Trouble Maker

What a bunch of fucking morons, what a way to run a good busines and make money.

How you consider thoes two equally flexable when you need a laptop (or someting extra) to tune one at all and the other has some self tuning just baffels me. That's like saying one girl is just as flexable as the other...if the less flexable girl would study yoga for a year. tongue.gif [ 14 November 2002, 10:35 AM: Message edited by: Mad Jack Bonney The Crazy Pirate ]

Yeah, I have this ideal daily driver in my mind I guess. I would like to do an awd dsm, stroked, all lightweight, but strong internals, blah blah, something like a big 16g, fmic. Something that will be very fun to drive, well reving, widepowerband car. A low 12, high 11, nothign insanely fast, just able to beat ANY stock car . Handels like it's on rails, nice stereo, dubs, hehe, j/k on that last one. I just want it to be a very 'fun' to drive car. [ 08 November 2002, 01:27 PM: Message edited by: Mad Jack Bonney The Crazy Pirate ]

sure it does, thats why they make aluminum rods... It just becomes less of an issue with the increased torque that cubic inches bring. Especially when you're only talking about a few grams (a good h-beam steel rod should weight roughly the same as an iron I-beam, or just a tad more). I had Bischoff (tony bischoff/gary rohe) balance my stroker, so I dont know exact values going from a stock 351 rod to a 6.25" H-beam... but since you typically use a shorter piston, you'll gain some weight differential back there.</font> I would think thoes few grams on each rod, rotating fast, would help alot in how well an engine can rev. But besides that do you think the decreased weight of the piston itself would help decrease the sidewall loading. Pressure=Force/Area Force=Mass*Acceleration So Pressur=Mass*Acceleration/Area A smaller piston would be lighter and have less area. If the porportion of the Mass/Area of the pison that hits the sidewall were drcreased it should cause a decrease in sidewall loading. This may not be that important when biulding a street engine, but then again there are some people on here that have engines that are far from 'street' engines. Smaller piston would also mean less rotating mass, and less mass that the combustion process is directly moving. Better reving, more efficient, engine. I think I'm onto something here, but I've never actually biult an engine before. So opinions and criticisms are very welcome?

Making your pistons shorter and your rods longer would decrease the weight of the pisons and increase the weight of the rods. Do you all think this would help to decrease the side load on the piston walls, the pisons being lighter? The only reason that I don't necessairly think this would be true is because of the increased weight of the rods, but the weight is in a different spot. It just isn't intutively clicking, and I really don't feel like doing that much research (on the weights and everything) to make an 'ideal' less than realistic model, nor do I have the time. That would be pretty trick becasue that is one of the concerns when you stroke an engine (increased side wall load). Anyone have any thougts on this? EDIT: a longer rod would increase (or decrease, whichever way you look at it, what's the standard nomenclature? ) the angle too, further decreasing side wall load. Would a smaller (shroter) piston be a weaker piston? [ 07 November 2002, 07:08 PM: Message edited by: Mad Jack Bonney The Crazy Pirate ]

If Mark goes and turns the heat on before hand... tongue.gif And I remmeber how to get to it, I just can't remember the name of the road.

ditto with the dsm.

don't take it to passen.

How about you just list the 4 things you don't have in your garage so people will know what they need to ask the general public for, otherwise they just send you a PM.

hehe, thanks for reminding me. I need to finish that re-wire i started at the begining of the summer! Damn it takes me a while to finish stuff. I didn't get a good ground the first time (don't know why either, it should have been), then I got lazy, imagine that. tongue.gif

If it's really blown then you'll probably blow the 5 speed too, eventually (just my unsubstantiated opinion). So if you are going to do it I would think about geting the 5 speed biult by someone before you put it in, could save you lots of time and headaches later. If I decide to biuld up my red car and swap in a 5 speed that's what I plan on doing (geting the tranny biult before I put it in). EDIT: I don't know much about trannys so I can't help you diagonis your problem, sorry. [ 25 August 2002, 03:03 PM: Message edited by: Mad Jack Bonney The Crazy Pirate ]

I am 19 with a reckless op, 2 FRAs, 1 at fault accident, and 1 speeding ticket. Insurance for both my cars for 6 months is $500 for liability. I can't imagine you being too much worse, but who knows I still think I'm a great driver compared to some smile.gif . BTW, the DTSS is in all 2nd gens, and is really annoying smile.gif .</font> who in the hell do you go through. i am 21 with less than you (i have 2 acidents and 4 tickets, i think, but no fra's or reckless ops, i consider that less) and i pay 40 bucks more than that for liability on one car ever 6 months. n/m, i know why, allstate sucks my balls, thats why, i really need to insurance shop.

Well, I got a coolant tester today, but my impatient dumb ass drove my car to get it (like 1mi. round trip or so). The car is fine, but it's hot now and takes forever to cool down so I can't use the tester yet. At any rate I was sitig here thinking about the situation and I got a little worried. I still see no water Anywere. When I drove it to auto zone didn't see shit. When I came back here and let it idel in my driveway for 4 minutes then backed up and saw nothing. When I first got in my car earlier I reved it up a little and saw a little white smoke that disipated quickly, I was thinking water. I got back home and reved it up to 7krpm and saw nothing either time I reved it. The waterpump (or anything else for that matter) has made no noises yet. When I lose the coolant I get my low coolant light (the sensor is in the overflow), and there is not coolant there, which wouldn't be typical of a bad cap, I wouldn't think. Ok, to get to my point. I'm really worried about it being the head gasket. If it is and I pressureize the coolant system will I get water in the cylinders just siting there and I try to start the car could it be enough to cause water lock (or whatever it's called). And is this why you said check the plugs and oil first, what should I look for in the oil, what will the plugs look like (color wise mostly) if I am geting water in there. Thanks for all of the help.

Good info Brett. Also to add to that, depending on how many miles are on your car, if it's time to change the timing belt then it is also time for a new water pump. Mitsubishi recommends a T-belt service every 60,000 miles and you don't want to wait a mile over that, trust me.</font>Yeah, I still haven't goten around to doing anything about the coolant leak yet. I've been having too much fun with friends and when I have two cars to pick from to drive since my parents are out of town the motivation isn't exactly there either. I was thinking to just get the timing belt/water pump done or do it myself right now, but I don't want to do thoes and have changing the water pump not fix the problem. I guess I don't like to throw parts at cars (I know the timing belt isn't throwing parts at the car, i was refering to the water pump). Very good informative post Renner, thanks.

Sorry Mark, I work Sunday through Thursday second shiftish or I'd be there.

Yeah, that's really what I'm affarid of Mark. But I would think over a gallon dissapearing in about 10 miles and about 15 minutes of driving would show some signs somewhere, I haven't seen anything except for the water dissapearing. Akula, where did you get this done at and how much does it cost?

Ok, I gota a pretty serious coolant leak, but I've never actually seen any leak out anywhere in the engine bay or underneath of the car. It's bad enough that I saw my low coolant light one day, checked my coolant level the next day, sure enough it was low. put about 4 quarts in (~7 quart capacity). I drove it from the westside to the airport and when I got back in my car to go home the light was on again. Put the allmost full gallon of water I had in my car in and it wasn't even close to being full. By the time I was about home I was having to put on the heat so the engine temps wouldn't rise. This lead me to believe I had allmost no coolant left at this point because this is the first time I had seen engine temps rise the whole way there or back. I'm gona check the obvious place of the lines coming in and out of the radiator and the fan temp switch and the radiator drain as I've had these loose/out within the past month and a half. But if it's not any of thoes spots how do I figure out where it is If I see none coming out. Oh yeah, I haven't seen any smoke coming out of the tail pipe so I'm pretty sure it's not my head gasket, thank goodness. Sorry for the long post but I was trying to be as descriptive as possible. Thanks all, later.

Hmmm, Well my car is an auto and I'm debating wether to try to make it so it's decent or just do a conversion to 5 speed in the long run if I do alot to this car. For reference it's a 92 egale talon tsi awd. My reasoning behind wanting to do the swap and why it's economical follows. I'm going to have to biuld both trannys so that's an equal amount of money. With the 5 speed swap I have to buy the tranny and a good clutch/flyhweel, pedal assembley, clutch cable, master cylinder, slave cylinder (i think i got about everything), I'd probably try to find a local car in a junk yard. With the auto though I'd have to buy a nice turque converter if I want to launch good, thoes are expensive. I know that the 5 speed swap will cost a little more, possible alot, but not tons, and take time, but I like shifting alot more. I can get an aftermarket computer for the auto where I can do about anything I want (like probably do some kind of auto stick, that would be kick ass), but they are like $1k. That would put the price of the auto biuld way about the manual build, but alot more expensive. My questions are I've never even been to the track and dont' plan on going that much so I don't much care about the consistent launches thing. When I have the time and money you'll see me at road courses, auto crosses, possible some rallying, and riping around the streets for the majority of the time. Can I make the auto alot more fun to drive, it's kinda blah right now. I've read, and it makes sense, that the torque converter reduces throtel response so to say because the rpms don't follow the throtel response as closely as a 5 speed. Will a bigger converter help or hurt this? What would you all do in this situation (a car swap isn't out of the question, but for thoes of you that have seen my car you will know why I want to keep it, it's in very good condtion inside and out)?

these were infinity reference speakers and from what i understand they are damn good speakers....</font> I had the same ones in my saturn (aka the ratteler, hehe) and I took them out the other day after about a year, I could see the affects of the sun on them, they are discolored in the front and back, back worse, but no damage at all. That's kina weird berto, are you sure there wasn't any other contributing factors here. Any mositure get into your trunk. Do you run them off of the head unit's power (junk power), when they distort it causes the cone to deflect in bad ways. I know this second one is kinda far fetched but I can't help but think stuff like this as I've read books about how speakers work, yeah, I know, I'm a dork.

I fucking hate machine code, please stop talking about it.

I'd like to see it too actually if you don't mind, I could see an FD at some point in my future...read very far into my future, gona get this dsm worked out, a bike, probably a g-body (I miss my monte carlo), golf gti, an FD is somewhere on my list though. Supras and 3000gt's are just too damn big for me. I really like thoes cars.

i live by the best thing for any car is a turbo. although it may be easier to super them. Just do a non-vtec head swap or get vtec killer cams, either will not be cheap, but the cams will be easy(er). I'm not vtec expert though, I'm sure there is a way to do a vtec and a turbo safely, efficiently and do it streetable , go do some research. You absoutley will have massive traction problems, esp. on stock suspension and tires.

Yeah, I've heard that too from someone I used to go to school with, since transfered to another school, he knows people who have worked there and he said it happens. Regardless if it happens there or not never give audio shops or shops of that business your number, it can happen anywhere and it often happens in that type of business. So the moral of the story is don't give stere shops your adress ummmmka' (hehe, I'm glad I know how to build a square box and put speakers in and connect wires or else I might be fucked and have to go to a stereo shop).

Yeah, it's called helper springs, my uncle is going to do that to his f250 so he can haul some unholly amount of weight. Call up a suspension place such as Bee Line and ask them, I'm sure somewhere like that will be able to help you out.

If you have it in the TT it's possible your going to need to replace gears every 100 miles or get a stronger trany biult for it. tongue.gif