Moto-Brian Posted April 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2011 Don't silicone the brake pins. Drill through the top and wire them. Otherwise, every time you change pads, you need to clean the crap off and re-apply. It's a mess, looks like poo and is a bitch to clean up.Now, if you NEEEEEED to get out of a pinch, by all means use the stuff. And, use high temp black stuff.I will load a pic of an example from my bike, but I HATE silicone. It's a great quick fix, but it's just that - a quick fix... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redkow97 Posted April 11, 2011 Report Share Posted April 11, 2011 the pins themselves seem to be hardened metal. I drilled the caliper easily enough, but i've broken 2 bits and spent way too much time trying to drill the pin itself and I can't use my nifty "jig" on them, because I need to be sure the hole will match up with the hole in the caliper housing when I reinstall them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madcat6183 Posted May 18, 2011 Report Share Posted May 18, 2011 Anyone find one of these Jigs locally, in Columbus? I found them online from all kinds of Aircraft stores etc. but I was hoping to do this all this weekend. I figure I can handle the bolts for the front axle, and the radiator, and possibly the brake caliper bolts as they are longer and I should be able to hold them. However, the front pinch bolts I dont think I will be able to hold.I do not have a drill press nor a vise, so curious if you all drilled them on the bike or just held them in vise grips or something?If not finding a jig in Cbus would be awesome. Thanks!PS everything other than my front end, and the radiator cap is already done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gixxie750 Posted May 18, 2011 Report Share Posted May 18, 2011 You can deff do them ALL on the bike if need be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moto-Brian Posted May 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2011 You can deff do them ALL on the bike if need be.Not suggested as you really should drill them off the bike. Tighten to spec and then mark the areas for holes, but guys that drill on the bike tend to have marks where the drill rubs the fork tube bottom or they take a bolt out and put the top caliper bolt on the bottom and then they have issue with the holes not where they need to be.Take them off and drill 4 + holes on each bolt unless like the fork pinch bolts that never come off, etc...DO NOT drill banjo - not required and you definitely do not want to knick a pin hole in one... No race organization requires that...I mean, you can take the ghetto way and do it on the bike, but you really should remove and do them right. You get a better angle most the time and better holes and cleaner... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chevysoldier Posted June 3, 2011 Report Share Posted June 3, 2011 So I replaced my front brake pads this evening and was thinking about this thread. It's been a few years since I safety wired anything but wanted to try my hand at drilling the bolts as I have never done that. As per Brian's instructions, I torqued the bolts to spec and parked where I needed to drill. I rigged something up to hold my bolt in the press. Drilled slowly and used oil to lube it. Don't think it's too shabby. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madcat6183 Posted August 11, 2011 Report Share Posted August 11, 2011 (edited) Finishing up the bike this weekend with the front end, rear brake bolts, and exhaust clamp and springs. Figure since I need to change the oil and flush the cooling system, might as well spend the whole day doing it.Bought some good bits at Lowes, trying 2 different kinds, the ones with the shank on them, 5 sided insert with the bit in it, and then normal bits both.No jig, just going to take my time and do it all right and then use diaper clips and keep it classy.EDIT: Tried 3 bits today working on them, 2 from Lowes, and 1 from Home Depot. The Lowes Dewalt Titanium was by far the best. It did not skip, slide, just cut right through everything. I used cutting oil, and a nice drill press and got it done pretty quick. Going to go back at it this winter when I tear the suspension down to send off to Reuben. Got the front calipers and rear caliper done with diaper pins, but the front, I only drilled one through hole and left it at that. I don't plan on changing tires this season so figure it will be fine until winter. Edited August 14, 2011 by madcat6183 Added more info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrbrent Posted September 4, 2011 Report Share Posted September 4, 2011 Where do you get the clips at and the hose to cover the wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madcat6183 Posted September 4, 2011 Report Share Posted September 4, 2011 Hose is from like airplane parts websites etc. I haven;t found it locally. Clips=Home Depot in the hardware section. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrbrent Posted September 5, 2011 Report Share Posted September 5, 2011 Ok thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natedogg624 Posted September 5, 2011 Report Share Posted September 5, 2011 if you're in cbus iron pony has them as "fuel line" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moto-Brian Posted September 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2011 if you're in cbus iron pony has them as "fuel line"DO NOT use fuel line. Use Tygon as it doesn't break down with chemicals nor the brake dust. If you clean your bike like you should, brake clean is used and it will cause fuel line to get brittle and discolor.Fuel line is also not available as small a diameter as Tygon can be bought as... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moto-Brian Posted September 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2011 Oh, McMastercarr is the site I use for Tygon... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrbrent Posted September 7, 2011 Report Share Posted September 7, 2011 Ok I started to look tygon up which size and type. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natedogg624 Posted September 7, 2011 Report Share Posted September 7, 2011 Where do you get the clips at and the hose to cover the wire.DO NOT use fuel line. Use Tygon as it doesn't break down with chemicals nor the brake dust. If you clean your bike like you should, brake clean is used and it will cause fuel line to get brittle and discolor.Fuel line is also not available as small a diameter as Tygon can be bought as...I'm impatient and would rather just go pick it up. I don't even know if it is fuel line, it's thin, cheap and it works for its intended purpose. The brake dust has never effected the hose covering clips. At most it gets a little dusty in which a spray and wipe of soap and water fixes easily. I take my calipers off to clean which means the clips (and wire covering hose) come off too. If they do get too dirty where it won't clean I just throw them away and cut a new line cover, no big deal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrbrent Posted September 7, 2011 Report Share Posted September 7, 2011 Thanks I've been looking everywhere for this stuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moto-Brian Posted September 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2011 I'm impatient and would rather just go pick it up. I don't even know if it is fuel line, it's thin, cheap and it works for its intended purpose. The brake dust has never effected the hose covering clips. At most it gets a little dusty in which a spray and wipe of soap and water fixes easily. I take my calipers off to clean which means the clips (and wire covering hose) come off too. If they do get too dirty where it won't clean I just throw them away and cut a new line cover, no big deal.I'm talking about the fuel line vs. Tygon. The clips are all stainless and so is the safety wire. No brainer there. If anyone is thinking fuel line, it is fine and good on them, but if you want it to look good and not shitty by end of the season, use Tygon. Fuel line will look like shit after a season of brake dust, cleaning with brake cleaner, debris and related.You can also use heat shrink stuff. Comes in black and from AutoZone or related and looks good. We use the Tygon for the simple reason it rubs the calipers and other areas where it is used. This rubbing can make marks on the calipers and areas after a season of use. Fuel line WILL WORK, but shrink wrap will tend to rub through...It all boils down to what you want the bike to look like after racing, track days, etc...Take a look at pics above and see what I mean... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazbiker4 Posted February 13, 2012 Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 KTM-Brian, Where did you get the safety clips at? And is there a particular size? I need to do my axles, brakes and coolent cap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moto-Brian Posted February 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 KTM-Brian, Where did you get the safety clips at? And is there a particular size? I need to do my axles, brakes and coolent cap.Hit up Lowes, Home Depot, Menard's, or TSC. I have been buying as of late at Menard's because Lowe's has changed their clips for some reason...You will want the bigger sized ones for the rear axle. Use the smallest ones for oil cap, rad cap, calipers and front axles and pinch bolts... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazbiker4 Posted February 15, 2012 Report Share Posted February 15, 2012 Hit up Lowes, Home Depot, Menard's, or TSC. I have been buying as of late at Menard's because Lowe's has changed their clips for some reason...You will want the bigger sized ones for the rear axle. Use the smallest ones for oil cap, rad cap, calipers and front axles and pinch bolts...Cool, Ill check em out! I did a google search and found a kit at harbor freight... not sure of the quality but it seems you get a decent about of sizes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madcat6183 Posted February 15, 2012 Report Share Posted February 15, 2012 Also for note, buy QUALITY pliers. I had HF ones both broke, bought good ones from the aircraft store or whatever mentioned earlier in thread. HUGE quality difference. Wish I would have got the smaller ones however, but oh well.Also IP has them. I did get the same size wire from the aircraft store for like 1/10th the price of the bikemaster though. Came in the most generic cardboard roll ever, but same stuff and cheaper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazbiker4 Posted March 1, 2012 Report Share Posted March 1, 2012 All, Found this site the other day, they have safety pins and tygon tube!http://kurveygirl.com/shop/index.php?cPath=24 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moto-Brian Posted March 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2012 All, Found this site the other day, they have safety pins and tygon tube!http://kurveygirl.com/shop/index.php?cPath=24They do not sell the small stuff for the wiring like we use. You need to go to McMaster Carr for that stuff. Or, if you know a guy that works on aircraft... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1crusher Posted March 1, 2012 Report Share Posted March 1, 2012 Not to dis Kurveygirl, but you can go to Home Depot and pick the safety pins in various sizes and spend less than the $10 even for the kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madcat6183 Posted March 1, 2012 Report Share Posted March 1, 2012 (edited) I never claimed to be smart, just like to lick windows. Craig clarifed what I posted below. Sorry Edited March 1, 2012 by madcat6183 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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