes, I have changed oil before, just not on a bike....lol.

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What!? You all know where this thread is going to end up, exactly where the other 42,371 of them did.

I'm lazy! Yes, I should have searched! It's been so long since I've really been on I feel like a noob. Maybe I'll throw up a new introduction so ya'll can slam that one too...

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Simple...

1. Decide on synthetic, a blend, or non-synthetic.

2. Use only JASO-MA approved motorcycle oils.

3. 4T means 4stroke, and 2T means 2stroke.

4. Mobil 1 is top of the list (Get the right one, the motorcycle oil).

5. Rotella T is the best bang for the buck (It's now JASO-MA approved).

6. Everything else is almost as good... it's all oil.

7. Change it when it needs changed (dirty or no viscosity).

8. Change it before storing in Winter (actually very important).

IMHO: Castrol non-synthetic mineral oils beat almost all synthetics.

That might say something about Castrol oils.

I use one of their blends. And will start using Rotella T when stored over Winter.

Edited by ReconRat
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All I know is that when asking for oil, you'll get every person stating what they use is the best. Guys running shit like Meijer Brand oil and they never change the oil and it's been in there for 20,000 miles without a glitch.

The bottom line is that until you pull a motor apart and see what is actually happening, you'll never know what is great or what is shit.

My belief is that if the oil has performed under severe stress and does not blue, glaze, etc. any major engine components, it's good for us.

That being said, we have used Maxima Syn., Motorex Syn., ELF Syn., Repsol Syn., and currently, Motul Syn. with HUGE success. Success meaning we have had motors torn down to the cranks and had little to no oil issues. We've had National Endurance Superbike motors with over 60 hours on the bottom ends with no blueing from certain oils.

Use what is approved for your bike. I feel a lot of the oil out there in synthetic land is really good. The biggest deal is the weight for your specific bike. My 1000 takes a different weight oil than a 600 should/could...

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Amsoil. Extended drain interval with their filter. Worth the couple extra bucks. /thread

With Amsoil motorcycle oil you can extend your drain interval to twice what the manufacturer recomends regardless of what filter you use. It is the Automotive oils that require use of Amsoil filters for the 25,000 miles oil change intervals.

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With Amsoil motorcycle oil you can extend your drain interval to twice what the manufacturer recomends regardless of what filter you use. It is the Automotive oils that require use of Amsoil filters for the 25,000 miles oil change intervals.

Really? I was just on the site a few days ago pricing my oil. I swear it said only with the Amsoil filter can you go the extended interval. Maybe I am mistaken, but I'd rather use their filter anyways.

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...That being said, we have used Maxima Syn., Motorex Syn., ELF Syn., Repsol Syn., and currently, Motul Syn. with HUGE success. Success meaning we have had motors torn down to the cranks and had little to no oil issues. We've had National Endurance Superbike motors with over 60 hours on the bottom ends with no blueing from certain oils...

Interesting. Quite agree that unless tearing an engine down, the evidence of damage won't be seen. And not saying it was the oil that did the damage, but I do believe that the best oils will prevent damage.

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My personal experience, On my 06 636 I did an oil change one day using honda h4 oil and a k&n filter. Got it all done fired it up and had no oil pressure! Come to find out the filter was colapsed, I replaced it with the factory filter and problem solved! Since then I use nothing but factory filters.

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