ReconRat

Agreed, that will take some work. Pressure test also, since it's a fuel tank. edit: btw, fiberglass tanks and ethanol in the fuel don't play well together. It might be just the polyester fiberglass type and not the epoxy fiberglass type, but I'm not sure...

ummm, all threads leak, unless there is a gasket, o-ring, or sealant. Check and see, I'm betting it uses either a gasket or an o-ring. That should fix it, you think? Maybe...

btw, that's East London, South Africa. Not merry old England type London.

Just divide by 10: We use % g/ml (or g/dl) in the US. 1.6 grams/liter / 1000 = 0.0016 gram/milliliter 0.0016 gram/milliliter * 100 = 0.16 % BAC Which is roughly double the US limit. Otherwise 1.6 in the US limit would be coma/death x 3 to 5 times. edit: did they really arrest the sheep? English is a messed up language...

Maybe he did it wrong, and they went pffft and shut off at 157mph...

I found another website, for the state of Arizona. But it will include other states. http://theftaz.azag.gov/ It's not showing up there yet either. The data on the public websites is going to lag behind. Police record checks in real time will show it. That would include pawn shops, since they have to clear stuff first to protect themselves from losing money. edit moar:Check to see if stuff is stolen from Canada: http://www.cpic-cipc.ca/English/index.cfm Interesting article on motorcycle theft: http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcycle-theft/

you made me laugh. I have no fear of answering the door at any hour. I did once open the door at around 2am and yell "WHAT!", and a neighbor kid hoping to get help with his car jumped back and said "don't shoot me!". I thought that was funny. Another time a drunk insisted he was at the right house. I kept gently pushing him back, and then took him back to his car, and drove it around the block to the other side. I figured he was one street off. I got lucky and caught a gal outside who had just come home and asked her. She knew him and I was done. I'm a nice guy.

And no operator's license. It had already been revoked. And no insurance. One of the news comments from somebody who might have a clue about crash scene reconstruction, said he probably got it slowed down in the 348 feet off the road to about 87mph. So he hit the first concrete pole around 90mph. When it flipped and hit the second pole, it disintegrated into many little pieces. He apparently missed both poles, and got tossed 104 feet. The hospital has downgraded him to an extreme critical condition. People are saying this was not a major corner in the road, it was a gentle curve and he didn't negotiate it. The centrifugal forces of wheels and engine in motion at those high speeds, are quite different. That makes it harder to turn in. (Especially if not sober. Quick reactions are required.) I'll say he didn't have experience. His facebook page is out there if you search for it.

A 19yo crashed at approximately 157mph and lived. Some say intoxicated, but he ran off the road in a curve, for 348 feet before impacting first a concrete light pole, and then launching into another pole, and then flying 104 feet to a stop. The front wheel and engine parted at the first impact. The patrolman that clocked him, never even got a chance to turn around and it was over and done. Not much left of the bike. They say it was a 2004 Yamaha YFR. KOLD News 13 http://www.kold.com/Global/story.asp?S=13722715

Misinterpretation of the Mesoamerican Long count Calendar is the basis for a New Age belief that a cataclysm will take place on December 23, 2012. December 23, 2012 is simply the first day of the 14th b'ak'tun. - Wiki From and including: Wednesday, December 22, 2010 To, but not including : Sunday, December 23, 2012 It is 732 days from the start date to the end date, but not including the end date. Or 2 years, 1 day excluding the end date date to date calculator

Reloading errors: 1. Not inspecting shell casings for cracks and damage and FOD. Usually gets stuck in your die on your press (or your weapon). Hard to get out. (Also not cleaning them.) 2. Not inspecting your shell casings after loading propellant in each. before pressing the bullet. There might be some with double charge or no charge in them. 3. Not checking the diameter of your bullet (in general), before loading them, relative to the bore diameter of the weapon(s) that will fire them. Yes, some are too big or too small. Learn what size is correct for the type of bullet/barrel. 4. Primers that are seated too deep. It raises the chamber pressures a tiny bit, but you'll be lucky if it fires at all. If it does, the primer might move or break, since it was too deep. 5. Primers that are seated too shallow, and stick out. This will jam a revolver sometimes. The firing pin might pierce a hole in it, and chunks, powder, and gases will blow out inside your weapon. It might even fire out of battery in an auto loader. This is very bad. Do not try to reseat a primer after the bullet is loaded. 6. Primers that are really flat and flush with the shell casing after firing. This in an over charged propellant. Don't do that. 7. Primers that are sort of almost flat and flush with the shell casing after firing. This is an almost over charged propellant. Don't do that either. 8. Cartridges that go "pffft" when you try to fire them, and the barrel drops instead of jumping up. This would be a cartridge that had no propellant loaded, and the bullet is stuck in your barrel. Remove it before firing another one. 9. Not checking the shell casing lengths to see if they've stretched too far. There are limits published for that. They can get long enough that they won't fit correctly. Again, firing out of battery is bad. Or getting stuck when it's forced to fit. I just sell them back when they get too long. 10. Bullets that are seated too deep. This raises the chamber pressures to unsafe levels. Yes, that would be dangerous to fire. 11. Bullets that are seated too shallow. They can hit the limits of the weapon's chamber, basically they won't fit. (Long shell casing also.) Yup, this can raise the chamber pressures also. Also might fire out of battery. Danger times two. 12. Not weighing your cartridges after finished loading. Not absolutely necessary, but you will occasionally find one too light or too heavy. Double charged propellant, no propellant, bad bullet, etc. All are bad to fire. Dismantle with bullet puller and start over. (Do not push out live primers, safely fire them instead.) Have I ever done any of these? Yeah, most of them. Or I've seen some one else do it. Did I catch it before it was too late? Yeah, most of them. There are reasons to push the limits, when hand loading. But I wouldn't do that without a good understanding of the consequences. Loading charts are approximate for weapons in general. Various weapons will require variation to be successful. Imitating factory cartridges is a good place to start. They generally work for everything.

1. The cost of metals has at least doubled. So everything made of metal is twice as expensive for materials now. Ammo and reloading both. 2. You can't sell ammo you make, per ATF regulations. Only a manufacturer, with a manufacturer's license. Fair warning. Nor would you want to. The liabilities and insurance are too high. 3. If you don't count the initial investment in reloading equipment, reloading is cheaper. Also, don't count your time spent reloading. You're not getting paid to reload. 4. Do research before purchasing equipment. You won't want to buy stuff twice. I prefer gear that works best for handgun ammo, but still works for the occasional rifle load or two. Handgun loads will be hundreds at a time. Rifle loads may be only 20 at a time. Beyond that, consider a progressive die loading rig, instead of a single stage, for a higher rate of production. Again, it costs more. But it's ok to have both types of loading rigs. The single stage is more accurate. Some will argue that, but I insist. 5. Don't bother reloading or making mil spec ammo. Just buy it bulk. Multiple reasons. 6. Tapered crimp on shell casings, like that on a 9mm, is harder to do and will take some practice. Actually, both roll crimp and taper crimp are vitally important to accurate loading, and must be consistent. Other than a correct propellant charge, it's the most important part. 7. Learn not to overload your rounds. Learn all the ways you might over load your rounds. Learn the warning signs of an over loaded round. Test a small batch of your hand loads first, to see if they are over loaded. 8. Keep notes on processes and practices. So you can repeat the good ones, and avoid the bad ones. 9. Learn all the errors of reloading and don't do them. 10.Accuracy can be extremely good with hand loads. If you can't do that, you're wasting your time. I can't speak for equipment that is available in the market place currently. I'd have to do some research. But I know what I like. A high quality single stage press, a variety of taper and roll crimp dies, some are carbide, and some are not. the most accurate powder drop I can find, even if I have to get two, one for small handgun cartridges, and one for rifle cartridges. A good analog or digital scale, for checking cartridges after production. Don't fire anything that is too light or too heavy. Dismantle those with a bullet puller and do over. Several good loading manuals. Especially the lyman manual with chamber pressures indicated for the loading charts. And a decent caliper to measure shell lengths and dimensions. One last note: Handling lead is toxic. It's absorbed through your skin, and doesn't want to leave the body. Wear gloves.

Yes, all the tire rules for FWD have changed. The best or new tires go on the rear. Big investigation by feds and tire companies. Too many FWD cars have spun out for having the opposite. I watched one spin in partial snow and ice on a freeway, when it's back end came loose. About a turn and a half and shot off the freeway backwards and spun several more times the other way, and was stuck in the snow off the road. I like RWD and 4WD and AWD, but won't own a FWD. Too many people have wrecked one, from poor handling.

Btw, since somebody mentioned flu shot conspiracies... I've noticed a disturbing trend, where people are blaming the flu on the people that won't get flu shots. Ergo, the people that don't get flu shots are responsible for the spread of flu. Disregard that a virus is contagious before symptoms are visible, and really doesn't care if you got a flu shot or not. A flu shot only prevents that one person from getting the virus so bad they die from it. They still get the virus, same as everybody else's chances.

https://www.nicb.org/theft_and_fraud_awareness/vincheck/vincheck https://www.dps.state.oh.us/atps/

A real apocalypse scenario is something as simple as a disruption of the food supply chain. This is something of a real worry to the federal government. There's many ways to disrupt the delivery of food to the stores, and very few people are prepared for such an event. A simple 30 to 60 day supply of food and water stashed away, will work just fine. Beyond that, learn to hunt and gather. Or starve. Your choice.

dammit, I got that R.E.M. tune stuck in my head now. "it's the end of the world as we know it" could be worse... and one vote for zombie apocalypse... much more likely than Mayan apocalypse...

The WoW study was done by the pentagon, to hazard a guess whether something similar could teach troops how to deal with post combat urban socialization with the local population. There is substance in the concept, since other computerized simulations related to combat and war gaming have been extremely successful. Now you know... And I have trouble with the concept of any government that isn't fraudulent or wasteful. I think it's part of the standard operating procedure. Deceit, in general, hides reality till it's past history and no one cares anymore. If anyone cared in the first place. edit: Politicians, in general, need to learn to "just say no".

Never one to be stopped by technology, I tap them out with a brass or mild steel drift. This takes a long time, but is very cost effective. (cheap) Use a puller, it's much faster. AutoZone or similar probably has one they will rent or loan out. Some things never budge. Take those to a shop, and be prepared for the news that they can't budge them either. Then go to the junk yard and start over. edit: btw, a full set of bearings and seals for a cheby is probably only 25% the cost. About 60-70 bucks.

Shooter http://sean.kndy.net/shooter/ $9.99 There is a free Ballistics Calculator in the marketplace. I'm installing to check it out. edit: looks like a basic one shot calculator. It does not appear to save calculations. The same thing can be done with Excel spreadsheet calculations, including a graph. But it takes some skill to set up all the math calculations. Those can be found to download also.

http://jalopnik.com/5562520/hennessey-venom-gt-the-1200-hp-veyron+killer "1,200 HP and 1,135 lb-ft of torque all in a 2,548-lb carbon fiber body" eek

short answer: yes will anyone notice: no Juxtaposition will result in unusually high tides in places is all. Sort of happens twice a month. btw, the bright planet to the West is Jupiter. Right above it is Uranus in transit past Jupiter. Probably need a telescope to see both, but how many people can say they've seen Uranus?

I guess the 1000cc is soon to be reality. And talk of kits to build your own. I still say we need to gently dyno this bike. http://thekneeslider.com/archives/2010/01/10/royal-enfield-musket-1000cc-the-musket-v-twin-gets-bigger-guns-and-plans-for-production/

You know, there are smaller jet turbines...

MrEclipse.com - How to Photograph a Lunar Eclipse Kodak Astrophotography Basics - Lunar Eclipse How to photograph a lunar eclipse -Telephoto