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Yes I have the MAF, I would rather not seperate the elbow from the Throttle body.

Chain or belt...

I personally like a correctly sized single. Simplicity. a pair of t3/t4 hybrids on a stock 5.0 would be laggy. An automatic takes care of lag. I'm a big fan of P-trim turbines with a 60-64mm comp wheel on stock 5.0's. Full boost by 3,000 or less depending on AR and they make plenty of power to break the stock block. We've tuned a lot of different turbo combinations and this is always my favorite.

BBK power plus 75mm thottle body with Elbow for Fox intake on a SN95. The elbow has been heavily ported. $200 for both. SCT BA2800 MAF in a 4" steel tube (9" long), perfect for a blowthrough or drawthrough turbo setup - no flange so you can use couplers on both sides. This MAF supports 650+ RWHP. Element will drop into a stock 90mm housing. $130 Thanks, Rob

About time....

Would you bet your life on that? I wouldnt...

It was on my SN95 turbo car for the last 2 years in blowthrough. It could be used in draw through as well. It's just in a 4" steel tube instead of the plastic housing.

You also need to swap input shafts or pilot bearings, the pilot area on the input for the 4 cylinder T5 is smaller in diameter than the 5.0's.

I'll take some pictures. I just re-made the brackets this week. I used to have an auto tensioner on it.

When will you have the money? I don't like shipping things, so I would rather wait and sell it locally. I'm not in a huge rush.

You can do it with a reverse rotation pump, I just made the brackets for mine. You don't have much wrap on the WP but it works fine. I used part of a stock SN95 bracket and made an upper bracket and adjuster.

As it says, SCT BA2800 MAF. It comes in a steel 4" tube for a blowthrough setup, however you can put the sensor in any 90mm ford MAF housing. Good for 650+ rwhp. $150

All the cheap ones use that sensor, the expensive ones are expensive because of the NTK sensor.

Sam. Zietronix. I use a laptop and log boost, AFR, RPM, and MAF voltage every pass. No calibration, accurate as can be for a cheap wideband. If you want to see it in action, yell. You can get a display that shows 4 parameters as well. The dual channel doesnt matter anyway because you need to use it in the downpipe, 02 sensors don't work correctly in a pressurized system (headers under boost). I installed one of the FAST units on a customers SRT8 and I didnt like it all that much. A wideband on any high powered car is a must. Things can happen that your are unaware of, fuel filters clog, one pump could die, regulators fail. You need data if you want the car to live.

You should be able to find a shortblock for nothing. There is a complete T-bird in delaware (they have a 5.0 HO motor) for $400.

Thats a lot of money into a junk set of pistons, I dont know that there is even enough material to fly cut them and still have them be strong enough to do what he wants.

New pistons are only $37 each at jegs... You just need to be sure the rods and crank between the E6 and E7 motors are the same. Those might not be E6 pistons but they for sure are not the standard E7 5.0 HO pistons.

Uhhhh Those are not the right pistons for that motor at all. There are no valve reliefs. at least put a set of correct 5.0HO pistons in it. Don't re-use those.

Marcus meets! Those days where a lot of fun.

Get ahold of Lenny at Ultimate convert concepts. He is good. Mine drives *almost* like stock until you get into the throttle.

Doh!

:( :(

I had a LOT of fun doing things like that at MCIR in my truck. 11.0's there was faster than most of the trailer cars.

Do you have any more videos from that night? I miss my Lightning

Yep. It sucks putting a clutch on a Mod with longtubes. You have to drop the K-member, remove headers, install K-member, install clutch, remove K-member and reinstall headers.