imprez55

I will be going in out 30-45 min to get the squires tag, but (weather permitting of course) I won't be going down to cbus until tomorrow. If anyone wants to get the tag and move it first that's cool, or if anyone wants to ride and get it then pm me or something (short notice, I know). I could wait a little if someone is waiting to get off work to ride ---edit--- Got it, new tag will be posted tomorrow sometime. I don't know the rules, but again, if anyone gets the other tag and a new one before I post go ahead and keep the game going! ---edit x2---tag!--- Be careful of lots of dead animals on most every road. Also, on 208 there is some construction on a plot of land so some of the road is covered in dirt, and there is this weird blind, change in elevation, unmarked sharp turn to watch out for (after the construction I believe?). This one is for you speedy, hope its close enough to where you wanted, now go out and get it!

Meh, doesn't seem like a big deal to me until they release some numbers. As of now it seems like they are trying to piggyback off of the Japan disaster for a big story. If they arn't, then I want mutated chickens with more wings. Mmm, wings are delicious

Eh, doesn't matter really since its a programmed ratio anyway, just hoping to make it easier on myself. Thanks! Bigger: converted a X3 from HF with cncfusion ballscrews, keling inc steppers and a gecko g540 with homemade power supply. I had mach3 running it previously and it ran quite well but I ran into computer problems (people needed computers, I am who they came to) so now I have EMC2 running it. Everything works fine, I just haven't been able to run my own code because EMC2 and SolidCam don't play nice together. I plan on doing some ar10, ar15 and 2011 frames I have modeled this summer if I get around to it...too many projects and not enough time.

Haha, well demanding works because it will work for your bike! Just because you are in marketing doesn't mean you wouldn't know, I'm in biochemistry and I know. You just need to work marketing magic and pimp this thing out to everyone if/when it gets finished.

If you have to rely on that then you are already screwed.. The website worked on firefox 3.6.16, except noscript didn't like it

Ha, I guess you did, I usually don't read all the posts (too many, not enough time). That could have been a terrible mistake, but anything for a quick turn around I guess. I would agree with you; 04DayTri, bring a mechanic and don't be afraid to walk away, you shouldn't have any problems then. There are other places you can find salvage bikes if he is dead set on newer and cheap, but you have to know what you are looking for so you don't get a tweaked frame or something bad. You can look into older bikes and 250's. Early 90's KBB values are under $2K now

Analog speedometer I assume? Regardless you can just throw a hall effect sensor or reed switch on the frame and a magnet on the rotor to get speed signals and it would accomplish the same (easier for me to do right now actually). I just did not want to route extra wires or glue anything on the frame/rotors.

Is that CL listing still up? If so I would be interested in talking to that person, possibly a good investment to make sure I get everything right the first time out (haha, that isn't going to happen). I am planning on making it integrated into the cluster, because that's how I want it personally. I will certainly make it as an add-on though if this is expanded, once I get my CNC machine figured out that is. There is a problem with the SolidCam postprocessor and its not using commands EMC2 can interpret. Again, not enough time to figure that out so initially it will be integrated. Once I figure out the CNC machine then I can make billet aluminum and hdpe etc. housings for people (that would be the easiest part, 20 min in CAD and CAM and then just setup).

I asked jonni the same question a while back, the following thread on assfault junkies is a result of that: http://www.assfaultjunkies.com/showthread.php?8608-racersedge-likes-dislikes I never ended up dealing with them, but I know when I was trying to buy an '08 cbr 600rr they had parts from 06, 07 and 08 to make it look back to stock and never damaged. That kind of turned me off from doing business, its possible I will look in the future though.

Exactly what I was looking for, thank you! One more question then: do you know what frequency it would be at? I looked into what you said and saw a couple places had speedo's (for cars) that were 1Hz = 1mph but then anything below 10mph would be essentially unreadable (then again, if you are going 10 you better be in first, and how often and you doing only 10mph!). So I guess that doesn't really matter, I just like to have references. I will keep that in mind. I started the project while I was off for Easter break, however, I am back at school now for a couple weeks so no real time to look into it. If I have time between research and a job during summer I will try to get it done quickly and I will do what I can on the weekends. If people are interested (without me even asking) it might make me want to work a little quicker/harder. This will be the first micro circuit I have built without a bom or anything, so if anyone has a store bought they will let me crack open to just look at what parts they included let me know! I don't want to over or under build this if I will be giving it to other people. I plan on doing it integrated as well just not for $210 haha, for me I will be keeping the stock red color (bike is red) like this: I'm not knocking the guy that does them btw; he is the only one I know of and it looks like he does great work, but sourcing an expensive product makes the final one that much more costly and I personally couldn't bring myself to pay that

It could be a lot of things, any info about it while riding? I would suggest getting the service manual and just taking it apart to both clean it and check all the tubes. Since it is a 250 designed for a new rider, it could easily be just dirty from improper winter prep or vacuum tubes could be improperly connected etc. If you can't get it with the idle adjustment screw then again, I would just take it apart and check all the t's are crossed and i's are dotted

Beware of torquing to spec apparently too. Same type of thing happened to me, tightened a lug nut to spec on my saturn ion and it sheared the stud..now I under-torque for SAFETY, just doesn't sound right.

Background: I have been interested in building a gear indicator for a while now because I think $120 for one is a total rip off, especially since it really isn't necessary. I could easily add something like a hall effect sensor or reed switch to the bike to make sure I know the speed, but I want to keep it as stock as possible like the acumen etc indicators do. Since the acumen are universal (except for the plug, the wire in are universal), I am assuming whatever pulses are sent to the speedo and tach are standard somehow. I have a lot of the programming done but I have not been able to test it at all or make sure I am doing everything right. What I'm asking: I don't have my bike (or an oscilloscope, but I'm sure I could make do without) in front of me so I was wondering if anyone knew offhand what kind of pulses I will be looking at and how they relate to speed? It could be as simple as 1 revolution = 1 pulse for the speedo, and the same for the tach but the problem is I just don't actually know.

I heard that the hackers are saying it wasn't them? I haven't actually looked into it at all, I just know that of the 3 times I have tried to play on the psn with a certain group of friends it has been down every single time.

I bought these (ebay link) last year. They bent a little from rough storage but I bent it back by hand and haven't had any problems with it. They arrived new, disassembled in bubble wrap and for quite cheap (<$90 shipped for the front and rear set). They get the job done and are not fancy. Its up to you if you want to get the $400 pit bull stands which I am certain will last much longer, but at 4x the price they better!

I do have a bill of sale from the last person the MCO was signed over to, to the next owner and then to me as well. I am not really worried about the warranty since it is so old already. I will certainly look into it when I get a chance, hopefully tomorrow or Wednesday. Independent Motorsports, you will be getting a call either tomorrow or Wednesday as well, whichever day I actually have time to dedicate to this endeavor.

I did not read the rest of the thread, but you shouldn't try to force getting your knee down. Its a result of good cornering, speed and body position (but can happen through bad position however you will be slower). If you are really itching to get your knee down and don't want a track day, try going to an empty parking lot and just go in circles. Eventually you will speed up and the lean angle will be getting bigger and bigger. I would suggest evaluating your body position, you can search youtube for some good tips somewhere. I don't think this will happen on the street, and you will look ridiculous if you are trying to be all the way off the bike just to get your knee down. Remember; getting your knee down is a result of other things, it will (should) come naturally

It is a 2006 Saturn Ion with the 2.4L and yes its a standard. I babied it on the way back through the mountains, not because I worried about the car but because I worried about the bike.

The bike was ridden with temp plates, the 30 day ones you can get from the dealer. The original owner worked for the dealer and had the MCO/MSO signed over to him, so I think that is where the complications arise, also the fact that its from NC and not in state. I will check about just bringing the documentation to my local BMV, but I remember calling them and saying I would have to go to Columbus or something (it was last year, so I am a little hazy on the details). Regardless its still for sale, maybe I will make it out this week to the BMV and we will see about getting a real title.

This is true, I just saw my first cop on 271 in the southbound direction near 480. I was going 70, so maybe there is a little leeway initially but i will certainly be more careful now.

Due to some family health issues I will probably not be able to go to the track, so instead of letting this sit and depreciate I thought I would offer it up here. If there are not a lot of bites, I will update the thread with CL and WERA listings. Quick stats: Make:Yamaha Model :YZF-R6 Year: 2007 Miles:< 4,000mi Bodywork: Street currently, track bodywork can be acquired (both red primarily) Mods: Micron slip-on, Pazzo (maybe, I forget manufacturer) front levers, smoked front turn signals, smoked integrated rear tail light Price: $5500 (price is negotiable with all offers and almost all trades considered, including older bikes if you want to upgrade) Pictures: There is a photobucket album here along with a start up video. A teaser is posted below. Story: First off, this is an absolutely mint 2007 R6 that has never been crashed, to the track (even though it was wired for it), or even barely ridden. As it sits, its being sold as track duty only as there are issues with the title (it doesn't have one). Long story short, its not stolen, never downed, and there is no lein or anything so it can be ridden today, just not (legally) on the street. If further clarification is necessary, I can provide it. It will come with the MCO and a bill of sale including all documentation and bills of sale previously. She is a dream to ride and I hate to sell it, but it does no good to me sitting around so I hope someone else can enjoy it.

Good luck not breaking anything. My story FWIW: Less than 2Kmi after I traveled 1000mi with a trailer to and a bike from NC, my GM tranny crapped out. It was only at 42k mi at that point and there was rapid degradation in transmission performance within 4 months. It first came on with a slight grind into 4th, eventually it wouldn't engage 4th at all and 5th started to grind. GM says it was the syncros on reverse, 1st, 3rd, 4th and 5th that went bad.

Mods: Micron slip-on, Pazzo (maybe, I forget manufacturer) front levers, smoked front turn signals, smoked integrated rear tail light Pics: here is a photobucket album of them, along with a video. I can take more or attach them here if you want, I just didn't want to clutter the thread too much. Price: I would like to get $5500 for everything Just some quick info; it has never actually made it to the track nor has it ever been down or damaged. As-is, it is strictly track duty.

Congrats! ...but why is this in the for sale section?

I have been thinking about selling my bike. Even though I love it, if its the right sale for both of us I could do it. *07 R6 *not a clean title *street bodywork, I can get track (both red, track is red+white) *Under 4000 miles *$5k-ish price range: yes