Nitrousbird

Ghetto rims + useless and out of place cowl hood = not cool. Sorry to inform you of this.

Not that much....94k mile bone stock shortblock running just peachy and doesn't burn a drop of oil. smile.gif

In an easier equation to read: MPH = (RPM x tire diameter in inches)/(final ratio x gear ratio x 336) The equation is very useful for finding gearing you need for the 1/4 mile. One thing it doesn't take into account is convert slip (for autos) and tire growth, which isn't much of an issue until you are running pretty large diameter tires. Convert slip is a BIG issue though. Best gearing for the 1/4 is to have it geared to hit your max HP RPM in your 1:1 gear at the finish line (or whatever will take most advantage of your peak power curve). This is where I am suffering; w/ my RPM range and running 26.2" ET Streets, my 3.73 gears are too much....they would be great if I was trapping 140 (but at that speed, I'd probably move up to a 28" tire, making that gearing even worse!). 4.10's would be the perfect gear for me; allow for some growth but much more ideal all around. But when I got my rear end, I didn't have the extra 1000RPM to play with.

Faster than yours, and that's all you should be worried about noob. I have friends with 9 second cars, what's your point?

No, he has a Moser 9" w/ a locker he is trying to sell.

I have a fully loaded Moser 12-bolt (HD cover, HD Eaton Posi, 33 spline, ABS, 1350 yoke). I've abused it without any issues, other than breaking other driveline parts.....aka clutch and a driveshaft. At the time, a Moser 9" wasn't available to me; I'd probably go 9" simply because of the removable center section. Would probably go w/ the Strage 12-bolt removeable section (basically the best worlds of both the 9" and the 12-bolt).

I can't recall the company, but the video was posted here a while ago. 7xx HP on stock shortblock, stock heads and cam....new springs and a couple other tricks + lots of boost, alky injection, tons of tuning, etc. They maxed out the turbo but didn't kill the motor. Z06 Vette kit making high 600's on 9.5psi: http://www.turbochargedpower.com/Corvette.htm

#1: Have someone that understands how the air and fuel system operates on your car look at it #2: When removing cats, you need to either run simiulators, or better yet, reprogram the PCM. This can be done by a custom programmer (such as using LS1_Edit or that other software that is out now...can't recall the name), or using a hand-held job, like a POS Hyperjunk, Jet-crap, or the Diablosport programmer. #3: If it's a front O2 problem, go buy a new O2 sensor. But the O2 sensor will have nothing to do with how the car runs in power enrichment mode (typically 75% or more throttle application, but there are a lot of variables to this.....to make it easy, if the car runs like crap at wide open throttle, it IS NOT THE O2 SENSOR).

I worked outside much of the day yesterday. Drove w/ the windows down in the Mustang as well, which was a nice change. Of course it snowed today, and I had to be outside for an extended amount of time today.

As a bunch of us have posted, LOOK AT A GTP. It fits exactly in your needs, and is roomy enough to hold the family.

I'm going to have to say no. My 95 Jimmy (pre blowing up motor) has 195HP, something like 260ft/lb of torque, 3.73's with 31" tires, and I'd say 4000lbs is a bit much for it. It pulls my estimated 2800lb boat without much of an issue, but I wouldn't want to pull 4000lbs often/at all with it, and definately not over that. I'd guestimate the Cherokee wouldn't be able to tow any more than my Jimmy. I'd definately go with something that has a V8 under the hood if towing that much.

GTP.

Yup, my 155k mile 95 Jimmy has full coverage on it, and I only paid $2200 for it (though I did get a hell of a deal). I'm having a hard time believe the $3400/year from all providers. I was paying $2500/year w/ my Formula back when I was 20, and that was with 2 tickets and a break-in insurance claim, and we are talking a high-risk vehicle here, not an economy car!

"Vortech" doesn't mean much on those motors. What year motor is it?? Both the MSFI and CPI motors are "Vortech" motors, but are VERY different. There's a ton of stuff available for them, especially the later model "Vortech" motors, and the TBI motors. Bowtie 4.3L blocks, stroker cranks, of course any rod/piston/rocker you could want as they are swapable with a SBC. I haven't seen much of anything in terms of aftermarket heads. Cams are easy to get, there are a few header setups out there. Tranny/rear end stuff is easy to come by. A good amount of suspension stuff available. Vortech and Powerdyne both offer superchargers for the 96+ trucks. Can always go the Sy/Ty motor route as well.

Awesome!!

Shhhh, domestic cars (ESPECIALLY RWD cars) aren't supposed to be able to handle. Don't let the secret out!!

I have a bunch of baseball cards from the 80's I put in a card folder and never touched since. I'd love to unload some of them if I could get any real cash out of it. A couple years I have the entire sets of a couple of brands.

Awesome

Your car's wing makes me sad.

I know. smile.gif

From what I've been told by a couple of machine shops, welding an iron block is not a fun job (I have a cracked 3.0L boat block that is very hard to source another one for a non-insane price). Basically they said only a few shops do it, and requires the block to be heated in a furnace prior to welding, welded, and cooled in a controlled environment = not cheap, and sometimes doesn't even work.

Have them take more taxes out. smile.gif

I doubt a modular motor CAI will work. I haven't found the remainder of the stock airbox, and honestly I think I'd rather have a CAI kit anyway, especially since I'm buying the car. smile.gif

Which is why you always tell them you never installed the item. Their rules are meant to be broken. tongue.gif

Hehehehe