rl

When the car is on the ground, what angle are the control arms at? do they sit higher in the front than they do in the back? If not they should, sometimes when cars are to low you have to drop the rear LCA mount a few inches, they have brackets to do this on F-body's but noone makes them for mustangs (That I have seen). I don't think that would cause a bushing failure like that though...that just looks like a cheap bushing.

We just got the converter lock-up working so we'll get better numbers after tomorrow, but we'll be able to see what it does on the track tomorrow so that wont matter much. The car pulls very strong until 5700-5800 on the street, its still got a few small issues (like it doesnt have an exhaust) but we'll fix all that after norwalk. Not bad considering it was thrown together in 2 evenings/nights this last week.

Thats the converter, its a fairly loose converter. Its tough to keep it from downshifting so the pulls are short and odd looking because they start so high. We rev it to 5700, we just didnt on that pull.

Its always been a GN motor. I think its one of the only GN/Fbody swaps with GN heads instead of TTA heads as well.

Its a 86 Buick grand national motor with basic bolt on stuff and a little bit larger turbo than stock.

Its soon to be snomobile time.

Explain the procedure you used when you installed the oil pump. Did you center the rotor in the housing with feeler gauges? Make sure you are using the correct pickup tube o-ring for the pump and tube you are using. Does the oil look frothy on the dipstick? if so odds are you have a leak around the pickup tube. From there I would check the mating surfaces of the oil pump to the block, it is a mached surface and any imperfections will cause a leak. The only other thing I could think of is if you have the oil drainback from the heads blocked, but you would be getting a LOT of oil out of your breathers. That would be pretty hard to do though. Pull a breather off and look in the valvecover with the car running, it will be easy enough to see.

Give me a call I can help you out. I've built/tuned my fair share of turbocharged fords. I even drive one everyday.

If you want it to be as strong as a built 12 bolt, and have it fabricated to fit the car, then yes, I would assume it would be. It would take some time to fabricate a torque arm mount for the 8.8, not to mention width issues and control arm mounts. Then there is custom caliper brackets and brake lines.

I honestly would suggest a 9" or a moser/strange 12 bolt. There won't be any money saved by fabbing the 8.8 in and building the rear end to be as strong as a 12 bolt.

I have a 95 shortblock @ the shop for $250

You can use spark plug anti-foulers that space the sensor out of the pipe about a half inch. They sell them in the help section at most parts places. Or you can flash the computer etc, but you already know that. All the EEC is looking for is a change from the front 02's to the rear 02's in oxygen content.

I use a craftsman handiclamp (the bar clamps) they work really well and dont mar the wastegate. It's pretty hard to mess up, you can handle it without a problem.

Those are SAE numbers as well (thats what we always use). His STD numbers where 442/409

I like the Mcleod street twin disks for higher HP vettes, they cost more but are very very streetable, like stock pedal effort and not grabby at all, and hold a TON of power. It takes care of the clutch/flywheel in one purchase as well.

Has the car been on a 4 wheel rack yet Brian? We can tune all of the movement out with the suspension setup you have...

I know you dont want a convertable but the SN95 convertables dont have any "normal" convertable issues and they can be had for under $5k. There is a stock auto 95 convert on craigs list right now for $4300 with 75k miles. They ar much nicer to drive than the coupes. I wouldnt touch a fox vert with a 10ft pole on the other hand.

:heart:

I drive my car EVERYDAY rain or shine and it out-traps and out ET's you Anthony. WHAT NOW!!!

But not as drunk as he was. His show was fucking horrible.

Thanks. Its a disgrace - I havent raced it all year. I will before it gets cold.

You where all over the place. I havent raced there in years for that reason and many others.

Thanks Guys!

The only time I've seen gains are when the intercooler is WAY undersized or the engine is ingesting some of the nitrous off the intercooler sprayer (most common). For water to work effectivly the intercooler would have to be hot enough to cause the water to transfer to vapor relativly quickly, otherwise you wont see much of a gain (it removes energy when its goes through a phase transfer) otherwise it wont take much heat out at all.