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Safety Wiring 101 for track day riders...


Moto-Brian
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Not into track riding (... yet?) but was a good read none the less!

I've done this to quite a few bolts on my old Jeep.. :D

That's funny! Over the years, I too have used the safety wiring idea on many a vehicle for certain "items" that kept coming loose! It's a universal idea! :D

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so i have a few questions on drilling the bolts:

1. sounds like 1/16th bit in a cobalt material is recommended.

2. when drilling the bolt do you drill all sides of the bolt? I assume "yes" cuz you won't know which you'll need to wire through until you have it on.

3. I noticed in some of the pics you wire through one hole and others (axle) you went in one and out the adjacent side's hole (corner). any reason or methodology and which to use when?

4. I've seen safety wire washers...any comments.

http://www.lockhartphillipsusa.com/store/home.php?cat=526

good? bad? I assume I'd use these under another bolt where I am securing a wire to.

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so i have a few questions on drilling the bolts:

1. sounds like 1/16th bit in a cobalt material is recommended.

2. when drilling the bolt do you drill all sides of the bolt? I assume "yes" cuz you won't know which you'll need to wire through until you have it on.

3. I noticed in some of the pics you wire through one hole and others (axle) you went in one and out the adjacent side's hole (corner). any reason or methodology and which to use when?

4. I've seen safety wire washers...any comments.

http://www.lockhartphillipsusa.com/store/home.php?cat=526

good? bad? I assume I'd use these under another bolt where I am securing a wire to.

1: yes.

2: depends on the bolt really. most bolts are fine with just one hole. i just wired my entire bike today and did them all with only one hole drilled. however i do wish i had multiple holes on the brake caliper bolts in particular.

3: i drill through the holes on all but one: the oil cooler bolt. reason was this is a large bolt and would've taken forever to drill. so again it just depends, i know of no methodology or "proper" way to drill, just whatever suits you.

4: never used those and never really had a need.

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my answer to #2 is that I personally haven't drilled through both sides in all cases, but it can make things easier to pull the proper direction.

it really depends on what bolt it is when considering if you NEED it.

the wiring should always pull "tighter," but it's less important in some places than others.

brake caliper bolts don't really need to be torqued down; they just need to not fall out, so if those turn left a quarter inch, it's not going to cause a problem.

triple-tree bolts are load-bearing, and I want to be damn sure those stay at 17 top, and 20 bottom. My safety depends on it. Same with axles. The torque specs matter, so I insist that those wires pull the proper direction, and will drill a second set of holes if I need to.

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What you can do if only wanting to drill one hole is make sure everything is torqued to spec. Once torqued, take and mark the side of the bolt that would be in the "pull" position. You can use a sharpie or a paint marker, etc.

Then, remove the bolt and drill it. Once you have it drilled, put it back on and when torqued properly, you should see it in the exact same position when marked and be good to go.

One thing to point out - I HIGHLY suggest to NOT drill while on the bike. It is just a recipe for slipping off or drilling through and damaging something else... Take it off, drill on a press or a jig and put back on...

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R6 - third gen

brake pad pins/brake caliper:

5569314544_b2fbe4e934.jpg

-- not as good as brians

front pinch bolts/axle

5568726713_19a0713d59.jpg

remote reservoir:

5568725331_918983f82a.jpg

rear caliper/axle/brake pad pin and cover:

5569312844_e6413d1748.jpg

-- the piece that is visibly RTV'd is just the cover, you'll also need to RTV/wire the actual brake pad pin behind it (not seen)

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R6 - third gen

brake pad pins/brake caliper:

5569314544_b2fbe4e934.jpg

-- not as good as brians

front pinch bolts/axle

5568726713_19a0713d59.jpg

remote reservoir:

5568725331_918983f82a.jpg

rear caliper/axle/brake pad pin and cover:

5569312844_e6413d1748.jpg

-- the piece that is visibly RTV'd is just the cover, you'll also need to RTV/wire the actual brake pad pin behind it (not seen)

Dude, you need to use the diaper pins like I showed if you are going to start racing. You'll understand the moment you need tires changed and have to get stuff ready for grid...

Also, flip the axle around to where the nut is on rider's left. If a bearing would seize, it will lock the wheel and not lock on the axle and loosen at the nut and cause issue...

Note mine in the pics...

Overall, though really good job! I'd run a little thinner gauge stuff. What gauge is that you are using?

Also, eliminate the inner pinch bolt. No need for it...

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Nate-

Another friendly suggestion would be to place your rotation stickers on the middle area of the rim. When the tire guys balance your wheels and have to place a weight strip on that cool sticker, you will instantly need new ones... On the middle right up against the inner lip is a good spot - right next to the hole for the nipple.

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Dude, you need to use the diaper pins like I showed if you are going to start racing. You'll understand the moment you need tires changed and have to get stuff ready for grid...

Also, flip the axle around to where the nut is on rider's left. If a bearing would seize, it will lock the wheel and not lock on the axle and loosen at the nut and cause issue...

Note mine in the pics...

Overall, though really good job! I'd run a little thinner gauge stuff. What gauge is that you are using?

Also, eliminate the inner pinch bolt. No need for it...

i usually do use the safety pins, i did on the old bike but as i was getting ready to put them on i realized where the holes drilled up didn't allow the pin to get in because of the recessed bolt in the caliper. next wheel change though they will get taken care of with more holes.

interesting about the axle, good to know.

i believe it is .028, could be the .03

thanks! good to have some positive criticism of my work. i'll take more pics once i get everything off to start prep for summit.

Edited by natedogg624
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Nate-

Another friendly suggestion would be to place your rotation stickers on the middle area of the rim. When the tire guys balance your wheels and have to place a weight strip on that cool sticker, you will instantly need new ones... On the middle right up against the inner lip is a good spot - right next to the hole for the nipple.

yup already ran into that problem. kruzel sent me a ton so when it does happen then i'll move/replace it.

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Dude, you need to use the diaper pins like I showed if you are going to start racing. You'll understand the moment you need tires changed and have to get stuff ready for grid...

Also, flip the axle around to where the nut is on rider's left. If a bearing would seize, it will lock the wheel and not lock on the axle and loosen at the nut and cause issue...

Note mine in the pics...

Overall, though really good job! I'd run a little thinner gauge stuff. What gauge is that you are using?

Also, eliminate the inner pinch bolt. No need for it...

Brian I don't know if you can flip them on the R6 as the left chain adjuster has a flat edge on it that goes against the other side of the axle and I don't think there is enough space to accomidate the axle nut. I could be wrong but that is just my thought from looking at my bike.

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Brian I don't know if you can flip them on the R6 as the left chain adjuster has a flat edge on it that goes against the other side of the axle and I don't think there is enough space to accomidate the axle nut. I could be wrong but that is just my thought from looking at my bike.

I think you might be right on the R6. I haven't seen one like what we do with the GSXR and RC8 for example... Hmmmm...

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Just installed a new chain plus it's stored outside this year on a grass/mud lot :-(

I cleaned it last week.

Dude, if you are serious about racing, you need to store that thing indoors. Weather will kill items that need maintained. After seeing the pitting and corrosion it is showing, I am willing to bet things like the pivot points, linkage points, etc are corroded also. The factory BARELY puts any lube on things like the swingarm bolt and after it sits like it has, you probably have some corrosion in places like that...

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  • 2 weeks later...

RTV silicone can be had from your local auto supplier - autozone, advanced, o'reillys

doesn't really matter what you get, i've been told red is "most liked" because it's easier for the old men in tech to see it.

this is what i get, order it online or find it at your auto store: http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-F81160-Hi-Temp-Silicone-3-Ounce/dp/B0002UEN1A

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