Mojoe

^^. That's pretty funny. Berto, I was hoping you came in here to post about your company's motors. I have been fording many a times in our trucks that have the Cummings motors. No issues at all.

Deep water fording on rigs is 36". However, many can go in deeper. Your entry speed needs to be about 5mph, so as not to snap cooling fan blades. As that driver showed, keeping momentum is very important. I didn't like the current as he crossed the bridge. But, I'm assuming he was loaded, to help keep him in contact with the road. Anytime you ford water that deep, you need to service all your grease fittings ASAP. It's been 3 years since I taught this stuff, so there may be some new or better guidance out there.

I went out with some friends one time, and there was this girl that showed up with her gay male friend. He almost immediately took over the conversation and made all the talk about how gay he was. He then proceeded to tell all the males in the group what he found attractive about them, and how he would like to get with them. I spent a lot of time in the gym at that time, and his comments started to piss me off. I told him I don't care what you do or what you are into, BUT I DON"T WANT YOUR COCK IN MY ASS! That's what it's like talking to geeto67. Stop trying to shove your cock up our ass.

Looks Great. They are coming with Rally Armor as an option now?

Thanks for posting in such detail. Would love to do this to the shop, but 28'x40' = way too much $$$$.

I fucking hate someone trying to sell to me. I know a guy who sells every time you talk to him. I call him out on it too. Really fucking cheesy shit is said to make him point. Even the over thought hand gestures with him annoy the shit out of me. Here's what I want. Can you do that, and how much? Is that so difficult?

I could care less about the card. But, it just tacks one more thing on to the cheesy sales with gimmicks.

I called 4 contractors from Angies list. Two did not call back, and the others were not looking to do the job for weeks. I said fine, we don't need it done right away. This was in June and July, they still have not come by for the estimate or called. We have since not renewed our Angies list membership. We found our Vet and our HVAC company on there though. Although I have also called 4 companies on there about redoing our driveway. None have called back. I don't chase down spending my money. I would like the company to respect my time, as I do their skill, and simply call back and follow through.

I'm on my 6th referral general contractor this summer. No one calls or text back, and they never show up when they say they will. Business must be great out there. We have a guy now, and have ordered our new doors and window for him to install. Then the deck and dock by the pond are getting rebuilt. He's replacing some bad sections of ceder siding around the house, and then we should be set to repaint the house. We are doing a new shed build, new driveway (still waiting for Sam to do a estimate from last year), would like to do the roof on the detached garage, and several projects inside the house. I just can't get over how people do business.

Some of you may know we have been having a hard time get getting a reliable contractor for some work here at the house. One of the project we are looking into is our roof being replaced. I don't know how it is now leaking, but it looks pretty bad. Lately there have been adds on the radio for Erie roof. A couple weeks ago I called and set up a time for them to come out and do an estimate. There was a guy who took the call, then there was a guy who called me later that day to confirm the appointment. On the day of the appointment, I got out of work early and called to tell them I was free 3 hours earlier, so they didn't have to wait till 6pm, if their schedule allowed. Talked to a third person, who said they would tell the second person, who apparently was going to call the 4th person who would be doing the estimate. I get a call at 6pm saying they weren't coming out and were held up at an earlier estimate. They tried to reschedule and I said call me next week. Later that night, two times I was called by them. But, it was like I was pocket dialed. I could hear the call center people talking about how they get paid, or use to get paid for appointments. I hung up both times with no one talking to me. The next week I got a call asking to come back out. I said no and that I just don't like all the sales BS that I was feeling from them. Later I get a call from someone who does quality control asking if I would explain my experience and being very apologetic. They had already pulled all calls to my number and listened to them, confirming what I was saying. They asked if a district manager could come do my estimate and if I would give them another try. I said I could be home Monday evening and to do 6pm again. Tonight, 6:10 and no one here. So, now I call just to say WTH. I was told she would find out where they were and was very sorry. 6:25, they drive up. Blamed that someone wrote the address wrong and they couldn't find the place. Yet, they never called. First thing I notice is the soles are literally about to fall off his shoes. He went right into wanting to sit down inside and talk. I said I need an estimate on the roof, that's outside. "Well how can I don my presentation?" I said we can sit in the sunroom here. He huffed like a 4 year old. From there is was shitty sales chit chat and asking me questions about the roof. I didn't build the fucking house. If we had walked around, like I suggested, then you would know about the roof more. So we go outside and no shit, "that wasn't done right and this wasn't done right". Part of it needs to be built out further to be right and have the roof line matchup. He said I don't know if we can do your roof with it like that. I told him, that's what needs fixed. He walked around the rest of the house and the sent some pics and made some calls. Said that they replace roofs, not build them. "But, let me show you our product". At this point, I just want to see this gee wiz roof system with a 110 year life. Yup, it was neat. And, for our 2200sqft home, a new roof would be about $35,000 to $40,000. We were borderline argumentative with each other at this point anyway, and I said that's not happening, but you have a neat roof design. He said good bye and let me know his time was wasted in how he said it. Is this the 1950's? Do people still think they need to hard sell everything? How are you in sales and you can't build report or relate to the homeowner. How have you been doing this 20 years and you don't have a decent pair of shoes and you're the district manager? Cliffs: Erie sells roofs like used car salesman. They have no idea how to read a clock and be on time. They will want to see the inside of your house too, so they can talk to you about updating and remodeling. They only want to come out if both spouses are there, so they can sell sell sell. You are going to pay a shit ton for their roof. But, it is probably lava proof. Ad on the radio said free $25 gas card with estimate. Nope.

^I knew when this was on Shock Mansion's page, it would be here.

What is the intent of the use of the car? Daily driver, auto cross, drag race, road race, 350hp daily that is reliable?

Though I can appreciate your reference, I would have rather you supplied some chemical from where you work to kill the damn spider. I have been killing dozens of spiders around the house in the last week or so. Mostly wolf spiders and some huge ass orb. Can't have my dog messing with those things.

I have a 28'x40' shop that I heat with this http://www.menards.com/main/heating-cooling/gas-kerosene-heaters/indoor-gas-kerosene-heaters-and-accessories/vented-heaters/75-000-btu-direct-vent-garage-heater/p-2189171-c-6865.htm?tid=3392420826920724660 I manage it with the Honeywell WIFI programmable thermostat. It was all relatively easy to set up and it is pretty quite compared to most I have seen. Small unit heating is going to zap a lot of electric to run it. I have had this set up for 2 winters now and have been very pleased with it.

Numerous people have replied with interest in these tanks. I PM'd a few days ago saying I would take them all. There has been no update or reply to anyone. No action by Friday and this thread is closed.

There are many angles on this topic that I would like to talk about, but don't have the time to post about them. Frankly, when I see geeto67 is in a thread, I lose interest in the thread. Two factors are always when geeto67 is in a thread. Over baring information, whether you agree or not with the info. And, then that info to be followed up by an argumentative stance, that may actually be a conflict to the original information he posted. Resulting in, a structured self trolling to troll others into being upset and posting more. The by product is people have stopped posting or lost interest.

Shooting is a perishable skill. I catch myself going a couple weeks without shooting because, life happens. But, to learn it or maintain a certain level of ability, you have to put in the time and money. Think of it like running, you have to run the miles to get comfortable. It can be very frustrating for some people, but others have no issue at all. Scott, you did very well from the start. So for you it's a matter of the time you have to shoot, the money you want to put into it, and what level of shooter you want to get to. Gun's are an investment that require throw away money to enjoy. You need ammo, and once you use it, it is gone. A realistic schedule depends on you. We can talk that off line, but it sounds like you're on the right track. When Howard and I were setting up the Pistol 1 class one day, I did 3.5 hours of drills and stress shooting, and went through 500 rounds of pistol ammo. Many people aren't going to shoot like that. But, I just want to give you a perspective of where it can end up. I can work something out to focus on what you want and do some one on one training. It doesn't need to be an all day thing. Most people one on one classes are three hour sessions on just what you want to work on. I would definitely look to the Pistol one class to cover down on drills you can do also.

Scott, I love seeing your new interest in this. We talk this all the time, capacity wins 90% of scenarios. Single stacks fit your hands well and conceal well. But, the good ends there for the most part. I favor the Glock 19, Ruger SR9c, and the like. Stick to a 9mm round for so many reasons, it's an entirely different thread. Striker fire, no hammer, is going to streamline your actions when you need it. If you're thinking personal safety/conceal carry, you have to think in a combat pistol mindset. Meaning, your gun of choice needs to be able to be efficient and your actions to deploy it need to be streamlined, to include looking at a gun with no safety. Proper training will bypass the mechanical safety of a gun. But, you must train. Don't mess with the sights. 99.999999999% of the time the sights are fine out of the box for most people. If you get into competitive shooting, your needs may change. Chances are, with your dad's M&P 40, you likely didn't have enough finger on the trigger, and you were pushing the trigger with the pull. Given it's a .40, most newer shooters will anticipate recoil, and squeeze the trigger too fast. The M&P trigger is known for many to have an issue with getting good finger placement on the trigger. Especially on follow up shots, when many shooters have shifted their grip. Slow everything down, and then, go even slower. Second gun is a shotgun. The debate can go on forever for which one there. Again get the most capacity. Remington 870's can be had in the $300's. Mossberg 500's are there too, but I do not like the safety location and the release on those and sold the one I had. Get an AR or an AK. Just do it. Don't spend $1000. Many people here can point you in the right direction, and of course Howard and I are here to help also. Go to the range and train, train, train. Don't go and shoot. Go train, then you can have fun shooting. 1500 rounds for the pistol and the rifle should get you in the know. 500 on the shotty will break it in and have you comfortable. I just spent $2500, between ammo and guns, for you in this post. Have a good day.

Got bored with it. Watched several episodes, when I went to bed. It did its job, I fell asleep.

There are many updates to be added to this thread. The OP is a copy from a relocated thread. The info is a good start for someone looking, but this is years old. Please keep the added info coming.

Good looking out, Rick. This is a nice gun. But, I'm not looking for a revolver.

Since this pops up every few weeks, here's a list of handguns that are recommended or not recommended to buy for novice shooters. I'm not locking this thread because I need people's input. I don't know shit about revolvers so this is a group effort for sure. I'll edit the list as more people post. This will be broken down by classification of gun and purpose, so there will be some overlap. I can also add more categories later on. This was writen by a CR member and is subject to updating. I am skipping certain calibers on purpose. Rounds that are good defensive rounds but are hard to come by (9x18 Makarov, .357 Sig, .45 GAP) or simply overpowered for a novice (10mm, .44 Magnum) means that the person is far less likely to train. Defensive handgunning requires training whenever possible. Everyone has an opinion on what they like. This list is more about what guns are proven to be reliable, high quality and generally well liked, along with being readily available and easy to find parts for/repair, especially for the CCW section. Because of this, regardless of how awesome one particular gun may be, if its hard to find or fix it doesn't belong on this list. Fanboys aside, I think we can all agree on what's crap and should be avoided at all costs. As for the person ultimately looking to buy something - use this list as a reference, but nothing can replace actually holding a gun and firing it. Please rent before you buy. Everyone holds a gun differently, can manipulate the mag release and slide lock differently, and rack the slide differently. Remember - train train train. Put your new gun through the paces, make sure it is reliable before depending on it with your life. Run at least a couple hundred rounds through it without an issue. If it has problems stop and evaluate the situation. Is it stovepiping, as in an empty shell is getting caught in the slide? Try locking your wrists and gripping it tighter. Is it having trouble feeding, or the slide not slamming all the way home? Make sure it's clean and lubricated, and the magazine is seated and locked in properly. Are you shooting consistently, but not where you are aiming? Have an experienced shooter give it a try - more likely than not your grip and how you are pulling the trigger is throwing off your shots. If several other people are also shooting off, or its still off when shooting from a supported rest the sights MAY need adjusted. If you are having real malfunctions, don't be afraid to send it back for warranty work instead of trying to screw with it yourself, or having Bubba down the street start mucking with it. This is one huge upside to buying new instead of used for your first gun, you aren't walking into someone else's problems. It's better to let the factory fix it than screw with it yourself. Caliber choice is a tricky one - the debate will rage on forever whether you want to have more shots (9mm) or make bigger holes (.45). Going with .40 is the compromise between the two, but with today's defensive ammo the difference between them all is pretty minimal. If you still can't decide, you can't go wrong with 9mm. It's cheaper to buy, so it's cheaper to shoot, which means you can shoot more for the same money. It's also generally softer shooting than .40 or .45 in the same platform. To keep with the theme of being suggestions for novices and for simplicity sake, I'm not going to include anything larger than .45 ACP for semi autos and .357 magnum for revolvers. Remember, these are suggestions for a novice shooter buying their first handgun. The goal is to get them into something that they enjoy immediately so they will keep shooting and not be discouraged by issues or discomfort from the start. Here is the criteria to make this list. Not making the list doesn't mean not to ever consider it, just that it's not recommended for a novice shooter. It must be: Reliable Accurate Readily available at most average gun stores Currently in production - can be bought new (no milsurp) Ammo is widely available Parts can be found locally or ordered online without too much trouble Manufacturer must warranty it and fix it if it's not right Solid fit and finish Not too far away from the average price of competitors (not overly expensive) Must be comfortable for most shooters Not meeting one of these requirements isn't an automatic disqualification but means it will have to shine elsewhere, and will get a note about issues at the top. Not meeting two keeps it off the list. Not meeting three can start to push it towards the "do not buy" list, of which I also welcome suggestions. There are also guns that fit in the gray area where they can be useful, but aren't recommended for the novice shooter. Reliability notes: .380 in general - these are generally in the "mouse gun" or "pocket pistol" classification. These all tend to be hard to rack the slide, and I don't believe any of them have been proven to be 100% reliable. Suggested use is only if subcompacts can not be properly concealed. The Glock 42 has had some minor reliability problems, but otherwise is an excellent choice in this category. Glock 19 has had a run recently with some sub-par parts, mainly involving extraction. After approximately 500-1,000 rounds they can begin extracting the brass very erratically, including into the shooter's face. They supposedly have fixed the problems. These can be fixed with aftermarket parts but it seems to be a crapshoot as to what combination of parts will fix each individual one. This problem affects Gen 3 and Gen 4 models. Problem solved. Smith&Wesson M&P 9mm full size has had issues through most of their run of the barrel unlocking from the slide too early, causing "flyers" or occasional shots being way off target. This issue can be found immediately, and there's no way to tell if it's affected or not until firing it. An aftermarket barrel fixes the problem. It is still reliable, so it is otherwise still included on the list. This issue has been claimed to have been solved several times now, not sure if it's still an issue. RECOMMENDED: Concealed Carry: .380 ACP (aka 9mm Kurz, 9x17mm, 9mm short) Glock 42 Sig Sauer P238 Smith&Wesson Bodyguard Walther PK380 9mm Luger (aka 9mm Parabellum, 9x19) CZ 75 Compact CZ P-01 (compact) CZ P-07 Duty (compact) Glock 19 (compact) Glock 26 (subcompact) Glock 43 (single stack subcompact) Sig Sauer P229 (compact) Sig Sauer P239 (subcompact) Sig Sauer P938 (subcompact) Ruger LC9 (subcompact) Ruger SR9c (compact) Smith&Wesson Shield 9mm (subcompact, single stack) Smith&Wesson M&P 9c (compact) Springfield XD Subcompact Springfield XDM 3.8 Compact Springfield XD-S (subcompact, single stack) H&K P30 (compact) H&K USP Compact Walther PPS (subcompact) .40 S&W CZ P-06 (compact) CZ P-07 Duty (compact) Glock 23 (compact) Glock 27 (subcompact) Ruger SR40c (compact) Sig Sauer P229 (compact) Sig Sauer P239 (subcompact) Smith&Wesson Shield .40 (subcompact, single stack) Smith&Wesson M&P .40c (compact) Springfield XD Subcompact Springfield XDM 3.8 Compact Springfield XD-S (subcompact, single stack) H&K P30 (compact) H&K USP Compact Walther PPS (subcompact) .38 Special/.357 Magnum (revolver) Ruger LCR Smith&Wesson J Frame .45 ACP (.45 Auto) Glock 30 (subcompact) Glock 36 (subcompact, single stack) Springfield XD-S (subcompact, single stack) Springfield XDM 3.8 Compact H&K USP Compact Nightstand/Home Defense duty: 9mm Luger (aka 9mm Parabellum, 9x19) CZ 75 (fullsize) CZ 75 Compact CZ P-01 (compact) CZ P-07 Duty (compact) CZ P-09 Duty (fullsize) FN FNS (fullsize) FN FNP (fullsize) FN FNX (fullsize) Glock 19 (compact) Glock 17 (fullsize) Ruger SR9c (compact) Sig Sauer P226 (fullsize) Sig Sauer P229 (compact) Smith&Wesson M&P 9mm Fullsize Smith&Wesson M&P 9c (compact) Springfield XD Service (compact) Springfield XDM 3.8 (compact) Springfield XDM 4.5 (fullsize) H&K P30 (compact) H&K USP (fullsize) H&K USP Compact Walther PPQ (fullsize) Walther PPX (fullsize) .40 S&W CZ 75 (fullsize) CZ P-06 (compact) CZ P-07 Duty (compact) CZ P-09 Duty (fullsize) FN FNS (fullsize) FN FNP (fullsize) FN FNX (fullsize) Glock 23 (compact) Glock 22 (fullsize) Ruger SR40c (compact) Sig Sauer P226 (fullsize) Sig Sauer P229 (compact) Smith&Wesson M&P .40 Fullsize Smith&Wesson M&P .40c (compact) Springfield XD Service (compact) Springfield XDM 3.8 (compact) Springfield XDM 4.5 (fullsize) H&K P30 (compact) H&K USP (fullsize) H&K USP Compact Walther PPQ (fullsize) Walther PPX (fullsize) .38 Special/.357 Magnum (revolver) Smith&Wesson K frame Smith&Wesson L frame .45 ACP (aka .45 Auto) 1911 Variant (see below) Glock 21 (fullsize) FN FNP (fullsize) FN FNX (fullsize) Smith&Wesson M&P .45 Fullsize Smith&Wesson M&P .45 Midsize Smith&Wesson M&P .45c (compact) Springfield XD Service (compact) Springfield XDM 4.5 (fullsize) H&K HK45c (compact) H&K HK45 (fullsize) H&K USP (fullsize) H&K USP Compact

This is for people that are traveling state to state, and wish to take firearms with them. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Firear...Protection_Act For more information, search for Firearm Owners Protection Act (FOPA) The intent of this act is that if the firearm is legal in the place you are leaving from, and is legal at your destination, the federal government supersedes state and local laws regulating firearms possession and allows a person to travel through that area, so long as you aren't stopping longer than for normal food and gas pit stops. It just requires that you have the firearms unloaded in locked containers other than a glovebox or console or otherwise inaccessible to the occupants of the vehicle. There are a handful of states that will hassle you as far as they can about this, so my personal suggestion is that if traveling through these unfriendly states, carry a printout copy of the FOPA in case you have a run in with the law and they are ignorant of federal law. However, reports are the New York, Maryland and DC don't care about FOPA and will probably arrest you if you have something in your possession that they don't like, so avoid those states at all costs. Flying with firearms and having a layover in those states, or DC, is strongly discouraged for the same reason. Flying with firearms It's actually surprisingly easy. Stolen from ar15.com: Quote: I travel with my pistol about once a month or so. I simply drilled a hole through the handle of my original Glock case through which a padlock can go. Pack your bag and put the pistol case on top. When you get to check-in simply tell the clerk you need to declare a firearm. She'll give you an orange tag to fill out and put in the locked pistol case atop your pistol: it simply states the firearm is unloaded. Don't let him/her try to tell you to put the tag elsewhere (as one recently did with me) - they are sometimes misinformed as to federal laws regarding travel with a firearm. Also, as mentioned, do not use a TSA lock. A standard keyed padlock will do, and only you should have a key to it. Neither TSA nor the airline are to open the case once it leaves your sight. After you've placed the tag in your case and locked it and completed your check in, a person - either the clerk or an airport assistant - will escort you and your bag (you are no longer allowed to touch your bag once you've declared and locked it up) to TSA, where they will open the bag and perform a swab check around the edges. You're allowed to keep an eye on them during this, if you wish. Once that is complete and they seal up your bag, you're free to go on. Don't sweat it at all. I've done it five hundred times and never once had trouble, even having a TSA agent once give me some slack after forgetting my hard case (I know) and telling me where I could find one in the airport that she would consider suitable for travel (a "hard" case by only the most liberal definition). Also, don't worry about being super clandestine about opening your case to put in the tag. I've had to open my pelican before with an AR, Win Model 70, Benelli shotgun and a few pistols splayed out before the wary travelers. A few askance looks, but nobody threw a fit or died. Be professional, do your business, and go on. Good luck! It never hurts to find the rules of the airline you are flying on in regards to checking firearms, printing them out and taking them with you in case you end up with someone clueless on the other side of the counter. Another thing to consider - The gun case, once confirmed to have only unloaded guns and tagged as such - gets locked by the owner with a padlock, not a TSA lock. It is not to be opened by anyone except the owner. There are no rules about having other items in the case. It's perfectly fine to use a giant rifle case as luggage with, say, a CCW size handgun in it. In this case you know nobody will be screwing with it. This is copied information from other sources and a CR member and is subject to change.

Do we have room for two Clay's? Welcome. Nice intro. Short and simple. I like the GIF.

One of my guys just printed out his tickets. Enjoy. FREE TICKETS! No. 1 Ohio State (2-0) will host a Mid-American Conference foe for the 19th consecutive year when they welcome Northern Illinois (2-0) to Ohio Stadium this Saturday. Kickoff is scheduled for 3:30 p.m. ET. Gates will open two hours prior to kickoff. Kroger has provided FREE Tickets to Military members and their guests! Orders are limited to 2 tickets per active military member. Duplicate orders will be deleted. Big Thanks to Kroger for the Tickets to the Game! TAILGATE FOR THE TROOPS! In addition to the game tickets we have worked with our friends at Heartland Bank and Schmidt's Sausage to throw a pregame "Tailgate for the Troops"!! Please bring a valid ID to our Will Call table starting at 12:30 on GAME DAY at the Tailgate for the Troops located in the RV Parking lot near the Schottenstein Center (Parking Lot #7 by Bill Davis Stadium) Look for the Heartland Bank RV & the USO Banners. Parking is not provided. Find parking on your own, then make your way to the Tailgate for the Troops location. Like "USO of Central & Southern Ohio" on Facebook to see the Tailgate for the Troops check-in map. If you have any trouble on the day of locating our Tailgate area - please call Sue Ann @ 740-804-0734. Thank you, Heartland Bank and Schmidt's Sausage! TO RESERVE YOUR TICKETS, CLICK THIS LINK: Caution-osuticketsfortroops.eventbrite.com