Cordell

Shitty

That just throws off the dogs, there's lots of dope under the Dew.

Op- your post is pretty vague, what exactly would you like help with?

Depends a lot on the design and intended use of the clutch, obviously with two or three disks there is more surface area, but this can help hold more power while being streetable or just to hold more power and chatter and grab like a race clutch. The LS9 clutch is a ver streetable clutch that will hold over 900hp, but something like a much cheaper McLeod dual disk will chatter and be much less streetable at the same power level. It can be hard to compare driving feel and ability because there are so many choices out there. If you are going to wear out your new clutch before you do many major mods I would stick with something closer to stock. A full size single disk (12" clutch) is typically going to be similar to stock until you get into agressive materials. A smaller diameter clutch (11" or so in LS1 land) is typically going to be more agressive and keep weight down, but likely to chatter and have a small window of engaugment. Dual and triple disk clutches are going to be similar, but for them to be "stockish" they are going to be really expensive, iirc an LS9 package would cost around $1800. You need to decide what your goals are and how you want the car to behave, and decide what fits in that when you factor in your budget. Have you ever driven a really aggressive clutch? Some people can tolerate a lot more then others, so you get into the old "what's really streetable" argument. Best of luck, I'll continue to try and help if I can. You should read a lot of the decriptions of the clutches on Tickperformance.com it may help you out.

Yeah I was having fun, and my tires felt greasy all day. Over driving the car is a blast and it makes my daughter happy so most of the time I can't resist.

Front diffs are a common issue so you may be on to something there. I'd have to hear it to be sure, because the diff should make that kind of noise slowing down from most speeds, 70mph seems kind of high just to make it do it.

Well I wanted a stockish feel because I cruise in the car much more then race it at this point, and having a ceramic single disk with a sprung center was important to me. The stage 3 has pucks and wouldn't be as smooth and easy to drive, not that its impossible to do just not what I was after. I did the 500 miles to break it in, it's basically to heat cycle everything to make it consistant and last longer so I would suggest at least doing it some with any clutch. I drive it fairly normal most of the time, but I'm not afraid to power shift it. Brute Speed was much cheaper then anyone including Monster.

Glad you tried it Doc, and I certainly don't mind giving some basic instruction, it was a great day. The event was over run by CR members, and just about every trophy went to a CR member.

Yeah as far as GM is concerned 1 quart for 1500 miles is normal, if you or I would consider normal doesn't matter that's GM's take, and it's not uncommon. AFM causes lots of stupid issues with varying cylinder temp stuff carboning up and the rings sticking. The latest GM procedures involve making sure the engine has the most updated PCV setup, and then doing a top engine cleaning/soak. Honestly this usually does a good job at reducing consumption, though it doesn't sound like your nearly as bad off as most people. If that doesn't help then it would involve pistons and rings. Sucks for you that its a Saab, because if it were a Chevy GM would likely help you out. AFM lifters have nothing to do with consumption, when they go bad they typically get stuck in a closed position and the engine misfires. They are controlled by oil flow and can have issues if there is a consumption problem, but it would not be the cause. This is another good reason to not be stingy when it comes to oil changes, and why oil level is important. As for your driveline clunk thump, that could be a lot of things, the platform sucks, and while I could show you a bulliten that makes it out to be normal, I could show you bullitens that list various noises. So that is something I can't help with across the internet, it could be something, or it really could just be the nature of slack in the driveline. I don't know without inspecting the vehicle and I'm not going to throw guesses across the interwebs.

Well I make a little more power then that in my Camaro and decided to go with a Monster level 2. It drive like stock, holds the power, and is very consitant in feel. I've driven a few cars with an LS7 clutch and they can feel inconsistant the way the pressure plate is designed, though they're not a bad option I just prefer the way a basic strong performance clutch feels. People will tell you lots of good and bad things about clutches, but a properly set up clutch with good hydrolics will make the most difference. I know people who've had Spec, McLeod, and GM clutches without any real issue. I would strongly suggest you consider upgrading to a nice master cylinder like Tick or Hawks. They make a huge difference, and you'll find lots of good info on LS1Tech.com in their manual trans section on everything I'm talking about. If you do want to go with Monster Clutch, check out Brute Speed.com, bought a few items from him without issue and you can not beat the prices. The Tick adjustable master, and Hawks is identical as they both use a Tilton master with the apropriate mounting provisions. Hawks is a few bucks cheaper on ebay, this is what I have. Best of luck, hope this helps.

If it's what I'm picturing on most gas tanks, yes it should be fine.

Leaving for QS&L now.

Might actually get up this week.

and here you have it. Can't make up for overhead of a store and employees selling everything at rock bottom pricing. The store has been closed for a few months now, and I guess reynoldsburg police have been pushing the few old guys that used to hang out down there on friday/saturday nights out. It's a change I didn't like, but what can you do?

If somebody worth a damn works on the car they'd know to take care of that, and lots of cars are like that.

Yup the jellynose is where they hide the tranmitter back to Jihad

I think its a drone fish. You should be afraid.

Depends on the age of the system in question, older stuff before EVAP systems would vent through the cap, but anything for the last 20 years would vent through the EVAP system. So yes it has to vent to prevent exessive pressure buildup. You can get a dangerously swollen fuel tank if it's not vented correctly, albeit not really the norm. New stuff won't even fill correctly if the vent doesn't work. As for your specific application maybe you can just vent the filler neck somehow outside of the vehicle and seal the cap. Would take a little thought to make it work right.

http://www.quickmeme.com/img/ee/ee4a52af9e0121ef10733c9a84247de63c4f2b83d5ccb27b53679df2fbdb7944.jpg I'm guessing FULL RETARD!

People don't realize how much some little things make the difference, the record pass is so much smoother then the others. Watch how little he has to correct during the run, when things go right the car doesn't even wear you out.

So what caused that? Was there water or oil down in that hole. Spark plugs tend to corrode and rust on the top side of the hex either way so I'm not sure that proves water intrusion. Did the car run bad or misfire? I don't have any real world experience with VWs to even know what's typical of them, but if it were just my car and it ran fine, I'd just use it. However without knowing the cause, I doubt I'd want to leave that on a customers car, but I'd want to know why so it didn't happen again.

Yeah it would be the 4L60, if it was a 3/4 ton it would likely have the 80.

Its very appreciated Doc, its just crazy how many of those you hand out for 36 people to use them.

Whether you buy one before or after this is worth checking out. http://www.covvc.org/volksfest.htm I went a couple years ago just to check it out, lots of nice stuff and I'm sure lots of info to be found.

That Angry Dyno Midget is a really good guy. Good to see happy customers.