vf1000ride

Anybody going out Monday 21st from the Columbus area. Odd request and all but need to spend some time at the bar and hate drinking alone.

Shelby Daytona Coupe. Even if it's a kit car, just love the looks of that thing.

I think I have seen the picture but think it belongs in the "I want peni" thread and not this one.

Huh, what? The Bill of Rights came into effect in 1791. The first true machine gun by any standard was the hand cranked Gatling gun. That wasn't invented until 1861. Really hoping you just worded that wrong, otherwise you been fed some very poor information.

Went to the range with a bunch of guys today. All kinds of lucky and missed the rain. Got to chronograph the Luger so now I can start pumping out the 9mm reloads and know what speeds I am at. My Automag II that I picked up last week is working very nicely also. Then some fun down at the rifle range. The Mosin makes such nice fireballs on a cloudy day. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yRtdwT4xetQ

Have you taken the cover off the front sprocket and make sure that it is tight on the output shaft? Not sure on your bike how it is secured but if it has a big nut on it and that nut came loose. It could mean the clunking is the front sprocket wearing away at your output shaft.

I rode Barber 2 years ago with the Penguin school. Awesome track and worth every penny. I don't have the vacation time for this year to do it or that would be a very tempting event.

Better rush to the store and buy as many as you can afford. Those things will be next on the Ban Wagon as soon as Obuma is done taking all the other dangerous items away from society.

I'm in the same boat. I had one probably 10-12 years ago and sold it due to how picky it was. The last few years I have been wanting one again. Found this one locally so I did the deal. Can't wait to get the mini fireball machine out to the range for the first time.

Ok, so we obviously read his writing style completely differently. This was my main complaint at the end of my reply. His article is so poorly written that two people who both ride and understand motorcycle physics in our own ways come to 2 completely different viewpoints as too what he is trying to imply. I would agree with probably 90% of his statements if somewhere in his writing he would put an obvious statement that the article and his theory is based solely on the dynamics of a cornering bike. I don't feel he makes that clear and his writing can be construed as a train wreck of theory for upright riding mixed with the theory of cornering. I do maintain my statement though about the internet troll bit. The article is written so poorly I would have expected something like that from a troll and not from a motorcycle safety expert. Look over the last page and a half of posts on our forum. The viewpoints are very mixed with nobody agreeing. Is that not what would constitute stirring the shit or trolling on this forum in any other situation? It has caused the two of us to get into a pissing match over who understands his writing style better and it is for no good reason. I have never felt the need before this to question anything you have posted and probably never will in the future either. If the person that wrote the article was on the forum, he would have been called out to explain the meaning of his article and to justify bold statements about motorcycle physics, that depending on the situation, few people can agree with.

That just shows how poorly written that article is. I have reread it and still don't get your impression of the situation from his writing style. If you want to limit stability talks to the bikes stability only when cornering, sure his statements can apply. He is claiming though, with no other extraneous text that "If you lock your rear brake while traveling at 100 MPH your bike will fall over." I am saying that in a straight line that is a false statement. A skilled rider can lock the back tire and ride it to a safe stop without crashing if it is done while the bike is upright. That is why I posted the video of the stoppie. It shows that the rear tire can have no grip on the road and even by radically changing steering angle and even negating his restoring force theory that a motorcycle can remain stable from well over 100mph to almost a dead stop. His second to last paragraph continues to confuse the issue of if he means the bike is upright or leaning from my point of view. 1st sentence He claims that once the wheel is locked it will cause the bike to fall over in a matter of seconds. That makes it sound like you could have been cornering and that is a fair statement. The very next sentence then goes on to say that road anomalies will begin the rear end yawing and the bike will slide out from under you. This makes it sound like you where upright. If you were corning at this point you don't need road anomalies to cause the crash, it's gonna happen regardless of surface conditions. Why even bring road conditions into a statement like that if it was meant to imply that you were corning. Road conditions are a moot point with a locked rear wheel for all situations other than fully upright. The entire article is written on a level I would have expected an internet forum troll to write. It contains too little info to make a fair judgement of the situation and then makes bold and radical statement based on a situation that was not properly defined. Due to poor wording it seems that it contradicts itself and it tries to ignore or dismiss several aspects of the dynamics that make motorcycles functional. He may make good points in some of his other articles but with how poorly worded this one is I have no want to read any of the others.

Got a new handgun the other day. Went and got an early model AMT AutomagII. Haven't shot it yet and I am really itching to go. 6inch barrel, 9 shots, 22 magnum.

Sorry, I believe very little of that article. Locking a back tire at 100+ can be ridden out. I have done it from the 90mph range under panic braking and certainly didn't crash. Now granted I recognized the locked tire and didn't try to ride it all the way to a stop but it certainly didn't throw me in the street either. I also feel the explanation of the stability coming from steering head angles, rake and trail to be over-rated also. All of those things are extremely important with both tires on the ground and with full traction but how do you explain a bikes stability in a wheelie or stoppie when all that fancy geometry is tossed out the window. Here's a perfect example of a dude riding out a stoppie from 130+ mph. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AVSn4FbQiTA I don't see his bike immediately crashing when the back tire lifted off. It didn't crash as he slowed down with only the front wheel. Heck trail and rake went out the window as soon as the frame rotates around the axis of the front axle and even then it didn't crash. So what does our famous "recognized expert witness in the fields of Motorcycle Safety/Dynamics." have to say about that. If it's not rear wheel traction, it's not the front wheels engineered steering ability. What keeps the bike stable? God forbid it would be vehicle speed and gyroscopic stability.

Can we get a non-mobile web browser link that works?

Easiest thing I can say to try and troubleshoot the problem is to get the bike up on a rear stand. Put the transmission in gear and then start rocking the rear tire back and forth by hand. Hopefully you will be able to reproduce the clunk and find out if it is inside the engine cases or if it's in the final drive. If it's not in the chain or final drive the next place to look is the pivot at the front of the swingarm. Make sure the bearings that the swingarm pivots on are still good. You can check that with a friend. You need to see if there is any side to side or front to back motion of the swing arm where it meets the motor. Basically somebody holds the bike steady and you try to wrestle the back tire. If the swingarm moves and the rest of the bike stays steady, you found it.

I am part of the depends on the gun crowd. I have an old Stevens 22 that can not be dry fired. It damages the barrel and then a new round will not fit in the chamber. It takes about two hours with a welder and a chamber reamer to repair the damage from dry firing. CZ-52 pistols should never be dry fired, the firing pins are known to be brittle and will break. Luger P-08 handgun, same problem with brittle firing pins. All my other guns, I dry fire all the time. My snubnosed Smith was the most impressive. When it was new it would throw small sparks off the firing pin when the hammer hit it. Now that it is wearing in it has stopped doing that.

This is how you do a burnout with a truck. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M5Au8IcwB5k

What caliber tracers? Pistol I am assuming due to the lower velocity.

Follow this and see what you come up with; Click the Start button> click Control Panel> click Hardware> and then click Mouse. Click the Pointer Options tab, and then do the following: Uncheck the Hide pointer while typing box. If that doesn't help I would do some very heavy malware and anti-virus scans to be sure you don't have some garbage running in the background that is interfering with the cursor.

Rife and bayonet are sold.

I knew there was a few Enfield guys on this forum and figured I would give it a shot here first. Saves cross country shipping. Gun is an Enfield produced rifle.

Looking to sell one of my Enfields. It's a 1914 dated Enfield No1MK3 chambered in .303 British. It is the first version gun that still has the magazine cut off door. Wood parts were replaced when I returned the gun to military spec(it had been sporterized). They fit nicely but are not original to the rifle. Very accurate with a good bore. I've fired plenty of ammo through it over the years. Headspace is good and the bolt and trigger are butter smooth. Asking $375. http://www.ohioriders.net/ I also have an original P-1907 Bayonet to fit the rifle. Sanderson Manufactured in 3/1918. Scabbard is original to the era with most of the paint gone off the tip, the frog is a modern repop. Blade is in good condition with no corrosion. Date markings on the blade are crisp and clear, manufacturer marks are light. Asking $100 I can easily take more pictures if anybody is interested in them. Thank you.

I don't know, I got a good deal on some ammo. 50 rounds of .303 brit LMkV blanks for $20. Felt that was the best deal on crimp nose blanks I have seen for a while. It was the only thing I purchased while there. I didn't sell my Enfield I was carrying around with me but that is fine. My buddies found the sign hanging off the top of the bayonet a handy marker when we got separated.

In all seriousness though, if your book is calling for 10wt. You should probably stick with that. The only time you would change the oil for a different viscosity is if you are having problems with the damping on a non-adjustable fork. Then you would go up one oil grade to firm up the forks or down a grade to soften the forks. Going from 10 down to 5 is going two steps down and like others have said, it will change your fork performance by too much and is probably not recommended.