Trouble Maker

APC and Passen

Hehe, your funny doug. I have no $.02 Good thing I own a Disposiable Speed Machine... If someone fucks my car up, I can just throw it away and not care. *cough*Kyel should have bought a dsm*cough* Wana borrow my afc? Wait, I don't have an afc, just though I'd try to follow the original point of this thread, didn't work. redface.gif

Worst.comeback.ever

Might want to edit that for the sake of the company and pm him the name of the place... unless they do it 'legit' and make you sign stuff saying you won't drive it on the street, if that's even legal.

Just because your puting the break down doesn't mean it is senesing that your puting the break down/ the signal is geting there. I'd check that first.

2 10ohm resistors in parallel will look like a 5 ohm load. If you put 2 resistors in series they both have the same current going through them, but only a portion of the voltage drops across each resistor. In the case of 2 resistors with the same value half of the voltage will drop across each resistor, but all of the current will still go through both. Making half the power disapate across each resistor. If you put 2 resistors in parallel they will have the same voltage drop across each one. But only a portion of the current will flow through each resistor. In the case of 2 resistors with the same value, half of the current will flow through each of the resistors, but like was stated before, all of the voltage will drop across each resistor. Making half the power disapate across each resistor. Think of it like a river (or any other sort of moving liquid). Voltage is the total volume and current is the flow rate. We had a problem with our senior desing project where we could not get an inductor of the value we needed that had a high enough current rating. We just put 2 in parallel, then you put 2 sets of parallel in series. Or you could put 2 in series, then you put 2 sets of seriesed elements in parallel with each other. Mind you, inductors add up like resistors, capacitors do just the oppisite (they add up in paralle like resistors do in series, and vice versa). But you still get the same thing happening when you connect them like this. You end up having the original value of the elements as your total value for the gangel of elements. I don't see you needing to do this though, you should be able to find something on mouser or the like to suite your application.

Are you looking for a 10ohm or 20ohm resistance all together. Because if you wire 2 10 ohm resistors in series it will look like 20 ohms, if you didn't allready know that.

Mind you, he said it's a buddy of his... so this guys spincter valve may be a bit biger than average.

You need to learn alot more about cars and bolt on's and power adders before you jump into this. It'll save you money, make you more power, and save alot of headaches in the long run. Go read around the internet, read some books or mag's. Good luck. Oh, and personal opinion, your starting with the wrong car, don't take it personal. Being 'original' with your car is very over-rated when you think about how much economical sense it makes. Just making a little assumption here, but you probably don't have that kind of money to just throw away compared to a different car that you could make faster for way cheaper. There are people on here that have that kind of money, so I could be wrong. But the people that have that kind of money don't start out with slow, non-perfomance oriented, small after market cars either.

Thanks, that's really close to my house so I pass by there all the time. Which way on 270? If it's south (outside lanes) he's a retard becuase there's allways traffic there, usually to much to speed alot anyways. North (inside part of 270) makes more sense, it's pretty free flowing that way and plenty of space to speed (I know, it was basicly clear in the middle of the day once and I got my saturn up to xxx there).

I've been meaning to post this one, but I haven't been out that way and seen a cop in a while... but I used to work at the airport last summer and they sat in that same exact spot. I'd see them at least once a week, if not more. You can't see them until you are close enough for them to gun you, esp. going west. Be careful in that area.

Not just any normal old stickers. Factory stickers used as badging on the side and back of dsm's. I used bug/tar remover and goo gone for like 20 minutes and picked at one with my finger nails until some of the shit got under my finger, hurt like hell. I don't even wana post a picutre showing how far I got, you'd all laugh. Well I really want to remove thoes things and thought I'd get some opinions on here as to how to do this.

What about if your car is a hatchback? Or if your interior is striped?

A match.

This is hachi roku...just in Jesse's room...but it has the 4a-ge in it...i know a few things about it...i dont know anything bout it running in water though...so i dont know ill try those things out....and yeah the water in the exhaust thing sounds like its totally possible...so ill do my best to work on that...thanks again for the help guys i really appreciate it

Whoops, I think I had just posted in the pic's section, then though I was in the tech section, brain fart. Cool, thanks Mark. I thought there was something like that you could do, I'll have to say something to him. He wasn't so much as complaining about it as he was stating how the paint on vechiles overseas is so much better than ours (probably fit and finish overall too). I know when the vechiles going to Japan come across the factory lines at Honda over in Marysville the line foremans walk along with the car making sure everthing is done perfect. On a side note I've seen the worst orange peel I've ever seen on an M5 siting in MAG's show room, pretty sad.

I remember in the thread about Kennys paint (yeah that one), someone was saying something about it hasn't been buffed out yet. My dad just got a new car and the paint is slightly orange peeled (the little indentations). You have to look pretty hard at an angle to see it, don't notice it straight on at all. The clear coat looks really good, overall a very good factory paint job, I think. I was wondering if there's anything you can (are supposed) to do to new paint jobs, wether factory or from a paint shop, to make them look better/ last longer (other than the obvious of waxing, washing, etc.)?

Yeah, but Jono's gay so he doesn't count...

I guess I'm just trying to make sure it's worth the extra money, even the other two tires are ~$100 a piece. I wish I could wait a few months (and knew I had a job), geting out of school.... but I've needd tires, I allready waited through the winter so I could get 'summer tires', I need to get some real soon.

Well, didn't the vibration start when you got rear-ended? Maybe the stress from the impact somehow sheared off two of the bolts and the rest vibrated lose from the increased vibration and uneven force now being applied (from other bolts being missing).

Ok, I've seen the Yokohama ES100, Bridgestone Potenza S03's, Kumho ECSTA Supra 712 and Dunlop SP9000's recomended so far by more than 1 person... But thoes range anywhere from $135 S03's) to $67 (712's) a piece for my car, kinda hard to compare. I need to get new tires soon also, don't have tons of money, but am willing to save up a bit to get tires if they are worth it. I need an all around (dry and wet) warm weather tire (pretty much anything but winter conditions). I'd like a tire that is more geared towards cornering as opposed to straigt line accel (if the comprimse must be made). What, of these four (or anything else anyone has good things to say about) would some of you recomend?

But this is a good thread. DSM's run low impedance, some people get 550's (something like that) out of TII's for our cars and take out the resistor pack out I belive is how the story goes. Just read that some TII's run low impedance injectors too, 550's go woo woo. The trick is to figure out what impedance your old injectors are, and what your new ones are. That'll give you a rough est. of what impedance the resistors in the resistor pack need to be. It sounds like the just put a high power resistor in series with your injector. Puting injectors in series simply adds them together. So if your old injectors were 13ohms and your new ones were 3 ohms, you'd need a 10 ohm resistor pack (10+3=13 http://216.40.249.192/s/contrib/blackeye/small3dblackeye.gif ). My guess is that guy found a way to make the honda ones work somehow (wether it's just a direct connection or not is another story) if you put resistors in parallel they combine in a totally different way. ___1_______1______1 -------- = ----- + ----- +... _Rtotal_____R1_____R2 That's how resistors in parallel add (hope that makes sense, pay no attention to the ___ lines, only did that cuse just spaces doesn't work...) Rtotal=R1+R2+... That's how resistors in series add [ 10. March 2003, 06:50 PM: Message edited by: My name... is Neo ]

Hehe, yeah, like I said. It was prob. on the tech. supra boards that aem was taking this action before they even had a website up about it is my bet. Better safe than sorry though since it seems like a serious concern.

I don't think anyone on here has one, but figured I'd let one of you all pass this on. This is probably on the Supra boards allready, but if it's not, please put it there. Just happened to be looking at the aem ems site and saw this. Flaw that lets the fuel pump run when key is in the on position but car is off, like in a reck. http://www.aempower.com/important.htm

It's car week on Tech TV and they had some tuner on there talking about electronics for cars. Started out with the piggy back stuff, showed an mr2 with hks vpc, some ebc, and an safc. Then they went to the stand alones. Of course the apexi was first, because, well, plug and play kick ass for an aftermarket ecu. Then he showed some other units. He had a Tec3 showing 'what is to come'. He said that it can switch FULL maps on the fly! Wow, does anyone else think this is as cool as I do? Have one set of maps with low boost optimized for fuel economy for crusing. Another for a higher boost racing on the road with pump gas. Another for maximum boost at the track with race gas. I looked on their website and it says nothing about this though.