Gixxus Christ!

I've ran delkevics on my bikes before. Put a stainless header and a set of 19" oval stainless on my xj600. Very good tone and fitment was perfect. Very good quality for the price, I think it cost me $500 for a full dual system.

UUpdate?

Not falsifying. My bike is 41 years old. It's historical, so the punishment you cite does not apply. I don't plan on riding it daily, just want to be able to take it to work once in a while and maybe to show a few friends. Why so serious?

Anyway I guess I could just look and see who all has a weekly bike night around me...got weds covered for sure.

I like how you describe an every day driver that's still being driven every day after 25 years and a few hundred thousand miles as a 'piece of shit'. You may wanna revise your definition.

(Nods approvingly)

Which valves are we looking at?

That's pretty much what I figured....but this bike is old, fast and loud and I'm not that bright so contact with the local constabulary is likely...but I guess I can just put on a show wherever I park it. 'I'm on my way from a show at subway and I'm heading to a show at the ice cream place down the road. I organize these shows myself. They tend to be pretty short notice.'

I filed for historical plates for the superhonda today, should come in the mail next week. Rules state I have to be riding in a parade or to or from a bike show. So we need loopholes. I don't plan on hooning the cammer daily but I sure as fuck won't be in any parades. I guess 'bike show' is a loosely defined term and idk if the state has detailed what circumstances would be needed for something to be a bike show. So far I have one pretty solid loophole figured out: I get pulled over. Cop: why are you riding around on historical plates? Where's the parade/show? Me: "I'm selling this bike on the internet. I don't trust strangers to come to my house and case it with the intention of returning to steal my easily hot wired classic motorcycle so I'm on my way to/back from meeting the potential buyer at (wherever is close to wherever I'm heading to/coming from). Cop: ok, be careful. Lbts, glws. Yeah?

Evidence points to hd buttfucking Buell and using their previously good rep as a sport bike manufacturer to get away with it. Leave it to the t shirt company to design and market a dog of a motor and high tail it with the cash....only this time they stomped Erik and beginner riders in the yam bags instead of the leather vest crowd.

Water pump won't piss out the weep hole unless it's spinning. Wire to block won't hurt anything. The system is designed to short to ground by making a spark. Odd that both rear cylinders were low on compression.....and that a squirting of oil brought 1 and 2 up. It's not natural for oil to be above the piston. I can see how having oil in there could force the cyl to make more compression by creating a hydro seal but the motor shouldn't need it. Starting to sound fishy....like a head issue....even if the marks line up on the belt and cogs outside the head, there's still either a chain or gear drive transferring the motion from each external cog to the two cams inside the head...I'd like to see inside the valve covers, make sure the cams actually jive with the timing marks outside the motor. I accept beers graciously. Hope you can get it sorted out bud.

Hard to diagnose when several systems have issues like this. I assume 3&4 are on the same bank? So they share a head gasket? If that's the case I'd look there first...refill the rad, put one at tdc, plug air hose into spark plug hole and see if your radiator bubbles, repeat for other cyl. I guess ring wash is a possibility for your lack of conpression, but it seems like it would have SOME. Zero compression usually means major mechanical failure or gasket failure. I know you just replaced the plugs, but did you try a brand new just opened today plug? How about no plug, just the wire to block?

I personally wouldn't buy one for anything other than to flip it in the spring for some cash. A 500 cc pushrod 2 valve single is about as limited of a motor as you will ever find in terms of power.

No coolant in rad points to water pump. When they fail they piss all the fluid out of the weep hole. Your temp sensor measures coolant temp; no coolant=nothing to sense. Zero compression on 3&4 points to either head gasket failure or valve timing/failure. Blown head gasket could also be responsible for coolant loss; half your engine essentially becomes a water pump and the exhaust is the outlet. No spark could be from fouling due to burning a radiator worth of coolant. I'd check for spark with a known good plug.

As long as you're using hdmi you will be stuck with the audio from whatever video source you choose.

I thought god had Christ crucified? Unless an all-powerful being that knows everything that will ever happen just didn't see that shit coming...

I sat on one last week, now I'm pretty sure I need one too....very comfortable riding position, not quite upright but not as hard of a tuck as say...my tl1k. More power than anyone ever needs and baller status. Get one. Get me one too.

Never understood it either but I have a theory. Identity theft and Internet crime are extremely popular these days and people are scared, so they do whatever they can do to preserve some anonymity online. The fact they choose to cover their plate and give out their phone number shows they're just not that bright.

The old guts. Notice the brown sludge...

After pic of rebuilt master cyl. Nick, upload the pic you took of the guts we pulled out last night to photobucket and then post the img link on here....or send me the pic if you don't have a photobucket.

100-90-19 front and 120-90-18 rear. I think I also have a spoked 17" rear wheel somewhere I could use if someone has a 17" tire. Even if the tires aren't worn or dry rotted, if they're older than 5 (I think) years they've lost most of the oils in the compound and are probably too hard to use safely.

Left and right refer to the sides of the aisle they sit in the Senate

Hooned around the neighborhood a d noticed that my front brakes were nearly worthless. Ordered a rebuild kit and tore down the master cyl...what a mess. All the rubber was shot and everything was full of nasty brown brake fluid, rust and dirt...probably the oem guts from '72. Rebuilt it today, should have brakes tonight. Also gonna get a tag and locate a tire and this job is in the bag.

Yeah....I know...I have one. I've found that it's more efficient to remove the cause instead of mediating the symptoms, and at $.26 apiece there's really no downside to just replacing the screws, especially if you're tuning the carbs and will likely need to pull, disassemble and reassemble several times.