Trouble Maker

I've heard lots more bad than good about passen. Friends with horror stories, but we won't let peoples cars geting messed up and passen not doing anything about it ruin their image. No, lets just forget about peoples cars they have fucked up and charged them for and not done anything to try to fix the situation. I think you just convinced me that I should trust passen with my car. If I ever need anything done I won't go to Brian or Buscher or Can't remember the other big DSM people up north (bad memory sometimes). I'm gona go to passen. Yeah, it only takes me hearing one legit story of someone taking their car to a shop, paying good money to get serious work done, the shop messing it up, then not doing anything to try to fix the situation. I don't know about you, but I care about my hard earned mone, and especially my car too much to put either into hands I don't trust. To bad I've heard quite a few legit horror stories about passen, their quality of work, and their business tactics to EVER think about going there for anything. Even if it's just vacume lines I willl NEVER buy anything from that store.

It sounds like you got this car out of necesity so it's not like your all about moding this patricular car. Honestly I'd say just have fun with the car as it sits and use what little money you have right now to have fun while your in college *cough*beer*cough*. Maybe get a job over the summer and pick up something more mod worthy. Exactly what I did this past summer. I saved up enough money for car payments, insurance and books for the whole year. I did have a job that paid well though. Now my work study money is all spending money *cough*beer*cough*. Partly out of needing a new car, but I could have goten something cheaper to last me my last year in college, but I didn't see the point in it. You'll be out in no time at all and have at least a decent paying job, get a real fast car then. I haven't done much of any (more) moding to it yet because I spend my money on other things, like going out with my friends... and beer. Spring break is what my tax return is going to, not the car. Panama beach here we come, they so aren't ready for us (I don't think I'm ready for us either). I'm gona post before we go so if I don't post a week after that you all can start worrying about me. tongue.gif

I think the aeromotive is just a regular fpr (1:1 rise rate) if I remember right. You geting a new fpr for your impulse or are you trying to turbo something that's non-turbo stock? Details are your friend Jono. tongue.gif

Where's Arron at when you need him?

Werd.

That'd be about right, if it wasn't 95 degrees and humid out the day he pulled that with no fuel.

It's cool, I've got a really good memory. It's not like I've been around much latley anyways because I'm up at school. I was the one (other than rigsby) helping brian and his dad that day, red 1g dsm, you gave me a ride out at marcus too when thoes high school chicks wanted a ride, Jesse.

Lol, you blew a seal toooo, just not the apex one. tongue.gif How's that car doing, did you find out it was that seal that commonly goes bad, the coolant one? and are you rebuilding that engine over the winter?

15psi on that setup with fuel will be wayyyy more than 300whp. Dacks, what did you hit that one really hot day out at speeds, couldn't remember?

Got about 5 hours on your hands?? hour and a half drive from columbus.

I went out there with just my car after we hit up hardees and that's how the radiator broke (nope, didn't even bump anything, pos plastic end caps, i'm buying an aluminium one). At one point I had snow spining off of my front drivers side tire so much that it covered my whole windshield!! that parking lot owned. I looked at my back right rim and my rims are of a very open design, spokes, i had solid snow over the first few inches of where they are supposed to be hollow (from pushing the car sideways through the snow). So yeah, I could see how he could have goten tons of snow everywhere under his car. Oh, it was at least 4 inches, probably more.

You drive a turboed car, you should know the advantages of forced induction over n/a, what kinda chebba have you been smoking, seriously? And if you know what your doing, it isn't that hard, or needs that many extra parts to make hondas work well with boost from what I've seen. A few one way valves, rrfmu, fuel pump and afpr along with of course turbo, pipes, vacume lines, and oil lines, and ic if you chose. You could throw an safc in there for good measure too.

I had a headache earlier today that I took some asprin for. Thoes took care of it, but you just made it come back, thanks. [ 31 December 2002, 12:02 PM: Message edited by: The Strawberry Shortcake ]

Probably cause was changed for cars and the like. The law used to be that they had to have a warrant to search anything, or probable cause (such as seeing anything illegal). But a car for instance is easily moveable, do you see the problem. They only suspect something wrong but can't do anything about it without waiting for a warrant, at which time the car is in the next state (or country). So they changed the law for cars so they don't need probable cause. In theory it sounds like a good idea, and it really is, if used correctly. But like anything that gives a cop more freedom and power to serve and protect use better, it can be abused to harras and annoy us. Cops are just human, and there are good cops, bad cops and horrible cops. I'd be pist if i had to deal with a bad cop, but I guess in retrospect, at least I haven't had to deal with any horrible cops (aka dirty cops) in my life yet.

Man Smokin Hawk, thanks for posting thoes. You were making me think you turboed an ls1 to make 380hp, I was getin really confused and concerned for you. tongue.gif

well, with this being the infamous Buick TypeR i'd say go with hood pins.

Duurrrrr. Um, somewhere underneath all of that crap. Seriously though. Probably straight underneath your intake mani in the back on the bottom side of the engine. If you don't know where your starter (not just know where it's at on your car, they all look the same and shouldn't be hard to find on most any engine) is you should go pick up a Chiltions (or something similar) from an auto parts store, or go to a library and look at one. Clicking eh? Is it coming from your ecu? Never heard of starters clicking when they go bad (but I suppose the engagement soleniod could go bad and make some weird noises). Sounds like your battery might be dying on ya. Go to Autozone or something to that effect and tell them you think your battery is going bad and they will take this big rolley thing out to your car and test it for you. I'm assuming it's just recently done this and it's geting worse. My car did the same thing, one cell just started to go bad and it got harder and harder to start. People are correct in saying your geting too much air at idel from something being wrong. My car just started doing the same thing and around the DSM community it's commonly called idel surge. The recomended steps for us is cleaning the TB (to much gunk on TB plate can cause it to slightly stick open). Checking our BIS (base idel set) screw. Checking something on the TB that lets warm more air through till the engine is warmed up (to let the engine idel higher when cold and warm up quicker, if it gets stuck open it will make the car idel high when it's not supposed to). And finally the dreaded ISC (idel step controler), cuse it cost the most. I woudn't think it'd be a vacume leak from a vacume line cuse this would cause other problems (with whatever the line was connected to) and would probably just cause the car to run like shit (becuase it wouldn't pull enough vacume at idel) and idel low, not high. Can someone back me up on this? I'd also go post on a good Honda board before tearing anything up. I know there is one damnit! (I've heard good stuff about hondatech or something liek that). EDIT: Kick bad... I've heard taping it with a hammer or a big rench can do the trick (well, temproarly). [ 24 December 2002, 11:58 PM: Message edited by: The Strawberry Shortcake ]

will the good ol' removing fuse/power trick work or do obdII equiped cars have non-volitale memory?

Yeah, but how much does a supercharger cost compared to him geting a set of gt-40p's or e7's heads from a junkyard and having his buddy port them along with puting a cam and 1.7 roller rockers into them?

I've got a friend (yeah, he's an idiot, but a crazy sun of a bitch that would kill someone for me if need be) that acidentally put alot (4 gallons) of kerosene in his car on an empty tank.

retard mode, i thought the 'other' engine was turboed stock, it's supercharged stock. I personally don't like superchargers (esp. non-centerifugal ones), harder to do stuff to (like any type of intercooler), rob more power from you. plus good luck finding a supercharger upgrade to get you to 350 at the wheels. it's much easier to find a turbo to do that (hell, you could probably do some calcs and have half a dozen different varaients to choes from). I like the idea of puting down less power and doing other mods (weight reduction, suspension, tires). Not necesairly less power, but find out how much people turboing your engine are puting down safely with a minimal setup (everything you need to turbo it, fuel pump, rrfpr), nothign to drastic. Go for what you know will not break driveline shit (tranny/rearend). You might not be able to get around an eventual tranny rebuild though (don't know how your driveline stacks up?) Another retard mode, clutch, duh. Thanks Mark. We should talk sometime, I've got a few good books that you could borrow too. Wana come over and play drinking Rouldph tonight (8pm)?

Yeah, the electronic valve actuators are going to be fucking sweet. You could tune your cam profile so to say. No need for a throtel body. Neat stuff.

How are the internals and tranny and drivelines on the non-turbo compared to the turbo?? Sometims (al la sr20 style) the internals are the same, do some research on that. If you can put down 350 and put a turbo kit on it yourself, I would go that route for numerouse reasons. Obviously if your engine can't handel that much in stock for then you will need to buy the stock turboed engine. These are the reasons I would stick with your engine, if you can. You probably can't put down 350 on the stock turbo with the stock turbocharged engine, so regardless you'll need to buy a turbo. As well as you'll need to upgrade your your fuel system, probably have some form of tuning (at least a rrfpr/fuel pump/injectors, maybe an safc or something like that) all of which you would need to buy, except for the rrfpr (with that kind of power you might need to replace the stock fpr on the turboed engine, which is probably a 1:1), if you bought the turbo charged engine. I guess my point is that to put down 350 on the turboed engine you will need to buy more stuff that just the engine, probably allmost as much stuff as you would buy to turbo your engine, and you'll learn alot more turboing your own engine. Why I think twin charging is stupid; it's very hard to do for one, not many people have done it (how many peoople have turboed your engine/moded the turobed one, lots of info out there on it), it's expensive, not worth the money at all. You'll get a little extra perfomance on the low end, but hell, if your trying to push that kind of power you won't need a huge turbo that has alot of lag. My turbo is good for that much and I get full bost (only set to 10psi right now) by 2500rpm. If you size the turbo proper to your application and 'design' everything right and do your homework, steal from peoples experinces with turboing your engine/moding the stock turboed (just depends on which route is more fesiable), you'll have minimal turbo spool up time. Hell, that little 4 banger revs to what, and you'll have full bost by 3k, reve it to 7k, shift, you're defintely not below 3k again. And you won't be launching at idel either, so that will put you closer to full boost. Turbo spool up time is so fucking over-rated.

I have an alpine cd player connected via one set of rca's to an audio control eqx 13 band eq, that goes into a xtant 4 channel amp where I have a set of components, and a single sub. I do have two 6x9's in the back powered off the headunit, but they are only there after numerous complaints about too much bass (from people in the back seat) which took me over 2 years to actually get around to. So I guess I would just be bypassing them, who cares about people in my back seat anyway Another possiblity a friend of mine thought of way to hook up another cigarette lighter hardwired into the body and see if that gets rid of the noise. <- I just might try it.</font> Yeah, I guess you could just go into the eq. Are you sure there isn't some 20-30 dollar thing you can buy to turn your cd changer input into an aux, i know tons of radios have this option. I think i specifically remember apline being one of them. That's what I would do. Finding a good ground where you think one should be can be, well, weird. I found this out when doing my fuel pump re-wire. Someone else said something about 10ga straight to through the firewall to the ground point the batter uses. Sounds like more work then just geting the adapter and possible the ground loop isolator. Oh yeah, sounds like a nice setup. smile.gif [ 11 December 2002, 02:07 PM: Message edited by: The Strawberry Shortcake ]

Ground noise, this can be very trick in cars, very very tricky (but you allready knew this right). There is the 15 buck fix red tiger was talking about, but it goes in line with your rca's, and you aren't using thoes. I'm affarid you should use rcas, why put an mp3 player through an rf modulator (shit) if you allready have a decent setup? If you can do this I would do it. My guess is the ground hum will still be there, but you'll be runing through rca's and you can take care of that easily. I guess I might need to know more about your system to conjur up some thoughts, I have no idea how fesiable hooking it up this way is?