hpfiend

I personally would not go to the hassle of changing a camshaft to put a used grind in- you can get a trickflow stage 1 (221/225 @ 0.50 .498/.510) for like 150.00 if I remember correctly which will make a nice lopey idle and the accompanying light surging and lack of power below 3000- above 3000 hang on. I would go with 1.7 rockers and a stock cam if I were you as a first step.

sounds good- park street it is- THANKS!

thanks scion girl- will check it out- I've never been but from what I have heard it seems too trendy for me though, more interested in music/seating/parking/cold draft beer than hooking up anymore as I am married. never heard of park street does it have acoustic? I guess the dream place I am thinking of is away from downtown in a suburb, nice parking, not too crowded, nice cold domestic draft beer. Youngest people are late twentys or early 30s. Basically a place a single 18-22 year old would hate.

Of the ones you mentioned I like SICK 67 Two I have thought of if I ever changed my mind on my current ones... LKS CN DCV or just LKS DCVE TRY ME I do like WIDO MKR and one that just occurred to me that would probably get censored... BND OVR hehe

http://www.corral.net http://www.buckeyestangs.com

Sorry to hear your pain- I did a similar thing in my '96 LT1 Formula- standing rain, hydroplaning rear end, attempt to correct, spin, hit wall, total loss. I didn't ask about the buy back but wish I did- I stripped all the aftermarket parts off of it in the gas station I hobbled to though and sold them for almost what I paid on eBay. I was extremely bummed/depressed for quite a while... Glad you are ok... Now start looking for a replacement-- Don't go for less than a v8 you will miss it. I tried to be practical and ended up giving the brand new 04 RSX type S to my wife that I had bought as a replacement and driving her '95 240 SX until I could sell it for a fox body. Good luck!

Hey all, Does anyone know of a place that plays acoustic music on Friday nights? Good acoustic music any night? Thanks! Andrew

Not to rain on your parade but on paper I agree it sounds bad ass but having performed an engine swap myself before, the realities I would presume are much less pleasant. What about buying one already done, letting the previous innovator take the huge hit in depreciation and not being able to recover what he has in it and then make it yours. if it is a mild chevy v8 swap it for an lsx, if another motor add a turbo, etc. Does a 240 Z really handle that well? Are you good at body work/rust repair? willing to drive to Nevada or Arizona for a rust free shell? I know it has been surmised that 240z transaxle can withstand the torque of a v8 but are we talking a 283 v8 that doesnt put 200 to the wheels or a monster lsx that puts 500 to the wheels... I would plan on t-bird 8.8 IRS swap down the road I find it hard to believe that a car that was built to be lightweight that they would overdesign the drivetrain that much. If you get that done and driving like that car in the picture for 5500.00 I would be thoroughly speechless and impressed. That car has that much alone probably more in just the paint and wheel/tires- If you go lsx or whatever the other engine was or comes from, I would without a doubt ditch the fuel injection and go carburetted- so much easier and inexpensive. And if you decide you absolutely need fuel injection you can add it back on AFTER you have a running car and see if it is worth the hassle. We put a fuel injected 4.3L Vortec V6 in a 1977 Porsche 924 and it was unbelievable what we got into. It only made 235 hp at the engine, and without any sort of limited slip it was worthless- if it had hooked I am sure it would have twisted the wimpy subframe and halfshafts and transaxle/torque tube like a pretzel. If you want something that looks sharp and handles/performs fantastic what about a used 944 turbo and boost it up? reliability is another story- used to work in a porsche/bmw/vw/mercedes garage. All that said buddy- if you decide to go with it I will gladly help ;-)

I can't believe the list isn't longer either. If you really think about it what's the point of spending thousands of dollars on your car to put it on a dyno and tell everyone how you can walk them because your number is higher than theirs but you have no intention of ever actually running your car in a legitimate race with lights and timing equipment and a finish line... do you know how much horsepower it takes to overcome a jump in a non-legitimate race with horn honks or whatever... I would even go as far as to wager that a lot of these supposed 400+ rwhp cars that people claim they have on this list do not even exist. All internet message board/mailing list car enthusiast groups are the same... all year everyone talks smack and has signatures that claim they have run low 12s or 11s and then when you go to the annual event, the ones that actually show up end up running high 13s and high 14s. Its interesting how 200 rear wheel horsepower grows in the internet world. And not to crap in anyone's internet easter basket but 13s and 14s are actually fast- anyone who has taken a trip in a car that can perform as such down the quarter mile will tell you it was a thrill. I only go to annual events as I am too busy to go nights and weekends so my driving experience reflects in my ET. Dyno talks, ET walks. Don't let your ego be run by your rear wheels. C'mon guys come on out and walk all over me- I challenge you. Kohones- hats off man- btw lets run our cars- my next car is definitely an 02-04 z06

Does ralph maltby still run his steeda stang in the OVR? Back in my teens I participated in one of those events and that car was unreal. Also- even if there is noone else in SM- with my wife driving as well at least we can compete against each other.... mentioned it to her last night- we will see ;-) BTW didn't see it on the website- perhaps overlooked it- what time does the event start on sunday?

Been kicking the idea around of brining the wife out to the 9/2/07 event and both of us running my stang... any idea what class I would run in? Modified? I couldn't snake into ESP could I? I have a 90 Coupe LX Mustang 5.0 5 spd with heads, cam, intake, supercharger, 3.73s, and basically a stock suspension but for 245/50/16 BFgoodrich KDWS tires (for now ;-) ) Thanks! Andrew

Did you read the link? He sells brass gears to replace the crappy plastic ones. Or you already bought a cnc metal gear and stripped that out??????

scan it first!!!!! especially if it throwing a code with a light- get a paperclip and jump the terminals and count flashes or use the voltmeter same thing- I thought you had already scanned it.... Unless you have an itch to gamble guessing gets quite frustrating and expensive quickly. EECIV is your friend.

After flipping once you need to get the brass gear from brent franker from the old school f-body club... google him Ithink it is like bfranker z28 or something like that. hang on....There found it http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/headlightfix/index.htm Knew my f-body days would be useful again-- miss that old bird.

why the change?

It is not awful but if a guy did it in 1 hour from the car on the ground and back to the ground the first time I would be quite impressed. you are correct, the second time I dropped the tank for the inline pump it went much easier- but getting that fill tube out of there the first time until you see which way to leverage it/move it is a B#@R%, also after adding never seize to those strap bolts or just breaking them loose the first time you did it makes it a hell of a lot easier to remove as well ;-) Laters, Andrew

Did you check the pressure? I wouldn't replace the pump unless I knew it was low on pressure... should have 39.5 psi with the vacuum line off the regulator and plugged once you get it running.

are you being sarcastic? 1 hour? I wouldn't say it is as tough as an f-body but you still have to take your tailpipes loose, disconnect the fuel lines with the proper tool, drop the tank without messing up your fill tube, get the pump out, wire/crimp/solder the new one and get it back in there in the proper orientation, then put the tank back up centered with the two straps and get the fill tube back in the side with your fourth arm. You need balance, a floor jack and some upper body strength.

Yeah- autozone in westerville scanned mine for me before I got my scan tool... ask about the TFI while you are there. Also- you say sometimes you turn the key and hear it prime and other times you do not? Have you messed with your seats lately, had it rained on with the windows down? Could be a fuel pump relay... Have someone turn the key to on not crank while you sit back by the tank and make sure it primes every time- you should hear a whirr even with a stock pump... mine is about deafening now with my 255 inline and 255 in tank.

Take it to advance auto or autozone and have them run the codes if you don't know how... I got a scan tool from jc whitney for like 18.00 that works sweet. They will also test your TFI module for you for free which is my guess... its on the side of your distributor.

What age group is this for? Indoor obviously? Where at sports site or soccer first? is this going down or not?

Rob @ LaSota or Mike @ Dynotune.

Not sure what gears you have in the back but it is common knowledge that adding 3.73 or higher numerical gears to a manual fox body causes a horrid driveline vibration above 85 mph. Aluminum driveshaft is the only fix. FWIW fox guys can put a driveshaft from an awd aerostar in it. Not sure about your v6 car but worth researching.

Found this by accident and couldn't stop reading it- particularly can relate to the vise grips when welding and floor jack. Tool Identification Guide HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a divining rod to locate expensive parts not far from the object we are trying to hit. MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on boxes containing tonneaus, soft tops, and leather upholstery kits. HAND ELECTRIC DRILL: Normally used for spinning steel Pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age, but it also works great for drilling mounting holes in fenders just above the brake line that goes to the rear wheel. PLIERS: An adjustable tool used to round off bolt heads. CRESCENT WRENCH: See PLIERS HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes. AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw. VISE-GRIPS: Used to round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to rapidly transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your garage on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside a brake drum you're trying to get the bearing race out of. WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older British cars and motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or 1/2 socket you've been searching for the last 15 minutes. DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, splattering it against that freshly painted part you were drying. WIRE BRUSH WHEEL: Cleans rust off old bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprint whorls and hard-earned guitar string calluses in about the time it takes you to say, "Ouch...." HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: A device used for raising a vehicle off of the ground. When RAISING - The first stopping point will ALWAYS be 1/2 inch below the top of the Jack Stand. When LOWERING - The stopping point of the Jack will ALWAYS be 1/2 inch above the height needed to remove the Jack. EIGHT-FOOT LONG DOUGLAS FIR 2X4: Used as a long lever with crushable ends. TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters caused by the above. PHONE: Tool for calling your neighbor to see if he has another hydraulic floor jack. GASKET SCRAPER: Theoretically useful as a sandwich tool for spreading mayonnaise or peanut butter. Used mainly for getting dog-doo off your boot. PUTTY KNIFE: A shorter and wider version of a GASKET SCRAPER (above). Who the heck uses putty anymore anyway ? E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool that snaps off in bolt holes and is ten times harder than any known center punch or drill bit. TIMING LIGHT: A stroboscopic instrument for illuminating the grease that has built up on a harmonic balancer. TWO-TON HYDRAULIC ENGINE HOIST: A handy tool for testing the tensile strength of ground straps and fuel lines you may have forgotten to disconnect. 1/2 x 16-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A large motor mount prying tool that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end without the handle. PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used as a non-drifting drift to ALMOST align motor-mount holes. Can also be used, as the name implies, to round off Phillips screw heads. BATTERY ELECTROLYTE TESTER: A handy tool for transferring sulfuric acid from a car battery to the inside of your toolbox after determining that your battery is dead as a doornail, just as you thought. TROUBLE LIGHT: The mechanic's own tanning booth. Accurately called a "drop" light. It is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin," which is not otherwise found under automobiles at night. Health benefits aside, its main purpose is to consume 60-watt light bulbs at about the same rate that 105-mm howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat misleading. Makes a tinkling sound and a whisp of smoke when splashed with radiator coolant. AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty bolts last tightened 50 years ago by someone in Michigan or England and twists them off. PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part. TUBING CUTTER: A very accurate tool used to cut brake and fuel lines exactly 1/2 inch too short. 6-FOOT STEEL TAPE: A long slender steel ribbon with inch marks. Steel tapes ALWAYS break-away and bend downwards just before you reach the point to which you are measuring. BEAM-TYPE TORQUE WRENCH: A long tool used for precisely tightening nuts and bolts. Chief characteristic of using = The handle will ALWAYS contact firewall or fender-well just BEFORE the required torque value is reached. CLICK-TYPE TORQUE WRENCH: A long tool used for precisely tightening nuts and bolts. May also be used as a very accurate and expensive BREAKER BAR BREAKER BAR: A long tool for loosening and tightning nuts and bolts. May substitute for TORQUE WRENCH. When used to tighten nuts and bolts, the rule of thumb is "Thighten Until It Strips - Then Back It Off 1/4 Turn".

Thats a sweet bike- is there a columbus bike racing board or anything like that? About 15 20s-30s guys and girls on bikes passed me about 3 weeks ago on riverside drive. There was a time I would have bought that thing from you- unfortunately it was the same time I bought an engagement ring for the wife- if she would have said no, crotch rocket it was.... 5 years later married with no bike but a damn fast car.