vf1000ride

So, quick progress update. It's starting to look more like an actual rifle.

Hot soapy water as with any other blackpowder gun. Followed by a good gun oil. Read up on a couple of the online articles on loading. I like to put bore butter on top of the ball after it is seated in the cylinder. It prevents flashover and helps to keep barrel deposits soft enough to clean out.

Most forum posts I can find people are saying between 28-30 grains of 3f black powder and the .454 diameter ball as they stay in better.

Euroarms is who made it. Rogers and Spencer was the original version that came out in the 1800's. They still list it on the Euroarms website. Says it takes a .451 diameter ball and #11 caps.

What brand, Uberti or Pietta, other? Caliber? any date markings? Check under the loading lever for possible extra info. Most reproduction black powder manufacturer put info under there. It looks more like a Spiller&Burr style gun than Colt or Remington. 3f powder would more than likely be correct. Oversized balls yes but it depends on brand of the pistol as to how much oversized. Most .44 cal guns can use a .451-.454 caliber ball but my Uberti made Colt Walker need a .457 ball to work correctly. Caps run into the same problem, some guns will need a #10 cap and others #11 caps. It depends on the size of the nipple installed in it. Again, most guns run the #10 cap but my Walker runs a #11 just to make my life hard.

I got the stripped lower just because Brownells had the Bushmaster ones on sale for $49.99. They are First's, not blems. I had an AR years ago that didn't run worth a darn and can't say I even really like the AR platform but I guess now is time to build one while prices are cheap. So far I have the following parts either at home of waiting to deliver; Bushmaster xm-15 lower Bushmaster V-Match upper Bushmaster BCG Magpul STR Stock Magpul MOE grip and trigger bow. Palmetto state lower complete parts kit, w/trigger and buffer tube. Palmetto state ambi charging handle. Still need a barrel, gas system, front handguard and sights. Probably some extras here and there but it's getting close. Here is the one I had years ago that didn't work right.

Same thing here. Not only first stripped lower but it will be the only black rifle I own when finished. I got the upper at the same time. Still looking at options for barrels and such.

I updated my 10/22 a little, it got a new scope last week. Bushnell Banner 6-18x50mm. Got it sighted in at 75ft at the local indoor range, still need to get it outdoors and stretch it's legs a little.

I need to put mine in with the pool table just for classic one ups. I already have the poster hanging in there and it would complete things to have the bike sitting there also.

Price is no object. I have been riding for two seasons with my Phantom II's and love them. Just do it.

The stand is a Baxley LA model front chock with Triumph logo's added to it. As for the extended logo plate, no clue, it looks to attach to the existing pins on the front of the Baxley chock and is probably custom. Did you ask the dealer who they had make it for them and see if you can get another one made for you. You don't need to buy their floor piece if you can get another one produced.

The people that go to Walmart/Best Buy and pick out the cheapest desktop PC on the shelf probably would have no clue how to use a Linux based machine anyway so in all honesty I don't feel sorry for them. They are limited to the choice of Mac or Windows because this is what the market and advertising dollars have led them to believe are their only choices. They have not opened their eyes to the true possibilities of modern computing and they have not cared enough to research the situation. I have never purchased a new retail computer that was assembled and running an OS. Every computer I have owned since 1997 has been purchased as components and assembled by me. Assuming no hardware failures I average 5-6 years from a pc before I build another one as that is usually how long it takes for game development to catch up to the hardware limits of the computer. I would never conceive of paying for a low spec PC assembled in a foreign country with the lowest possible costing components built to a corporate profit limit. This gives me much more freedom of choice for both system specs and also operating system. I have 2 windows only pc's. A winxp machine that dual boots with Ubuntu and I have an old netbook running Lubuntu. Whats sad is that just due to pure ease of use my main computer is windows only. It is rare I mess with the Linux machines these days. The people I feel more sorry for are the tech savvy people who want a laptop with the non-standard OS. That's when you get the shaft because you can't just buy the parts and build your own. You are limited to what the major players in the laptop manufacturing market tell you to buy.

I have all but boycotted New Albany. Never once had a good experience up there. I have shot there and even purchased a handgun there and it just seems like they exude a constant shit attitude that they know more or are somehow better than you. This was before they had their on-range deaths the other year so who knows if that attitude has changed since then. I personally refuse to go back. Vances down town is like going to Walmart Christmas eve. You might eventually get what you want but you will need to take a ticket and stand in line for sometimes an hour to buy it. I live 5 minutes from the Bullet Ranch, their shelf stock has been getting much better and the gun cases are starting to fill up nicely. Haven't purchased a firearm from them yet so I haven't spent much time looking to see if their prices are in line. The pistol range is nice and I shot their the one day. Prices for amount of shooting time are reasonable. It's almost brand new so lighting and range quality look good with digital target runners and fairly good ventilation. Most of my shooting is still out at Briar Rabbit in Zanesville. It's all outdoors but if you go during the week the place is generally empty and you have the range to yourself. This year has been kind of inconvenient as they have had things torn up. They moved the direction the rifle range faces so It has been really muddy, they still go out to 400yards. Last week they were pouring a new concrete slab for the shooting benches at the rifle range. Other than that, they are upgrading the crap out of the place and can't wait to see how it turns out. I am good with paying a little more for annual dues seeing the owners are putting as much time and effort into upgrades as they have this year.

That's why you need a goatee like mine. It's the mullet of facial hair. Smooth on the sides to please the thighs. Tickle'n the middle to keep her squiggle'n.

Grow a mans chin that doesn't need some crazy goo to make your face comfortable.

Come on now. It's $32.5K and it comes with the first two scratches already in it. Just think of all the depreciation your saving.

Being this thread came back. Here are pictures of a piece of steel I purchased just for the reason of punching holes in it. Shot it at 100 yards with my Garand running 1950's vintage .30-06 AP ammo. The plate is 3/4 inch thick unknown grade, I got it from the pile at the scrap yard for $14. You notice that some of the bullet cores are still in the plate. That happened as the plate started to fall over backwards in the mud and they just didn't have the energy to continue pushing through the steel. First pick is the front side (bullets went in) Back side. (bullets came out)

I wouldn't blindly trust what the manual says for charging voltage on the bike. Check the actual voltage with a voltmeter and see what the output is. You could have a problem somewhere in your charging system and that could be whats damaging the batteries and not the battery tender. On my bike I added one of the Clearwater voltage sentries http://clearwaterlights.com/infopg_cvs.html%C2'> so I could watch running battery voltage at all times. Ducati is known to have put substandard charging systems on my model bike. For all the added complexity of the Lithium batteries I don't normally recommend them to people. They are still a new technology and the manufactures don't always have a good process yet to ensure longevity. Lead acid may be heavy and not pretty but it has been around for 100+ years give or take and the manufacturers generally have the process figured out.

I have had a Shorai battery in my Ducati for going on almost 2 years now. I know it's a different brand than what you purchased but they recommend you never use a battery tender style charger on them long term. It should only be used to bring it to a full charge and disconnected, leaving it hooked up once the battery is fully charged will damage it. I broke down and bought their special charger that plugs into the port on the battery and individually balance charges each cell. I don't doubt that they can't load test a Lithium battery, they have a different discharge output curve than a standard lead acid and the testers will not give an accurate reading. It is also not good for them to drop voltage down to levels below 12-13 volts. Most of them once they hit 10V or lower while not being used are trashed and will never work right again. What is the running voltage of your motorcycles charging system? Even that can hurt the battery. The lithium batteries are very sensitive to a charging system output and should be between 13.6 and 14.4 volts with the bike running. Anything outside of that will shorten the life of the battery.

So being everybody is on sunset beach pictures. This was from my last trip down to the Gulf coast of Florida.

I had never thought to google something like that. Some of those are harsh looking. I guess I am a dinosaur and prefer checkering on my guns instead of randomly placed dimples. I certainly understand the checkering doesn't work well on a polymer gun and that stippling is probably the best option. Oh well, to each his own.

Not sure how you would stipple the metal on a 1911 frame? Mine came checkered from the factory. Front strap, back strap and the trigger guard are all textured. The rosewood grips that it came with are really to smooth. Like you guys though, my hands sweat alot and I wanted something I could rely on to give me good control so I went for a more aggressive finish on the grips.

Those wire would be twisted together, wirenutted and pushed back into the hole were they couldn't be reached.

I stippled the grips on my 1911. Well no, sorry, I just screwed new ones on it.

You actually didn't do too bad. Getting a good picture of the moon is harder than you would think. For as big as it looks in the sky, it is actually very small when you want to get a good picture of it. The human eye is a far more superior "camera" than most give it credit for. I took this one tonight for the fun of it so I missed the redish tints you picked up. This time of year is getting better for taking shots of it but the biggest factor that will be outside of your control is atmospheric disturbance. Pic a time and day with the least amount of wind and the smallest amount of temperature changes to reduce blur caused by the sky itself. It will help you get a more crisp image. Your also going to need some fairly large, high quality lenses to get an image like what Locel posted a few pages back. I've never been able to pull it off. I don't have any really good long range lenses so this is a 100% crop on the original. I shoot DSLR with a Cannon Rebel T1I, EF24-105mm f/4L lens. When you take a night shot that's within the capability of your equipment and it turns out just right, it can be very cool. I took this in the spring on my ride down at the dragon. It's was roughly 10pm and was just the perfect night for it. I should have gone for just a little less flare off the windows but there is no redoing it at this point.