Trouble Maker

When I bought my Saturn the ABS didn't work and never did, lots of stuff wrong with it, wasn't worth trying to fix it. I would think anyone designing ABS into a car would realize it's a very complicated system that will, more than likely, fail at some point to some extent. They would want to make it so your regular brakes still work if your ABS went out all together, huge liability there. I'm surprised your brake light coming on because of your ABS didn't kill the system. Bad design ihmo. You can obviously see how it adversely affected your braking.

Not sure what the problem is but speaker polarity will not matter. Bridging an amp puts the amplifiers in series in turn making them 'see' half the impedance of the sub. Meaning if he had a 4ohm sub the amp. will 'see' this as a 2ohm sub. I would think that his amp can do 2ohm's fine but don't know about that specific amp. At any rate if it tried it would maybe power for a while then go into thermal shut down, which it doesn't sound like it's doing. I'd try to find someone with a known spare sub and amp lying around and eliminate those as the problem (well make double check the wiring first, but I'm sure you've already done that). I have an amp and sub that aren't installed in anything I could come over with, but they were used and I never hooked them up. I'm sure they work, just not 110% sure. Hit me up on AIM if you haven't taken care of this already.

Are there usually a few open ones, and some only have power on the ignition and others are constant on (I was under the impression that all the empty ones were usually constant power)? Still doesn't explain why he's only drawing such a small extra amount of current, probably <.5amps to power the coil, but now blowing fuses. So why is he now burning up the fuse? I doubt that any car designer would put a 3.75amp fuse in the box for running lights, dash lights, etc. circuit that draws 3.25 amps. I would think this would be true unless he has also 'upgraded' elsewhere in the circuit so that it draws more current.

From the looks of it he's only powering the coil for the relay with his parking light circuit. I don't see how parking lights alone would be fine on a circuit and parking lights+coil is going to blow the fuse for that circuit? Pluging it into something that is on while your ing. is on would be nice though (like the ACC for your radio, is that red, been a while). That way you can have it on whenever, as long as the ing. is on (or to acc), but will turn off when you take the key out if you forget to turn the switch off. Now you can only turn your fogs when your parking lights are on correct?

Sister bought a car (parents bought it for her actually) and the guy who sold it to them had the car detailed, put the mats pack in, put plastic mats back on them, shit molded. My mom talked to someone who said there's probably carpet, then pading, then some liners that are made out of cardboard. That something similar happened to them and they took it all out, cleaned everything and got new cardboard thingeys and it was fine. Anyone (maybe body shop guys), know if a 98 Mitsu. Galant has anything like this I would need to get and could hook a brotha up? Riping this carpet out is going to be a pain in the ass consider it shouldn't need to be done. Makes me want to pimp smack the guy they bought it from. He masked the smell pretty well when they bought it, and told them as they were walking out to the car about what he did. Have allready tried to get it steam claned, smell showed back up as soon as the odor masking perfuem went away.

Because he is very gay

Don't they add 30HP? ~finds out no, goes in a corner and cries~

Just a few bolts, should take you about a few hours.... waits for hallarious story.

Good luck on that one. tongue.gif I was just trying to state, in a not so nice way, that saying it was the alternator was a huge jump in logic. There's almost nothing that irritates me more about working on car than throwing parts at a problem and not taking a logical approach, like you suggested. I think it was a baby armadillo.

As with almost every new techonolgy the initial price tag will be very high and only avaliable in small amounts or in higher end offerings. As time progresses, the initial investement is recouped, and ways are found to make this techonolgy less expensive to produce, the price will begin to drop. More people will buy it and it will be used in more applications, droping the price even more. While $22k seems like alot, how much were the first CD burners, how much were the first plasma TVs (even though I stand by the fact the current ones are still crap, especially for the money), thoes are just easy examples that most of us can probably remember. I wonder how much the first fuel injection system cost. smile.gif Desparado, while the idea is what will make them the money, the controls behind this is what makes it beautiful. Being able to interpert the feedback you get from the system into useable information is the tricky part, not making the ingition system itself. Although even without the feed back you should still be able to retard timing due to the intensity of the spark (which makes the flame front move much quicker).

Cliff's notes. Provides feed back that can be directly related to cylinder pressure and therefore can be interpreted into knock and misfire detection. All via the spark plug which means bye-bye crappy knock sensors that can pick up other noises. This also means that those parameters can be sensed, and therefore ignition and fuel trimmed on each individual cylinder to correct for any problems, all non-intrusively. The spark is also very high energy, and very quick, ignites the mixture much quicker, leading to more ignition retard. http://www.ccs.neu.edu/home/pbriggs/SmartFireP01.jpg http://www.ccs.neu.edu/home/pbriggs/SmartFireP02.jpg http://www.ccs.neu.edu/home/pbriggs/SmartFireP03.jpg http://www.ccs.neu.edu/home/pbriggs/SmartFireP04.jpg http://www.ccs.neu.edu/home/pbriggs/SmartFireP05.jpg

vibrator

Welcome to the real world. Lesson number one: don't speak about something which you are absoutley clueless. Come back tommrow and I'll teach you something else.

I hope to god he doesn't drive that thing on the street. tongue.gif *it's for his MGA.

http://www.onlineconversion.com/ Cool site.

You're so much more creative than I am. I like the idea though, we should run with this.

Now you're actually getting funny. graemlins/nutkick.gif Trust me, I was thinking about the 'extra' features I'd build into a unit such as this, and trust me, you don't want me building and selling anything like this. One of my better thoughts last night was this. VTEC 'kicks' in and the unit has a speaker. Me making a really bad impression of someone with a JDM Accent®. "VTEC just kicked in YO! HOLD ON!" I was also thinking since the cheapest place to get parts and assemble things is over in china that it's close enough to Japan so I could label it as JDM ... yo. Or maybe I could make a new market and call it CDM®. VANOS>VTEC UBB superscript doesn't work and I don't know HTML... that= graemlins/gay.gif

If I owned a car that had vtec (yo) I'd make one, but since I don't, there's no need. Hell, I would probably have 3 bucks in parts in something like that and could sell it to ricers at a barging basement price of 100 bucks. How's that for a tongue.gif

Yeah, becuase I was talking about making just a button.

You need to off load that piece of shit.

I don't know how much the air/fule part will help you right now or how the vtec controler is compared to others (although I don't see how any of them can be much different as long as they work). It was just a thought that poped into my mind, it just seems like upwards of 150 is alot to pay for something like that. The electronics of the idea seem like the should be Very simple. Hopefully some honda guys that have used both will chime in soon.

Would the V-SAFC serve you a little better now and much better in the long run?

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