ReconRat

Bye bye internal combustion. It might take 20 to 40 years, but this might bring in a new generation of electric vehicles... MIT researchers discover new energy source Nano-scale "fuses" generate 100 times more energy than conventional batteries

10 robots you secretly have the hots for (5 female & 5 male)

Plastic? yup, better look there first.

Somebody is selling that this year, I can't remember who or what.

New speedo cable also? What you describe sounds like the cable spinning without turning the speedo assy. One or the other or both is worn or perhaps the inner cable isn't long enough. Usually happens where the cable attaches to the speedo. Can you pull the cable out of the cable sheath and inspect it? Even a tiny bit of frayed cable will cause low or wobbly speed readings. edit: which means that both ends of the cable have to be screwed on all the way. Sounds basic, but down at the wheel, dirt and grit can stop it from screwing on all the way. Some bikes are touchy about the cable having to be on all the way. Dunno what else to think of.

gosh, that sounded kinda mean... we hope yur single carb swallows a duck, and you get feathers in your cylinders...

My memory says (bad as it is)... the little holes all around the emulsion tubes get clogged up easily. Mostly corrosion over time. Very hard to get cleaned out. I've had to soak them to get them working again. Even water will stop there and clog them up. Which makes the corrosion worse, of course.

Without a doubt, CA parts are leaner, on emissions in general. I think it's common for CA parts to end up on 49-states vehicles. I also hate that, because I don't want CA parts... I would guess that the needles are not adjustable, and the CA is a bit longer. Needle movement at the jet is the mid-range fuel, so you're running bad in mid-range? Idle and top end is ok? Sort of? If it's crap in general, check rate of flow of fuel and float levels. Keep an eye on eBay for a set of used carbs. They are nice to have around for spares and parts. I set eBay searches for stuff I want, and it sends me emails when it finds them. edit: I thought we were going to do some sewing...

That's what I thought. But I went back to the website that I'd looked at Pelican, and they didn't look the same. Bigger, mostly, guess I got some searching to do. edit: It's a Pelican 1430 or 1440 top loader on the Pelican website... edit 2: so it's a Pelican on an swmotech quick release mount, but now wondering where the adapter came from...

Have Justin show you how to look up and use the IP address instead. It's a pain, but it might work. Unless the entire IP address range is blocked, of course.... example: http://ohioriders.net/ = http://66.102.237.10/ <-- click me

Welcome! errr... who makes those hard bags on your bike? I was thinking of some for fun. edit: And yes, I rode to work this morning in the rain.

Gun nerds? Yes... yes there are... I buy both. I try to avoid Russian made ammo. I absolutely avoid ammo made in Pakistan. Right now 200 round packs of Remington .223 are low priced. And there is some Lake City 5.56 in boxes of 20 that are low cost. I think I saw some Federal that wasn't too expensive either. But I'm too lazy to go back and look the Federal up. I try to find NATO battle packs of 5.56, the ones sealed up in metal or thick plastic. They might cost a little more, but the ammo isn't all banged up and dented. I strongly suspect that a lot of cheap ammo has been bounced around in the back of a truck, out in the field. Not used, it gets packed back up in boxes of twenty and sold. It looks... well... it looks used. I've been thinking... I'm one of the unfortunate to experience the early early M-16, the original as first used. I never had a problem if it was nice and clean, but I sure experienced a lot of bum magazines that would cause jamming and mis-feeds. And that Vietnam introduction of the M-16 malfunctions, was traced to a last hour change in propellant by the ammunition manufacturer (per the spec, but wrong), that caused more than normal fouling. Fixed by introduction of an improved propellant.

Had to throw it out there, I like me conspiracies... Yeah, I get it now, and yes, I didn't read it as Asynchronous. Oops... I remember tons of problems getting it to run right with frame based...

I seem to remember that the machines didn't run fast till there was a big charge for using the machines. My thought was that they simply disbursed cash, and covered errors with the big fees charged for using the fast machine. Ergo...

Yesterday was out, it was still frozen and icy in the morning before work. Today I rode to work in the rain. That's ok with me. Roads don't seem to be slippery, which means lots of grit and junk still on the roads.

same day, different place http://www.10tv.com/live/content/local/stories/2010/03/09/story-whitehall-police-shooting-norton-field-park.html?sid=102 Suicidal guy went and sat in a little park with his shotgun. There are a lot of despondent people lately. The stories keep showing up.

wait wait.... what?

eek! nope. 7.62x54R is "Ruskie long", like for Mosin Nagant rifles .308 is 7.62x51 NATO

Yeah, those two websites are so good, we really should have permanent links to them. Wait... we don't have a page list of links yet, do we? Just the forum thread for links.

12.7v is borderline bad. Your battery should have 13.5v to 14.5v. If it doesn't, charge it. (And correct that water level, distilled water please.) If it doesn't charge up to 13.5v-14.5v, replace it. You have to get that battery back up to the proper voltage first. If you want to make sure, jump the bike from another battery that is good, and see what happens.

I couldn't take it any longer. March looks to be warmer than normal. Both bikes have batteries in, tire pressure, etc etc. I'm riding one of them to work this week. I don't even care if it rains.

Correct. Most semi-auto and full auto will have that long throat and loose chamber to slop brass and lead at a high rate. Bolt action, lever action, and single shot will usually not have that, for improved accuracy. And even though mil-spec ammo is made with reduced chamber pressures to facilitate feed and function, that same round in a tight bolt action rifle can and will increase chamber pressures. This is also true for any cartridge that the bullet has been knocked loose, either out farther, or into the brass shell casing. Out can make pressures higher when engaging the throat, and in makes pressures higher because there is less volume in the shell casing. Don't fire them. I didn't want to bring up the chamber pressure thing, I really didn't think anyone would understand it. I am corrected. edit: and oh yeah, I wrote that. It's not a cut and paste.

The problem is when you go to re-torque it. Then you'll need the socket and the torque wrench that fits it. But back-in-the-day we always used a punch or drift or chisel to get it off NOW, and often bought a new nut if it was chopped up. And faked the torque when we put it back on. Several times till we got it right. Heh...

The one I use has four battery powered remote transmitters and one indoor wireless receiver. Different alarms for each remote. I can drop one in a car in the driveway, and monitor it overnight. Things like that. Kinda good to keep things moving around and changing. As long as it doesn't fall over or something, it won't go off. Some are mounted up on exterior walls, pointing at the yard. But those generate a lot of false alarms from little animals moving around at night. The kit came with two wireless remote transmitters and one receiver. I added two more remotes to maximize the receiver. It can handle four wireless inputs.

One of mine is completely shot out and needs work. Buffer and spring minimum. It shoots all over the place at 25 yards. Didn't used to do that. It's the one modified to feed semi-wadcutters. Just another thing on the list of things to do. Old Model 70.