vf1000ride

Actually not, Motohio had one also. I ended getting theirs. Was basically the same deal from both shops but Motohio was understanding enough and did me the huge favor of delivering it to my house for free.

Got my new bike home from the dealer yesterday. Still recovering from my crash but I pulled my leg over it and took a short 2 mile ride on it just for fun. Can't wait to finish rehab and for the weather to truly turn nice so I can start burning up the miles on it. 2016 Ducati Pikes Peak. #298/400 made.

Sad to say I haven't read a book of fiction in a very long time. These days everything seems to be magazines, tech or repair manuals. Last actual book/novel I read for pleasure was Jurassic Park. Was a fair bit after the movie came out but still in the late 90's sometime. I just don't seem to find the time these days to sit down and get lost in something like that.

You control ignition timing by controlling the fuel injection timing. I would assume it's going to be a direct injection engine so you would just need to increase or decrease the timing of the fuel injector and you can advance or retard when it lights off.

So being I know a little about this bike. Here is the thread from when I was selling it. I would get with the current owner to verify that it's in the same condition as these pictures but it should give you a rough idea of whats being offered.

If you have an M1 you should just throw an optic on it and keep that old warhorse running. I did a forward rail, EoTech and muzzle brake on one of mine and it's amazing how much better that gun is from 50-200 yards. That gun is the second reason I can't really justify the M1-A.

I have been lusting over the Springfield socom16 since it first came out years ago. Can't convince myself to pick up another caliber platform at this point.

I used Tune ecu when I had my Triumph, you need the OBDII to USB adapter off ebay to make it work with the laptop. It works really well and is what was used to load a custom dyno map on my bike. I would take the free tune ecu over paying for tuneboy any day.

I stopped buying stuff off of eBay years ago. Can't stand searching through pages of items priced higher than MSRP only to get outbid on the item anyway.

I can honestly say I don't bother to clean the polish out of the inside of the brass. I used to run them in the dishwasher loaded into plastic colanders. It turned into too much hassle as it never got all of it and then I had to worry about getting them dry before they started to tarnish again. After you use the tumbler media for 5-600 hundred cases the amount left behind diminishes and it's less of an issue. Once the media stops polishing (2-3000 cases) I add some of the Frankford Arsenal liquid brass polish to the mix to try and get a little more life out of the media. I fortunately (or unfortunately) depending on your view, reload a lot of ammo on an annual basis. Last year was somewhere around 10,000 rounds reloaded. As for crimped primers, I swage with an RCBS 9495 swaging die. They are only $29 on https://www.amazon.com/RCBS-Primer-Pocket-Swager-Combo-2/dp/B0063IDAX2 You put it into the rockchucker and it works just as good that the standalone units without taking up more desktop space for another piece of gear.

First bike was a 1972 CZ 175 trail. Taxi cab yellow with checkerboard stripes, oh dang was it ugly. Crashed it sooo bad I left it in the woods for the rust to take it. First streetbike was a 1975 Honda CB750, first true highside (totaled). The list bike that have come and gone since then; 1982 Yamaha YZ125; 1976 Honda CB550 supersport; 1984 Honda VF1000F interceptor; 1980 KZ1000 police interceptor; 2006 Triumph Sprint ST. The ones I have currently, check my signature below.

Watching for a finalized date. I would love to come hang with everyone and it's just that much more of a reason to keep my physical therapy pumping so I can ride again next year.

Roughly 15 years ago I had a 65 mile each way commute, would carpool with another guy to make things easier. It sucked. These days I have that down to an 8 mile each way drive, so much better. Would I ever go back to that long commute, probably not. You would need to add a very large correction to my paycheck for that kind of drive.

Computer spec junkie thread, one of my other passions. Zalman fatal1ty fc-ze1 case Gigabyte GA-170X ultra gaming Mobo Intel I7-6700K CPU, Corsair water cooler. 32 gig of Gskill Ripjaws ddr4-2133 memory Nvidia gtx1080 primary with a gtx660 for Physx. Ultra X4 1000Watt modular power supply OCZ Vertex 4, 250gig SSD primary drive with two 3tb standard drives for storage. Logitech G19 keyboard amd the G700S mouse.

Dude, it's a Triumph. They still have the same issues as the cars did with the Lucas electrics in them. You need an electric smoke refill kit. I used all of mine while fixing my Sprint the one time or I would let you have my bottle. Looks like;

I brought my racebike into the house for the winter. It gets cold in the garage and the bike doesn't have antifreeze in it.

It's an x-ray, that doesn't show up anyway. (or maybe just couldn't find it) Always up for steak and beer. Will do my best to try and make a couple of the monthly get togethers this winter.

So a quick update from the land of the (recently) walking wounded. Doctor gave me permission to start full weight bearing on my injured leg this morning. I finally get to start driving again and the worst part is I now have a date to start back to work (dangit ). Anyways, if you wanted to see my metal detector test kit I won as a door prize for this whole event. The picture of my pelvis doesn't show much but the metal, this one of my wrist though you can see all the fracture lines between the left set of screws and the one that's roughly in the middle.

You would need a pressure gauge to hook up to the Schrader valve on the motor. Check fuel pressure individually with each tank selected. Fuel pressure low with both tanks is most likely the regulator, low on either front or rear tank then you would need to check the valve and pumps. The symptoms my dad saw was when switching to the back tank the engine would quit. The pump could be heard running but fuel pressure dropped off. If he ran the switch in the cab back and forth a few times the selector valve would finally switch enough to let the fuel past and the truck would run.

If I'm remembering correctly on that motor the fuel pressure regulator is on the fuel rail. Both pumps can be working fine but the regulator can still bypass too much back to the tanks. My dad had that model truck years ago and seem to remember he had an issue that the valve that switched between the two tanks on his got funky towards the end. Sometimes had to switch back and forth a few times to get the rear tank to work.

I stopped up on Saturday and grabbed a new lid. Gotta get ready for next season and start replacing all the stuff I tore up in my crash.

I'll admit to being a 1911 fanboy. I have two, a Kimber custom carry and a Springfield. I "had" an XDM in 45 also and found I couldn't hit with it. Everyone I let shoot it, shot the dumb thing better than me. It found a new home. I am really wanting to try the HK in a .45 next as I have heard good things about them. Not sure on the others you mentioned, it's hard for me to put the 1911's in the back of the safe.

No problem, I wasn't sure if they were correct but figured I would toss out the option if you had a compatibility chart handy. Good luck.

I have a set of stock 2006 Showa Ducati 749 forks. Not sure if they will work for what you're after.

Came up as $11.80 for me. What for heck?