rl

Does the car still roll OK? Does it go in/out of gear? It sounds like the transmission let go, shouldnt the warranty from the dealer cover that?

There is always someone faster.

No. KTHXBYE! Well shit, I guess mario is on here, and maybe a few other "big" hitters.

Lightweight brakes and wheels make a HUGE difference on those, and its all unsprung weight. Those motors wont hold up to that kind of abuse on a regular basis, its only a matter of time before they start to break.

I just got mine done a few months ago from last winter, lol.

A tree and a chain. It's free. Anywhere will charge $500+ just to put it on a frame rack.

At that level there is a HUGE difference between 2400lbs and 3000lbs. Granted, it is still very impressive to run that fast in anything.

Very true, but regardless a time-sert leaves the correct seat for the plug and is stronger. That said, thousands and thousands of vehicles are on the road with time-serts that where done with heads installed without issue.

The correct repair is to use a time-sert, you generally dont heli-coil those. The repair is done with the head ON the engine. http://cgi.ebay.com/TIME-SERT-FORD-TRITON-M14x1-25-SPARK-PLUG-REPAIR_W0QQitemZ220043984277QQihZ012QQcategoryZ303QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I was in the tens last year, deep tens. Fuck, it took this year for the half you guys to catch my pick-up trucks time's.

Sounds good.

I have 2 of them at the shop in delaware, there all yours. Give me a call and you can come get them. (740) 971-4901 Rob

The 93's have the same shortblock as the 94/95's. They arent all that weak, the shortblock that is in your car made 70+ passes at 11.0@120+ and was boosted for 5 years and 50k miles with a KB.

I couldnt imagine trying to do it with just a engine lift on jack stands. That wouldnt be a good time.

With a 351 you gotta drop the K-member with that pan. Craddle brace makes it easy.

How high of heat?

Sizing a single turbo with more CI becomes difficult, you have to go to a large frame on a motor that would make 500rwhp NA. At that point packaging (aka, hanging a 60lbs turbo) becomes an issue for a street car. Granted you could undersize the turbo and destroy the motor/turbo in short order, but what fun is that. If you go to a larger CI engine the best option would be a twin setup (like 35's). Spool up and a broad powerband with a larger single isnt an issue if its set up correctly. I have a large frame 88 with a 1.06 exhaust housing on my "tiny" 357 and I see full boost in higher gears by 3500 or so. Granted in first it doesnt do much (its a 5 speed car). With an automatic and the correct converter it would be an issue at all.

ditto. Amsoil syncromesh = sex to tremecs.

The OEM cable will be the strongest (A new one of course) and you dont really need an adjustable cable. The UPR quadrant and adjuster work well.

Yeah, ditch the MSD stuff, run a stock ignition and the problems will go away.

Thats how I knew who it was, lol.

I assumed it was scott, thats his old accord, no?

Scott.

I have one you can have. You gotta come get it though (I dont get out much).

I'll sell you a TI-85 for $20.