twistedfocus1647545489

+ 1 for Newegg. I have been a loyal customer of theirs through nearly 40 builds after trying several other companies. On the rare occasion I've had a problem, it was dealt with in a quick, professional manner.

+1 NTB. I have always had good luck there (multiple locations, but mostly West Broad behind the mall), and they are one of the few places that haven't questioned my puposely-out-of-spec alignment requests.

No problem. I wasn't meaning "hey, you're wrong". I was just pointing out that TBI is kind of the evolutionary step between carburetors and more modern Multi-point systems used on engines today (which is the type you were thinking of). Multi-Point systems use an injector per cylinder and are typically located on the intake manifold very near the intake runner of the head (like on your Hyundai). It makes for better efficiency and flexibility b/c your intake just has to flow air, and not a mix of air and fuel that you have to hope stays atomized and distributes evenly (as is the case with Carbs and TBI).

TBI= Throttle Body Injection. An early form of EFI where the injectors (in this case 2) are mounted on top of the throttle body and spray through it. Kind of the gap between carburetion and Multi-Point EFI like on your Hyundai. As far as blocking the water passage heating the TBI unit, its possible that it could help with mileage by decreasing the temp of the air charge, but older GM TBI systems seem to be very inflexible to change and I wouldn't be surprised if it caused some other drivability/tune issues, especially when it's cold out. AFAIK you're on the right track as to what it's purpose is, quicker warmup/emissions compliance, but the factory tune is done with all of these kinds of things in place and it doesn't take alot of deviation to cause other problems. I have not personally done it, though, and it might be worth a try.

Doesn't take much. I think I used about 2 quarts last time, but had 3 on hand just in case. Just make sure the dif is fairly level and fill until it comes out the fill plug. I would use 90wt. I have also read alot about not using synthetics, but I have always had pretty good luck with synthetics. When I swapped the Eaton for a Torsen I used Red Line Shock Proof (Heavy). It's a 75w90 that they claim has the shock protection of a 75w250 (and some scientific jargon about "particulate solids").

The Dynomax "Truck Staxx" are 4" diameter and might be a bit of a chore to adapt to a significantly smaller pipe. If you're starting with a 3" dia. single pipe, you could probably use a 3''-4'' adapter and then Dynomax's 4" splitter. It's an expensive, but good quality kit at least (I am not personally a fan of stacks either). Probably worth it if it's in the budget. I have seen people put together something custom alot cheaper though. I would think that with some basic Super Turbos or something it wouldn't sound that bad. I would just stay away from anything resembling a glasspack unless it's the only thing you can make fit.

If they don't show any "exceptions" then it may very well arrive on time. i have seen alot of cases where something just doesn't get scanned at a particular sort facility (or maybe doesn't register on their tracking site, anyway) but shows up rigt on time. For instance, alot of air packages leave here bound for California and some will only show one scan out of here and it being scanned onto the truck within hours of delivery time. Then again... it may just be late...

You can start a Wish List online... Just so you know, you're getting these from me: http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/500/551/551-10001.jpg

Josh, Maybe you can look on the bright side and change your sig to say "Two 300hp 4-Cylinders". Did you get my email?

Josh, that's a simple bolt-on fix... Unbolt your engine, and bolt this in: http://www.worldcastings.com/prods_pages/media/102091.jpg

Turbo Direct Injection

Yeah, I'm sure it's possible. They did it pretty half-assed. I often thought it would be a neat thing to see someone do "right".

I think Car Craft (or Hot Rod, maybe) put a 500 Cad into a Chevette several years ago. As I recall it was a pretty hacked job, but proves you can put any engine into anything with enough "fabrication" (or hacking).

There is some helpful math on that topic here: http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?showtopic=5020&hl=swaybar+rates Scroll down some and they mention how to substitute the figures for solid bar with hollow bar rate.

They were used only in trucks/vans as far as I know. Most commonly big-block F250's and such. The later year the better, as they had made improvements over the years. A company called Bauman makes some "upgrade" internals to the later model spec parts.

Also worth noting, the ventialtion at New Albany is great, and they have very stable target carriers. I am only a few blocks from Blackwing (can hear the shooting in my living room) but I often go to New Albany instead. I don't go to the Powder Room anymore even though it's a bit cheaper mainly because of the terrible ventialtion and junk-ass target carriers. If you are trying to stay close to home, I'd vote for Ohio Valley. It's second on my list of favorite indoor spots. I still don't care for the target carriers much but it's bright, clean and well ventilated.

That's Blackwing Shooter's Supply. Their indoor is pretty decent. I don't like the target carriers as well as the ones at New Albany, but otherwise it's good.

Something else you might want to look at (just occured to me)- Make sure you have all of the proper leads from the power supply plugged in. I have done so many builds previous AMD models that I don't look at diagrams and just immediately tie off all of the P4 leads and various other parts of the power supply harness that I "don't need". On my first Athalon 64 build, after having some similar issues to what you describe, I finally looked at the manual for the MB and discovered there was an aditional plug from the power supply that I had never needed before. It was acting kind of like a dead processor (unresponsive - no beeps) - but b/c it is apparently powered off it's own plug and was not plugged in.

Yeah, If the card is good/connected firmly it should allow you to see the BIOS. When it first boots it is only in VGA mode so it should work until windows starts and it flops over to SVGA.

Yeah, that would be Nathan. He lives over on Long Street. Cocky would be an understatement. He traded the black car in on thie SS. The SS has Headers, most bolt-ons and some basic suspension mods. It had most of a NOS nitrous kit on it for a while, but I don't think he ever got it hooked up/tuned correctly. The "Import Killer" was a basically stock auto with a custom single exhaust. (if that's the same car you saw - which I imagine it was). There might be more done to it now, though.

Also, FWIW. I would have no problem trying you guys out if I needed a shop - based mostly on the fact that I know people that have dealt with your company personally and were satisfied. I don't put near as much stock in bad internet reviews that I read as I do good reviews from people I actually know (not those that I only E-know).

My opinion: I think it's always best to just ignore the "haters" because they are likely just looking to get a rise out of you anyway - and when you open youself up to them, they have nothing better to do than push you until you say something to potentially make yourself look bad to others. I am making no refference to any particular person as I don't usually read the flame wars anyway and wouldn't know details. Look at any big company, especially in a hormone-loaded market such as automotive performance and race parts. Most of those companies will have a voice on the internet in some small way, but you could hire a team of people to work around the clock on the 'net in defense of your business and get nowhere. You're much better off to spend your time touting your companies qualities than to try and defend yourself against the internet whorde. The bigger the company grows, the more you are going to have unhappy customers (even if it's only , say .5% - the more you have the more people that is), no matter how much you try and hope to resolve things, some people are much more into badmouthing businesses over the internet than finding a resolution. I think alot of the time people are too embarassed to ask questions of the people doing the work, because no one wants to say "I don't know" to another guy when it comes to cars. It's pretty easy for that to turn to an E-war because they may not say anything at all to the shop, but will run home and look for someplace to vent about it. Hell, I see all the time where people are posting all about shoddy work and such on the net, but if you read on you'll find that many never said a thing to the shop... they just took it to the internet to whine instead of looking for a solution. Look at any of the thousands of consumer ratings sites. Many are full of negative responses on decent products because people are generally MUCH more likey to seek out such a place to vent about recieving a bad product than to look for a way to express how happy they are with a product. You'll never get away from that kind of person, and try as you might to avoid it, the list will grow with the business. In the end, all you can really do is try to make the unhappy customers into happy ones, and beyond that just let the lost causes go.

I'm thinking a very strong adhesive - maybe an epoxy of sorts if it needs to be a strong bond for a tension application and not just to hold it together?

IIRC, MythBusters did a test on BioDiesel conversions. In their case the mileage was reduced a small amount, so for them the savings was the fact they can get the fuel source for free (or near free) instead of $3/gallon. They used an older diesel Benz for their test, and I am sure results will vary with application. Seems like an interesting concept as long as we can continue to get the fuel for cheap/free - which I assume wil not be forever.

They got the professional video put up today. http://www.teamjegs.com/media/jegs_burnout.wmv